i searched and ive replaced the motor and regulator for my 96 civic ex coupe passenger side window...im stumped!!! the window goes up but it doesnt no anything not even a click going down..like its completely dead..this does the same with the old motor and regulator..so its not the window or regulator..
oh and when u use the switch on the driver side to make the passenger side window go up..it doesnt work either way..up or down..

the only thing that works is the window going up from ONLY the passenger swwitch.

PLEASE help me!! TIA HONDA-TECH

 

bumpp i kno theirs sum1 out ther that kno their hondas!!!!

 

You've replaced both the motor and regulator with known good parts?

Have you checked out the switches? I don't know all that much about Hondas yet, but I know that window switches go bad (and the fact that it works in one direction but not the other indicates it's possible.) After all, they are right next to the windows....and it does rain from time to time.

(I'm going slow here, I don't know what you know.)

The way to check would be to disconnect the switch at the connector and check for continuity with a volt-ohm-meter. I think you just unscrew the one screw down in the pocket and pull the connector out. Unplug the switch. According to the manual, there should be five pins. I'm looking for the pin-out and circuit diagram now.

 

OK. The Haynes manual is actually pretty good on this.

The 5 connector switch on the pax door (looking at it) the pins are numbered left to right. 1-2-3-4-5.

When in "off" you should have continuity between pins 2 and 3, and between 4 and 5 (not 2,3,4 and 5, think two pairs, not 4 of a kind).

In "up", you should have continuity between 1 and 4, and 2 and 3.

in "down", you should have continuity between 1 and 3, and 4 and 5.

If you've never used a VOM before, for this you'll want to take the big **** to the continuity setting - this is typically depicted with a speaker symbol, but YMMV. Point is that when there's close to 0 ohms resistance between the two leads, the meter will put out a tone, so hold the leads together and turn the dial till you hear it.

Then test the switch (easier with someone to hold it) and see if you get tone like the above diagram.

There's a test for the master (driver's side) panel too, but this one's easier, so let's try that first.

 

thanks dude.. will try that right now..i really appereciate it..

 

No problem - let me know how it goes.

 

alright..i dont have a VOM but i do have a test light and i do not get any power wen the car is off..wen i turn the key on i get power from the green and black wire and i get power from 2 other wires..1 while holding the switch up and 1 holding the switch down... would u kno which wires (color) i should b getting power from using a test light? or will i need a VOM.. and i didnt understand wat u meant by "between pins 2 and 3 and between 4 and 5" do u mean if i had 2 test lights and checked 2 and 3 at the same time they would both light up?? im sorry for being a noob..lol

 

OK, long post coming, so hang in there.

No problem on the "noob" thing. We all start from nothing, it's where we finish up that matters.

OK, first of all, "continuity" is just a fancy term for "electrically connected."

Second, VOM is short for Volt-ohm-meter. That's actually an old geezer term any more, mostly they're called digital voltmeters now. Anyway, it's a really good investment for any electrical troubleshooting and will make this process a LOT easier. A cheap one shouldn't run you more than $20, and unless you're actually aligning electronic equipment, you don't need any more than that. I'm a professional with 25 years in the field, and 90% of the time, I'm either using a VOM to look for power, ground or continuity (and my last meter cost almost $2000 and doubles as an oscilloscope). My only suggestion for you is to make sure you get one with a setting that allows you to "hear" continuity (i.e. that the circuit is connected.)

For example of what to look for, here's a picture of the face of one I just pulled off the web:



See the little sound icon right below the diode icon at about the 6:30 clock face of the dial? That's what you want it to have.

Why you want it is simple - when set in that mode, the meter puts a trace voltage through the leads. When it sees current flow (i.e. when the circuit is connected between the leads), the meter beeps or buzzes or whatever to let you know. Very handy when you're upside down and sideways. You can test this by touching the two probes together - you should get a beep if you're in the right mode.

So, moving on.

I told you that so that this part makes sense - the tests I recommended are on the switch removed from the car - no voltage present. What you're looking for is if the switch still connects - in the down position, does it still physically connect the power input to the "down" circuit, and in the "up" position, to the "up" circuit?

The switch unit has a plug either on the back of it or on a pigtail connecting it to the rest of the car's systems. Disconnect the plug and look at the switch side of the connector.
(Man, this is hard to explain without a circuit diagram.)

You'll see 5 pins. Looking left to right, think of them as 1 through 5.

The tests in my other post work this way.

1.) Touch one probe on the first pin mentioned (like in the first test, pin 2), making sure you're touching metal on that pin and only that pin.

2.) then with your other hand, put the other probe on the second pin mentioned (in the first test, pin 3), again making sure you're only touching the metal of that pin and NOT the other probe.

3.) Then listen. If you get a tone from your meter, there's a circuit there (you have continuity.) If you don't, the switch is broken. Then check the other three pins - you should hear nothing from the meter. If you do, then the circuit is going somewhere it shouldn't, and the switch is broken. But if it responds like the book said, you've passed the test, so move on to the next set of pins.... and repeat until you're done with all six sets (you'll probably need someone to hold the switch in the up and down settings....)

That should tell you something for sure.

And according to Haynes, the green/black is the constant power (i.e. from the car). The blue/white and blue/red are out to the motor, so they should only have power going through them when the window motor is operating. The other two (blue/yellow and blue/orange) go over to the master switch in the driver's side door. Same deal there, they should only have power when the switch on the other side is operating.

Oh, and to use your brand spanky new VOM to test for voltage, you would hook up the switch and do what's called "backprobing" the motor connector. No, that's not obscene.

First of all, think of BOTH motor leads as different positive leads - the way a DC motor works, if you run power in one direction, it rotates in one direction, and if you run it in the OTHER direction, it rotates in the other direction. Anyway, set the meter to the 20 DCV (DC Volt) setting. Get a couple of large straight pins (T-pins are your friend) and a set of alligator jumpers from Radio Shack (like these) Grab the pins with the clips and hook up to the meter. Push the two pins into the back of the MOTOR connecter and make sure you're touching metal. Don't be touching the metal with your hands. Turn on the car, push the switch in both directions. You should get NOTHING in the neutral position, +12 in one, and -12 in the other position (which way depends on which way you hooked it up.)

And yes, you can do the same voltage test with the test light too.... but my way is much cooler.

And if this switch checks out, we can test the other side the same way too..... but there's a lot more pins to that one, so it might be easier to check for voltage than for continuity. So just reach over and try it - should get similar results.

Oh, one thought on the driver's side switch. Does your vehicle have the "child window lock" switch like my sedan does? If that has failed open, that would explain that.... but then you shouldn't be able to operate it in EITHER direction from either switch.

And also, just to confirm.... the driver's side window works OK? Does it do the "auto down" thing too? And finally, when you say "regulator" what do you mean? The schematic shows a "window control unit", but that just applies to the driver's side window. (That's how you get the automatic down - that's why I asked.)

The reason why your test light results may be confusing is this - the whole thing is supposed to ground through the master switch in the driver's side door.

In the neutral position, power gets to the switch through the green/black wire, but should go nowhere.

With the switch in the down position, power runs from the car through the green/black wire, into the switch, out the blue/white wire, to the motor, back from the motor on the blue/red wire, back into the switch, to the blue/yellow wire, over to the driver's side, through THAT switch and then the master cutoff/child switch to the black ground wire on that side.

In the up position, again, green/black to the switch, then blue/red out to the motor, blue/white (backwards flow, remember) back to the switch, then the blue/orange over to the driver's side and black to ground.

Running it from the driver's side, power comes in from that side switch via the blue/yellow or blue/orange wires (depending on which way) then back to the driver's side via the other (for blue/yellow, the return is blue/orange and visa versa.)

Well.... that's if the color codes in the Haynes manual are right. I suppose I should buy the electrical diagrams from Helms, but haven't come up with the coin yet.

So there you go.... lots of stuff to try. Looking back on the above, I think I would try the voltage test first, since it doesn't involve removing the switch, but it's up to you. Either should show you a failure if any, and doing both is good backup.

Good luck! Let me know how it goes.

 

this is great.this is the best help i could possibly ask for!!! i am going to have to try this when i get back from class..if not then saturday..thank you so much!!!

 

Well, lets see if it works first

Trick is not to be afraid of it - have fun and good luck!

 

sopunds like a switch prob

 

is the switch bad