I did a B16 swap in my Si hatch and everything seems to be ok but after the car has been on for about 5 minutes the #14 fuse blows and the car will shut off. But as soon as I put another fuse in, it starts right up.

I checked the voltage to battery and its at 14 volts. So I know the the battery power hasn't spiked up causing it to blow.

I started the car and pulled the negative cable off the battery and the car stays on. So Im guessing the alternator is good.

If anyone can help with some input it would be much appreciated.
My car is pretty much done after this.

Here is a pic of what Im working with. Thanks.



Modified by dubs97integ at 4:21 PM 10/6/2008

 

bump for using a stock intake. factory looks best!

 

14 amps???

Dont you mean 14 volts?

OBD1 or OBD0?

You may want to check the amp draw across the fuse in question with a meter...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaggyeg6si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for using a stock intake. factory looks best!</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gunmetal_B20_Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">14 amps???

Dont you mean 14 volts?

OBD1 or OBD0?

You may want to check the amp draw across the fuse in question with a meter... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry I did mean volts. I edited that.

Im running OBD0 with PR3

Now, how exactly do I check the amp draw? I do have a multimeter.

Thanks for info. Keep this up.

 

Fuse # 14 controls the following:
Voltage Regulator (IG)
Emission control solenoid valves
PGFI main relay
PGFI-FI ECU (IG1)
Fuel Pump
ELD unit
EACV

Is your fuel pump stock or aftermarket?
{Aftermarket have been known to blow the fuse}

You might have the alternator tested..
If it is overcharging,it will pop the fuse..
Also:Make sure all electrical connections are tight..

 

i see you are tucked...maybe there is a short or loose connection heating up. where are your engine grounds?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuse # 14 controls the following:
Voltage Regulator (IG)
Emission control solenoid valves
PGFI main relay
PGFI-FI ECU (IG1)
Fuel Pump
ELD unit
EACV

Is your fuel pump stock or aftermarket?
{Aftermarket have been known to blow the fuse}

You might have the alternator tested..
If it is overcharging,it will pop the fuse..
Also:Make sure all electrical connections are tight..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a stock fuel pump. Is there a way to test the alternator without taking it off the motor?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see you are tucked...maybe there is a short or loose connection heating up. where are your engine grounds?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, we did a minor tuck. Sorry, the pic was taken before we made the grounds. I have one from the tranny to the chassis and the other from the valve cover to the chassis. oh and the one on the thermostat has been grounded inside the car. Does it have to be grounded to the thermostat?

Thanks guys.

 

YGPM

EDIT: Maybe a dumb question, but what size fuse are you putting in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gunmetal_B20_Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YGPM

EDIT: Maybe a dumb question, but what size fuse are you putting in? </TD></TR></TABLE>

10 amp fuse

 

if you have a good battery ground to the chassis, your thermostat ground in the car should be ok, assuming the wires are thick enough and you are touching metal and not paint.
also, i would check your resistance on the EACV and the solenoids...something on that circuit is killing you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a good battery ground to the chassis, your thermostat ground in the car should be ok, assuming the wires are thick enough and you are touching metal and not paint.
also, i would check your resistance on the EACV and the solenoids...something on that circuit is killing you</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea the grounds are on metal, i used 0 gauge wire for the grounds too.
what is the EACV and how do I test it?

 

Bumping this back to the top because I havent found a solution yet...

 

BUMP

 

so yeah man, how'd this one turn out?

 

so i have a question. with the alternator plug not connected, when i turn the key to ACC, i get no dash lights. When i plug the ALT back in, it blows the fuse when turned to acc.

I have a wire tuck, with an obd2 alt. what voltage do the wires need to read?

Mine, with the key to the on position are

12.5 0.0

12.5 4.5 (wireside)

What is the difference in wire position from obd0 to obd2?