It's a USDM B-series type R tranny, work's perfect before with the ACT 6 puck clutch kit,

Now with the New Tilton Twin disc cerametallic kit it's:
-Hard to put it into gears from Nuetral, u have to force it into the gears

-When u get it into first gear and take it to 9K, it will not go into second gear when you quick/power shift.

-But when you normal drive and baby shift, it's goes in gear smooth.

-I also notice that the clutch engages/disengages almost at the very bottom, and the engagement point is very small, making it hard to get the correct timming to hit that engagement point and shift to get into gears.

Im using all stock Honda part as far as Master cylinder, slave cylinder, tranny fork and a Autozone Throw out bearing that is the same height as to an shaved OEM one for these Tilton Twin disc kit.

Anybody out there having the same problem??

 

Does the pedal height vary?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im using all stock Honda part as far as Master cylinder, slave cylinder, tranny fork and a Autozone Throw out bearing that is the same height as to an shaved OEM one for these Tilton Twin disc kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you didn't either size the master cylinder to work with this properly or you didn't check the way the TO bearing engages the clutch spring then I'd say it's your fault.

I did a mock-up assembly on my Tilton 2-disk and it looked like a total hack. The official stance of Tilton is that you should buy the $350 hydraulic release bearing for it to function well. They tried to tell me how much R&D they do in the racing world and I stopped listening to them when they thought that NASCAR was synonymous with "high tech."

There is no guarantee that the Autozone bearing is a dimensionally exact replacement for the OEM Honda one. THe OEM bearing has a radius that rides on the fingers of the diaphragm spring. if the radius is not the same or the inside diameter is different it can have dramatic changes to the release of the clutch.

The TO bearing not fitting well is the reason I sent their **** back told them give me my money back. I've heard of far fewer issues with the Clutchmasters' twin disk than the Tilton.

Sorry it's biting you in the ***.

Pirate

 

so do u think the OEM T/O bearing will solve this?

 

What does Tilton think? They have been making RACE car parts for 30 years. I would trust them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does Tilton think? They have been making RACE car parts for 30 years. I would trust them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not saying i don't trust them, or their parts are messing up my tranny, maybe im just doing something wrong here, it's my first time using it so i just want to get some info on what needs to be done to make this work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you didn't either size the master cylinder to work with this properly or you didn't check the way the TO bearing engages the clutch spring then I'd say it's your fault.

Sorry it's biting you in the ***.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a great starting point...

I might know sumfing about clutches.

KNOWLEDGE FO DA WIN!!!

 

Sounds as simple as a Master Cylinder adjustment and it isn't disengaging all the way.

Jack the car up and have someone try to rotate the tire by hand. Push the clutch slowly and it once it disengages you only want the pedal to go 1/4-3/8" past that point. If you go further, the clutch plates can reengage. If it is not engaging until the bottom of the pedal then you need to adj the master or your pedal stop...whatever is keeping you from disengaging. If you aren't getting an "over center" feel with the clutch then it isn't disengaged all the way.

Best of luck.

 

is the slave cylinder old? if so ive had to replace them a time or 2 when putting in new/stiff clutches for people,although i have no experience with tilton. try the simple stuff first,if that doesnt work contact tilton and pull the tranny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sounds like a great starting point...

I might know sumfing about clutches.

KNOWLEDGE FO DA WIN!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

so how do u size the master cylinder?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4piston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds as simple as a Master Cylinder adjustment and it isn't disengaging all the way. If it is not engaging until the bottom of the pedal then you need to adj the master or your pedal stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>




adjust your clutch pedal!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4piston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds as simple as a Master Cylinder adjustment and it isn't disengaging all the way.

Jack the car up and have someone try to rotate the tire by hand. Push the clutch slowly and it once it disengages you only want the pedal to go 1/4-3/8" past that point. If you go further, the clutch plates can reengage. If it is not engaging until the bottom of the pedal then you need to adj the master or your pedal stop...whatever is keeping you from disengaging. If you aren't getting an "over center" feel with the clutch then it isn't disengaged all the way.

Best of luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do i do this with the transmission in gear?

 

Some twins need to have the peddle adjusted in order for it to engage/disengage properly.

Same thing goes for a peddle stop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

do i do this with the transmission in gear?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes... we found it easier to notice the movement in 4th gear.