I have never tracked my car on stock REAR brake pads so Im not really sure how they will hold up. I finally toasted the couple-year-old EBC green stuffs I had in the rear at E8 and need something sufficient for the rear for track days. will stock be ok or should I look at something else? im not really looking to spend much, just wanna have something sufficient.

currently running newest compound GTSports in the front and the car is basically stock.

 

I remember penpen running stock rears with specVR's up front without issue.

i posted a vid on here of her absolutely walking away from me at Pacific Raceways a couple years ago with that set-up.
*chix CAN drive

 

Auto Zone 20.00 , Lasted 5 events.

Switched to the Napa 35.00 mid-grade. I'll keep you posted.

OEM has worked well in the rear for my cars.


I run Cobalt xr3's, vr's, Carbotech 1109's or Hawks

 

good to know thanks

 

I ran Cobalt GTSports in the front, and stocks in the rear at Expo. Next time I go to the track I'll be running GTSports all around, but I didn't have the money to order more than just the fronts.

BTW, I've only been to the track once, so I don't know about how well they held up, but I didn't have issues with braking, other than my lack of wanting to brake at all.

 

ive done 2 events with stock rears and the car is daily driven, haven't had any issues,

 

You'll be fine with GTS front and stock rear for now. just do GTS when feel you need them.

-Victor

 

I've always ran stock rears....

 

stock rears here and they held up fine under 150-100mph stops repeatedly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tartje &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock rears here and they held up fine under 150-100mph stops repeatedly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ryan sorry for thread jacking, but I've always noticed at high speeds (120-130) the car brakes different, car not necessarily shaking...just not as smooth. Could it be the ABS I'm feeling? The rotors "look" fine, but I guess it could be them slightly warped after about 80,000 miles unchanged?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ryan sorry for thread jacking, but I've always noticed at high speeds (120-130) the car brakes different, car not necessarily shaking...just not as smooth. Could it be the ABS I'm feeling? The rotors "look" fine, but I guess it could be them slightly warped after about 80,000 miles unchanged?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its time for some new rotors my friend. I can't believe you have 80K miles on an original set of rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its time for some new rotors my friend. I can't believe you have 80K miles on an original set of rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol yea.... I guess it is time. Now do I want some bling slotted or drilled rotors, or do I want some nice autozone rotors lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol yea.... I guess it is time. Now do I want some bling slotted or drilled rotors, or do I want some nice autozone rotors lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stay away from drilled.
Get slotted from a reputable company if you want some bling.
Cheap AutoZone blanks work just as good for less $$.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ryan sorry for thread jacking, but I've always noticed at high speeds (120-130) the car brakes different, car not necessarily shaking...just not as smooth. Could it be the ABS I'm feeling? The rotors "look" fine, but I guess it could be them slightly warped after about 80,000 miles unchanged?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It could mean many of things.... I doubt you want to see the long list

 

Tootz.... where are you doing 120-130 mph at if you aren't on track?

2AM Japanese Science experiments on I-95?

I'm all for cruising around 85-90, but those are some speeds for even the highway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It could mean many of things.... I doubt you want to see the long list </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea you can save me that lol....I am 99% sure its just the rotors...I'll replace and find out shortly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tootz.... where are you doing 120-130 mph at if you aren't on track?

2AM Japanese Science experiments on I-95?

I'm all for cruising around 85-90, but those are some speeds for even the highway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, No! The car traps 130 mph at the strip....Don't hate though because I dragged it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


lol, No! The car traps 130 mph at the strip....Don't hate though because I dragged it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never, glad to hear you're doing those speeds in a safe place bro

 

Cobalt GTS fronts, OEM stock rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ryan sorry for thread jacking, but I've always noticed at high speeds (120-130) the car brakes different, car not necessarily shaking...just not as smooth. Could it be the ABS I'm feeling? The rotors "look" fine, but I guess it could be them slightly warped after about 80,000 miles unchanged?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's probably NOT the ABS; if you go into the ABS, you should feel the pedal pulsing.

It's probably that there are uneven deposits of brake pad material on the surface of the rotors. Read these technical white papers on the Stoptech website:

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures

You can try bedding the brakes as noted there. Make sure that, after you get them nice and hot, you don't touch the brakes AT ALL on the way home till you get the car parked and it sits overnight.

The normal criterion for when rotors need replacing is when they reach the spec for minimum thickness. Since the fronts do the majority of the braking, it is most likely the fronts that are causing the rough feel, not the rear. The front rotors are 23 mm thick when new, and the minimum thickness is 21 mm. (The corresponding numbers for rear rotors are 9 mm and 8 mm, respectively.)



Modified by nsxtasy at 5:39 PM 10/9/2008

 

spec vr's up front and stock or gt sports in the rear.

 

I ran Hawk Blues up front and stock rears for a few events. On old Azenis 215's.

While I don't suggest Hawk Blues at all, the combination performance wise wasn't an issue.

 

stock pads on the rear.....however my brembo rotors with a little over 400 miles are pretty much trash
Can´t even think w00t will happen when i install the hawk dtc-60 in the front

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've always ran stock rears....</TD></TR></TABLE>