Is there a write up for the 91 civic si lower ball joint removal. I saw the 92 and up one, is it the same. Has anyone done it them selves? I want to try it but i want to know what i'm getting my self into.

Thanks
Robbie

 

http://s168.photobucket.com/al...I.flv

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

 

thanks for those postes, informative. But after you seperate it, how does the ball joint get removed from the knuckle. do i have to remove the struts as well and drive axel??
thanks

 

I would remove the knuckle completely.

so..

1. loosen axle nut
2. separate the outer tie rod. (loosen the nut all the way so that you can use a hammer on the
bottom of it without damaging the threads)
3. separate the lower control arm
(i personally use a pitman arm puller but to each his own, no shock fork removal is required
again don't take the bolt all the way off to avoid damaging the threads)
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...=1752
4. Undo the bolts in the engine bay for the upper control arm (no point separating the upper ball
joint)
5. Remove the knuckle/upper arm assembly
6. Undo the C-clip holding the lower joint in then hammer it out
7. Install the new joint. (I would use a large socket to hammer it all the way in the hole)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichbsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would remove the knuckle completely.

so..

1. loosen axle nut
2. separate the outer tie rod. (loosen the nut all the way so that you can use a hammer on the
bottom of it without damaging the threads)
3. separate the lower control arm
(i personally use a pitman arm puller but to each his own, no shock fork removal is required
again don't take the bolt all the way off to avoid damaging the threads)
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...=1752
4. Undo the bolts in the engine bay for the upper control arm (no point separating the upper ball
joint)
5. Remove the knuckle/upper arm assembly
6. Undo the C-clip holding the lower joint in then hammer it out
7. Install the new joint. (I would use a large socket to hammer it all the way in the hole)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats how i did it.

 

You have to remove the axle to do it. You don't have a choice. Your best bet is to follow the instructions of 90civichbsi.

I did it at the same time I repalced my axles, bearings, tie rods and upgraded all bushings to Mugen. Is not that bad, but I did it in a climate controlled shop with air tools and hydraulic press.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgallagher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to remove the axle to do it. You don't have a choice. Your best bet is to follow the instructions of 90civichbsi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont remove the axle all the way though.. leave the tranny side connected so you dont lose any fluid

 

really? you loose the fluid? its manual, does that make a difference? i had both the drive axels replaced at different times, i don't know if they filled the fluid. Is there a dip stick to check? i guess i should look into that. Thanks for all that have helped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C00kiemunstr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really? you loose the fluid? its manual, does that make a difference? i had both the drive axels replaced at different times, i don't know if they filled the fluid. Is there a dip stick to check? i guess i should look into that. Thanks for all that have helped.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

With the car level and off the floor, take off the fill bolt and put your finger in there,
the fluid should be up to the hole. If not, fill it till it comes out and put the bolt back in.