My car blows bluish-white smokes when i go to downshift or "race" the car.


Whats exactly is the cause of this and what can i do to get rid of it.

Thanks

 

Have you done a compression check? Mine does this to and my compression

is 240 in all cycinders im going to replace the rings and valve seals.

 

Could be piston rings or valve stem seals.

 

is this going to put a hole in my wallet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spintboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this going to put a hole in my wallet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your paying someone to do the labour then yeah.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your paying someone to do the labor then yeah.</TD></TR></TABLE> Yea it will.

 

My poor R motor.


Anyone know what the cause of this might be, like why it happend in the first place?


I kept up with all my maintence, and i RARLEY race my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spintboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My poor R motor.


Anyone know what the cause of this might be, like why it happend in the first place?


I kept up with all my maintence, and i RARLEY race my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it can happen due to mileage and age. if you think about it, the motor is or almost is 10 years old depending what year R-motor you have. the valve seals will eventually crap out cuz they're just rubber essentially.

it's not too hard to change if you have the correct tools for the job (ie: the correct type of 'pliers' to pull the seals out, compressed air to keep the valves up while you remove retainers/keeps and then the valvesprings.) if you take the head off, then it's a bit a of a bitch trying to get the leverage to compress the valve springs (once again, you'll need special tools like a valvespring compressor).

don't mix up the valve seals too if you're buying OEM Honda. they are specific for Intake and Exhaust side (difference durometer rubber i think?).

if you're changing the rings, you'll have to send the block out to a machine shop at the very least and get the cylinder walls honed.

so yah, this will cost you a fair chunk of change in the end....

 

oh, and here's a pic of the tools used when i did mine:



metal brace is for the valvespring compressor tool to get leverage on, and the tube is shooting compressed air into the cylinder to keep the valves from dropping (which would suck MAJOR *** if they did). all snap-on stuff, but i think there are cheaper alternatives out there.

 

You may have a bad oil control piston ring, the third piston ring. A compression test wouldn't find this problem because it isn't used for compression like the top 2 rings. Good luck finding out what is causing it, blue smoke means your burning oil so check seals and valve seating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2004es2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may have a bad oil control piston ring, the third piston ring. A compression test wouldn't find this problem because it isn't used for compression like the top 2 rings. Good luck finding out what is causing it, blue smoke means your burning oil so check seals and valve seating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hes right I have the same tool. I never tried doing it with the head on the motor I think it would be hard because the keepers can move on you plus when you press down the valve stems what do you use a super deep 12 mm socket ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it can happen due to mileage and age. if you think about it, the motor is or almost is 10 years old depending what year R-motor you have. the valve seals will eventually crap out cuz they're just rubber essentially.

it's not too hard to change if you have the correct tools for the job (ie: the correct type of 'pliers' to pull the seals out, compressed air to keep the valves up while you remove retainers/keeps and then the valvesprings.) if you take the head off, then it's a bit a of a bitch trying to get the leverage to compress the valve springs (once again, you'll need special tools like a valvespring compressor).

don't mix up the valve seals too if you're buying OEM Honda. they are specific for Intake and Exhaust side (difference durometer rubber i think?).

if you're changing the rings, you'll have to send the block out to a machine shop at the very least and get the cylinder walls honed.

so yah, this will cost you a fair chunk of change in the end....</TD></TR></TABLE>
that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it can happen due to mileage and age. if you think about it, the motor is or almost is 10 years old depending what year R-motor you have. the valve seals will eventually crap out cuz they're just rubber essentially.

it's not too hard to change if you have the correct tools for the job (ie: the correct type of 'pliers' to pull the seals out, compressed air to keep the valves up while you remove retainers/keeps and then the valvesprings.) if you take the head off, then it's a bit a of a bitch trying to get the leverage to compress the valve springs (once again, you'll need special tools like a valvespring compressor).

don't mix up the valve seals too if you're buying OEM Honda. they are specific for Intake and Exhaust side (difference durometer rubber i think?).

if you're changing the rings, you'll have to send the block out to a machine shop at the very least and get the cylinder walls honed.

so yah, this will cost you a fair chunk of change in the end....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good guess. 1998 R motor.

Would it hurt the car if i drive it w/ the condition its in right now?