Skunk2 Rear Camber Kit Preset Question for owners!
So mine finally arrived......after about a couple months of waiting (long story).
And since my rear wheels are insanely negative (-3.1 and -2.9 to be exact).....I need to install these ASAP.
So my question is mainly for those who either have this kit on or have had it before. Is there any particular measurement or thread count from the bolt you use to pre-set the camber to a specific setting....or any way to tell at all where the camber will be set to before fully installing the kit? I don't want to have to keep disassembling and re-assembling it to get the camber right....which I believe is the only way to adjust the camber in the rear. Very time-consuming.
I also need the OEM rear camber spec ranges please if anybody has them.
Pics of your camber settings would certainly help to if you have any!
If not........GET SOME!
Thanx ladies!!!
And since my rear wheels are insanely negative (-3.1 and -2.9 to be exact).....I need to install these ASAP.
So my question is mainly for those who either have this kit on or have had it before. Is there any particular measurement or thread count from the bolt you use to pre-set the camber to a specific setting....or any way to tell at all where the camber will be set to before fully installing the kit? I don't want to have to keep disassembling and re-assembling it to get the camber right....which I believe is the only way to adjust the camber in the rear. Very time-consuming.
I also need the OEM rear camber spec ranges please if anybody has them.
Pics of your camber settings would certainly help to if you have any!
If not........GET SOME!
Thanx ladies!!!
K well I figured it out. Thanx for all the wonderful help and replies fellas!
Oh wait.............................................. .
Oh wait.............................................. .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pd0019 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ lol..how many threads did you leave?
i believe i left 3 threads showing to give me -1.5deg camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the only thread. I don't even bother posting in the suspension forum anymore cause I never get feedback from those guys.
I want a little less than -1.5. Aiming for -0.7 to -0.8ish (no more than -1.0) in the rear and -1.2 to -1.4 in the front for handling purposes while hopefully still maintaining tire life and driveability.
I'll just take the time and go through the tedious process of getting the back where I want it. I was just hopefully trying to save time....but I guess it's not possible.
i believe i left 3 threads showing to give me -1.5deg camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the only thread. I don't even bother posting in the suspension forum anymore cause I never get feedback from those guys.
I want a little less than -1.5. Aiming for -0.7 to -0.8ish (no more than -1.0) in the rear and -1.2 to -1.4 in the front for handling purposes while hopefully still maintaining tire life and driveability.
I'll just take the time and go through the tedious process of getting the back where I want it. I was just hopefully trying to save time....but I guess it's not possible.
by "threads" i was talking about the threads on the camber adjuster **** on your control arm
you have the same problem/complaint i do with skunk2 camber arms. that is why im looking for a set of the first-gen SPC camber arms that adjust with the bolt. i believe if you show more threads, you get less camber, i could be wrong though.\
my tire life/driveability on my car is still great, lowered on comptech springs (0 toe, -1.3 front, -1.5 rear) but looking to buy bc n+. for my tire life, i was worried about the same thing, but i just rotate tires more often, so i just do tire rotations with each oil change. no big deal to me. i've been lowered for 10k miles, total miles 30k on stock tires and i still have plenty of tire wear left.
you have the same problem/complaint i do with skunk2 camber arms. that is why im looking for a set of the first-gen SPC camber arms that adjust with the bolt. i believe if you show more threads, you get less camber, i could be wrong though.\
my tire life/driveability on my car is still great, lowered on comptech springs (0 toe, -1.3 front, -1.5 rear) but looking to buy bc n+. for my tire life, i was worried about the same thing, but i just rotate tires more often, so i just do tire rotations with each oil change. no big deal to me. i've been lowered for 10k miles, total miles 30k on stock tires and i still have plenty of tire wear left.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pd0019 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by "threads" i was talking about the threads on the camber adjuster **** on your control arm
you have the same problem/complaint i do with skunk2 camber arms. that is why im looking for a set of the first-gen SPC camber arms that adjust with the bolt. i believe if you show more threads, you get less camber, i could be wrong though.\
my tire life/driveability on my car is still great, lowered on comptech springs (0 toe, -1.3 front, -1.5 rear) but looking to buy bc n+. for my tire life, i was worried about the same thing, but i just rotate tires more often, so i just do tire rotations with each oil change. no big deal to me. i've been lowered for 10k miles, total miles 30k on stock tires and i still have plenty of tire wear left.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. Yeah I know. Seasonal allergies are f**king with my comprehension right now.
I originally had 4 threads showing but for some reason I thought it might be too much....so I rotated it a few more times inward right before installing it. So it might be right at what you have.....3 threads. Whatever I did it brought my camber out a little bit cause the wheels aren't as bad as they used to be...but I still need to hook up to an alignment machine and see where I'm at.
you have the same problem/complaint i do with skunk2 camber arms. that is why im looking for a set of the first-gen SPC camber arms that adjust with the bolt. i believe if you show more threads, you get less camber, i could be wrong though.\
my tire life/driveability on my car is still great, lowered on comptech springs (0 toe, -1.3 front, -1.5 rear) but looking to buy bc n+. for my tire life, i was worried about the same thing, but i just rotate tires more often, so i just do tire rotations with each oil change. no big deal to me. i've been lowered for 10k miles, total miles 30k on stock tires and i still have plenty of tire wear left.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. Yeah I know. Seasonal allergies are f**king with my comprehension right now.
I originally had 4 threads showing but for some reason I thought it might be too much....so I rotated it a few more times inward right before installing it. So it might be right at what you have.....3 threads. Whatever I did it brought my camber out a little bit cause the wheels aren't as bad as they used to be...but I still need to hook up to an alignment machine and see where I'm at.
i can update you hopefully this weekend if you dont get your car aligned. my rims just came in and im going to have to run more camber to get these to fit.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greg50Lt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i installed mine not hard to do at all. but i got an alignment done and the best specs were with the peice spun all the way in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
did that give you ~0 camber?
did that give you ~0 camber?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greg50Lt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i installed mine not hard to do at all. but i got an alignment done and the best specs were with the peice spun all the way in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
piece spun all the way in gives you ~-2.5 to -3 degree camber? i wouldnt call that the "best" specs.
just put my rims on today. w/ 3-4 threads showing i was running -1.2 to -1.3 deg camber. with these new rims i had to leave no threads showing and it looks to be -2.5 to -3 deg camber
piece spun all the way in gives you ~-2.5 to -3 degree camber? i wouldnt call that the "best" specs.
just put my rims on today. w/ 3-4 threads showing i was running -1.2 to -1.3 deg camber. with these new rims i had to leave no threads showing and it looks to be -2.5 to -3 deg camber
Apparently adding threads doesn't adjust the degrees as much as I thought. I went from about 1 thread to 3 threads and I'm still not where I want to be. Wheels are still cupped in....i'm estimating about -1.5ish.
Then I got another sinus headache so I left it alone to mess with another day.
Meh!
Then I got another sinus headache so I left it alone to mess with another day.
Meh!
i have mine in all the way and it is definitely not spec with factory. it is at least -2.5 camber

bad pic but you can see that it is definitely not factory setting.
Modified by pd0019 at 11:20 PM 9/28/2008

bad pic but you can see that it is definitely not factory setting.
Modified by pd0019 at 11:20 PM 9/28/2008
^^ yea but camber wears tires down unevenly giving you less life out of the tire. but hey man. we took it out and adjsuted it and it didnt do much. my specs were like -1.4 and -1.44 i think it was sumthin like that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zeusone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">toe eats tires not camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They both do. Toe just eats it faster. But I've seen tires come in with the outsides barely worn and the insides worn down straight to the metallic sharp lining. The extra pressure put on the insides really takes it's toll. And believe me it doesn't take very long to notice the wear.
Modified by RICO_ at 10:08 PM 9/29/2008
They both do. Toe just eats it faster. But I've seen tires come in with the outsides barely worn and the insides worn down straight to the metallic sharp lining. The extra pressure put on the insides really takes it's toll. And believe me it doesn't take very long to notice the wear.
Modified by RICO_ at 10:08 PM 9/29/2008
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