Driving up to Idaho (from Utah) this past weekend my motor took a **** in my 92 LX. Not sure WTF the problem is but I expect I burned off a valve and shot it out the exhaust. Details:

-Compression: 1=0, 2=160, 3=160, 4=160. Gauge won't move at all on cylinder 1.
-370k origional miles on this beast lol
-Runs, I limped it along on 3 cylinders for ~150 miles. Ate about 4-5 quarts of oil though.

I plan on taking the valve cover off Friday as I have the day off and I'll be done w/ exams by then. Hopefully that'll show me a little somethin.

Anyone know what the exact variant of F22 is in my car? A? or B? or what?

Anyone know where a good place to source good, reliable F22 motors for a good price? Thanks guys !

 

Sorry to hear about your engine dude, sounds like it at least had a nice long run though!

To answer your question, you have an f22a1 in your 92 lx. I bet you're likely to find a nice f22 for sale right here on HT from someone who has swapped in an H22.

good luck!

 

Thanks for the info .

How hard is a H22 swap? Also, are any of the other F22 variants plug and play? e.g. could I use a F22 out of a late 90's accord and it plug in and be just fine into my current wiring? I am sure I'd need ECU, but would any re-pinning be required or anything?

Hell, I have been makin my MR2 fast, maybe I'll drop a little coin into this Accord, haha.

 

Bah Prop! You now made me start looking into making this a quick little car, lol.

From, what I can see if I get an OBD1 H22a, I can use all my stock motor mounts and everything from my 4th gen Accord and no repinning is needed, just use my F22 harness and then the H22a ECU and motor? I haven't looked heavily into this, but that's how it seems from a few qucik searches.

Is the F22a4 and a6 plug and play with my current F22a1? Will I need the ECU or can I just use the ECU I have now as well as all my stock wiring, etc.?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PearlJammzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From, what I can see if I get an OBD1 H22a, I can use all my stock motor mounts and everything from my 4th gen Accord and no repinning is needed, just use my F22 harness and then the H22a ECU and motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need to add the VTEC & Intake Air Bypass (IAB) wires to your F22A1 harness to run the H22 and P13 ECU properly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PearlJammzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the F22a4 and a6 plug and play with my current F22a1? Will I need the ECU or can I just use the ECU I have now as well as all my stock wiring, etc.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The A4 & the A6 do not use the same intake manifolds. You will require the wiring of IAB's to run the A6 motor & a PT6 ECU.

The Swap threads in the FAQs will tell you what you need to wire up and what you can get away with removing.

For example some people completely remove the IAB plate from the H22 & A6 manifolds. Or you could actuate them without the use of the ECU by connecting them strait to a vacuum source on the manifold.

If you do some more reading into H swaps you will see that there are some little tips and tricks out there that you can do.

Here's to lots of reading & research

 

Ya, I have been digging through them since my first post and seems there are many ways to go about it all. Found a CB7 board that has a lot of info too which is nice (since it's car-specific).

Still haven't read if the A4 will plug right in and work w/o modification in place of the A1. Anyone know? The A6 was some special EX-R motor or SE edition motor, and the A4 appears to be the EX model motor, and the LX/DX models got the A1. If I go this route, I'll prob. get the A1 if I can find it. In case I can't, but can find the A4 easily (for example), then I'll do that (assuming it's not a lot of hassle).

 

how did the car drive like the last 150 miles?

 

Liek ***, no power below 3500 RPM's, chugged getting up there. If I kept it about 4k it smoothed out a lot. Consumed 4 quarts of oil in that 150 miles, would wanna die and sometimes did when I had to come to a stop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PearlJammzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Liek ***, no power below 3500 RPM's, chugged getting up there. If I kept it about 4k it smoothed out a lot. Consumed 4 quarts of oil in that 150 miles, would wanna die and sometimes did when I had to come to a stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

atleast you made it, towing 150 would have sucked!!!!!!!