So my buddy has a 97 SH that had the timing belt snap with 62,xxx on the odometer. We ended up pulling the motor (which by the way, the motor VIN didnt match the car VIN and he bought this as a Honda certified car.). We basically tore it apart to to the bare block, and tore a little of the head apart but left the valve train. Since then, about years ago, it has been sitting in pieces in his garage. So Im thinking about buying his car with motor in piece for a couple grand and throwing a full head from ebay or something on the block. Just so I I dont have to mess with any bent valves or warped head.

Anyway, the number 3 cylinder has a scratch in it about 3/4" long and you can feel it with your finger nail. Do you think this can be honed out and still use the stock pistons?

Another thing I am wondering is what all that I should replace. I mean I figured I would replace the headgasket (obvisouly) and head studs. But what other critical compents should I replace while the engine is apart? Oil pump? Rod Bearings?

I'm also worried about other things I might have to do that are beyond my knowledge. Does the crank have to be balanced or any other little things like that? The timing balancer belt system kinda scres me too, I guess because the B-series dont have it. Does anything special need to be done with that?

I dont have much internal experience. I installed a JDM B18C into my EK civic, but never got too far inside of it. The only experience I have is tearing apart this H22. I figure this would be a good cheap project to learn on. Is there any type Of rebuild manual floating around for the H22? I have the Helms.

Anyway, any info you guys could provide would be great.

 

It will be difficult to find a shop that can hone the FRM sleeves properly...you might look for a used block.

I would get a complete gasket kit and use as much new stuff as you can when you put it back together. You're of course going to need the head gasket, IM gaskets, TB gaskets, o-rings, etc etc etc and it's good to have everything just in case. Water pump and oil pump are a good idea for sure while the engine is already apart.

The crank, pistons, rods should all be balanced. I would not worry about the balancer belt...you can even leave it off without issues. It's there for comfort, and not having it doesn't make a lot of difference. If you want it in it is a bit of a pain to get the shafts lined up right.

IMO I would look for a block for sale and take your current head to a machine shop and have it checked out.

Helms manual should have most everything you need

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will be difficult to find a shop that can hone the FRM sleeves properly...you might look for a used block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm really trying to spend a minimul amount of money. Excuse my newbness, but what does FRM mean?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The crank, pistons, rods should all be balanced. </TD></TR></TABLE>

...As in, they should already be balanced and nothing should have to be done with them?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would not worry about the balancer belt...you can even leave it off without issues. It's there for comfort, and not having it doesn't make a lot of difference. If you want it in it is a bit of a pain to get the shafts lined up right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it common for people to leave the belt off? Theres nothign else that needs to be done; just put everythign back the way it was minus the belt?

Thanks for all of the input, btw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c1v1c98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm really trying to spend a minimul amount of money. Excuse my newbness, but what does FRM mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

FRM is Fiber Reinforced Matrix (or Metal?) and it is what the sleeves are made of in the H-series engines. Difficult to hone and also not compatible with any forged pistons due to different expansion rates of the materials.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c1v1c98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...As in, they should already be balanced and nothing should have to be done with them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, they should be balanced stock, but if you are going to balance stuff you want to check all those parts for equal weight since you're already at that point.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c1v1c98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it common for people to leave the belt off? Theres nothign else that needs to be done; just put everythign back the way it was minus the belt?

Thanks for all of the input, btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very common There are even kits to remove the shafts and close up all the oil passages. I have mine removed as do MANY people on this site alone. Usually people do it as a performance modification or to make engine install & maintenance easier. You just leave the belt off if you like.

No problem

 

If you want to rebuild, you must look through and use the service manual. Download it from http://www.spoonhonda.com .

Your cylinders must be overbored because of the scratch. You'll need to use the .25mm oversize Honda pistons.

If you want to have your machine shop bore/hone your block these are the stones that should be used during the honing process JHU-623 (200 grit) and finishing stone JHU-818 (400 grit). The other specs are in the helms. I'd recommend sending the block to either Golden Eagle in California or Don Flores in Florida. They're both very good and can machine FRM properly for sure. You'll spend an extra $100-150 because of shipping, but it's well worth it cosidering how important the honing procedure is.

You should replace all the bearings (main and rod) and the oil pump, water pump, etc. You really need to look at the helms to understand how which bearing colors use should be using.

More than likely, your valves got bent because of the timing belt that broke. So those will need to be replaced, and you'll have to have the valve seats recut.

I'd leave the balance shafts. They only cost you about 2whp, and it's not really worth it to remove them unless this is a dedicated race car. Definitely not worth paying/buying parts to eliminate them..imho.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine in my 98 SH, and I know the parts and machining cost total for both the head and block will be at least $1250-1500.

Buy your parts from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com . They're a Honda dealer and sell oem parts at 30% off list. Really makes a difference when you buy $1000 worth of parts.

The two most essential tools you need are the service manual and a good torque wrench (eg. Snap-on). There's nothing particularly complicated about a rebuild, but you need to be meticulous, and you must have a clean workspace to work in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c1v1c98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm really trying to spend a minimul amount of money. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If the car has that few miles, I'm assuming it's in good condition. If so, don't cheap out on it. Save up money first, then fix the car. Nothing worse than a half-azzed rebuild. Not saying you will do this, but there are WAAAY too many Honda guys who do it that way.

Anyway, here's what I would do. I would part out the good parts from the H22 longblock you currently have. Then buy a Type S longblock from a reputable vendor and swap it in. You might be surprised how inexpensive it can be if you do it that way.

I've done 2 swaps; One H22 into my Si and an SR20DET swap into my 240SX. Both swaps turned out costing MUCH less after I parted the H23 and KA24E out and got fully assembled H22 and SR20 swaps.

Just my recommendation. I think this way will actually end up being the least stressful and cheapest option for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If the car has that few miles, I'm assuming it's in good condition. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The exterior is actually in pretty crappy condition. Well, the body is good as far a dents go, but the paint is jacked. Half of the car looks like primer red and half looks decent. And there is clearcoat peeling on the rear bumper. I am assuming it has something to do with it being a florida car, but I dont know. The interior is in good condtion, tho. The car has been sitting for 3-4 years also.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyway, here's what I would do. I would part out the good parts from the H22 longblock you currently have. Then buy a Type S longblock from a reputable vendor and swap it in. You might be surprised how inexpensive it can be if you do it that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is the Type S block the same as the SH block? Just wondering if the ATTS stuff and SH trans will bolt right up. I have actually been looking for a long block today. Any good sites to source one? Hmotors is only showing a complete swap

Trust me, I have no plans to make this a ghetto build, just trying to save money where I can.

And thank you vinuneuro for that info as well.

 

Type-S is the same as SH, only 1pt higher compression and different cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Type-S is the same as SH, only 1pt higher compression and different cams. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I see.

The Type S swap on Hmotors says it comes with the LSD tranny. I thought the SH didnt have an LSD tranny because of the ATTS?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c1v1c98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought the SH didnt have an LSD tranny because of the ATTS</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correcto.