The problem began when I changed the tie-rods. Went to start the car, ran really rough for 5-10sec then cut out, and wouldn't start ever since. Had fuel and spark. Checked timing, it looked like it wasbeen 1 tooth off. So I pulled the belt off and reinstalled a new one. Found out that when the crank is at tdc, the cams always 'look' about .5tooth out sync at tdc.

Tested the coil. Primary resistance was half of what it should be. Did compression test, and it was zero on 3cyl, 30psi on one.

Could a weak coil and subsequent start trys have washed the cylinders enough to produce no compression? I added two caps worth of oil, and the result barely changed.

The motor is stock and the compression was weak to begin with. I just can't imagine it going to zero compression just like that and not recovering with oil added.


Modified by vinuneuro at 9:07 AM 9/18/2008

 

That sounds like bent valves to me. You can pull the valve cover and check valve lash. That might tell you something, but it sounds like it's time to take it apart and replace some parts.

 

I don't understand how it could be bent valves. The first time I pulled the valve cover to check timing, the belt was off by a tooth, if that. The next time it was cranked everything was aligned perfectly. Basically no opportunity for them to get bent.

 

Just do a leakdown,your wasting time trying to find answers online.I don't understand everybody obsession with compression test results.They tell you allmost nothing besides that you have a problem,which you probably knew to begin with.

 

Vig, the only thing I can theorize here is that maybe the thing was overrevved or something once and skipped that tooth, and maybe floated valves. Although I find it hard to believe that there would be 3 cylinders with no compression due to that. All of that aside, a single tooth off isn't going to bend valves AFAIK.

I think the next step is definitely a leakdown style compression test. If you have access to an air compressor, get your compression tester attachment, and pump air into each cylinder one at a time. Take the upper section of the header off to make it easiest, and pop off the VC breather (you may want to plug the pcv hole to make it easier to tell). Feel for where the air is coming out. (intake, exh, vc aka crankcase which would indicate rings or a bad cylinder wall)

Unfortunately it does sound like it's going to be more than something simple. Let us know what you end up finding out.

edit: also check your coolant for bubbles or oil, and check the oil for water. Either of those would indicate a bad head gasket.

 

To be very sure, I had to add this, are you fully sure you did the compression test correctly? If you turn the crank around by hand with a ratchet, can you feel/hear the pressure moving around or nothing?

 

I was there looking at it last night, I'm at a loss also.

compression test was done right. (did it three times with two different gauges) Dead give away... the rubber hose on the compression tester usually jumps when on the compression stroke, it twitched a little but basically sat there limp.

turning it by hand it feels like there's very little compression, cranking with the starter it sound like that also.
All of the rocker arms have normal play in them at rest, and the cams are opening/closing them normally. At least it looks like it from the top.

The leak down test was going to be the next step but neither of us has a working air compressor.


The largest question that keeps boggling my mind, why when he replaced the tie rods? and why all of a sudden like this?


Modified by Relic1 at 10:57 AM 9/18/2008

 

I'll try to get my compressor running as it's either that or pull the head and inspect the valves. I still don't think it's the valves because the car's never been overreved nor has the cam timing ever been more than 1 tooth off. It ran fine before I changed the tie-rods. This has to be some ridiculous coincidence.

I'd be more pissed if the engine was in good condition, but the bottom-end was weak to begin with. Guess I may have to pull the motor and rebuild sooner than I thought, though it's buggin the hell outta me that I have zero compression for no obvious reason.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It ran fine before I changed the tie-rods. This has to be some ridiculous coincidence.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That much is for sure. Didn't you do that timing belt change while it was down to do tie rods?

Let's get a full sequence of events, maybe that will point something out. Sure the autotensioner is good?

 

I know on my old SOHC I forgot to adjust the valves after swapping cams... I had zero comp. in all cylinders, just a thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The largest question that keeps boggling my mind, why when he replaced the tie rods? and why all of a sudden like this?


Modified by Relic1 at 10:57 AM 9/18/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm assuming you actually mean tie-rods, not connecting rods. If so, yes it's a coincidence. Suspension parts don't cause engine failure.

 

Sorry Vig, it sounds like you're going to have to pull the head and have a look see unless you know someone with a nice, expensive, illuminated bore scope.

At the very least get an air tank or fix the compressor and try to isolate the compession issue. If you're lucky it'll only be the valves. If it's the rings then you're in for a lot more work.

-Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2LEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm assuming you actually mean tie-rods, not connecting rods. If so, yes it's a coincidence. Suspension parts don't cause engine failure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nobody asked for stupid, unfunny comments. If you have nothing worth my time to read, get out. Thanks.

Vig, I figured I'd check in, I've been busy all day, but it looks like not much went on. Get us some news ASAP man.

 

Since I did have the cam cap(s) off to change the head plug/seal during the tbelt change and kabaroo made an excellent point, I checked the valve lash but all were basically spot-on.

Even if it's just bent valves, I'll probably pull the motor and rebuild it over winter. It seriously needs it. Apart from the existing low compression, I had leaks at both balancer shafts, oil pan and rear main seal. I'll try to get my compressor working, just because, in the mean time.

I appreciate all that took the time to post.

 

If you added oil to the cylinders and had no change in compression, it is your valves.

 

I am afraid my engine may be turning into Vin's part 2. I have a JDM H22A, always ran fine timing spot on, and a few months ago, started having a midrange hesitiation and hard time idling when hot.

I figured Ok ignitor going bad. Pulled dizzy off, didnt have time to swap the ignitor out, put it back on, centered right where it had been before. No start.

Got a new ignitor, cap, rotor, plugs. No start. By retarding the dizzy all the way, I could barely get it to stay running, but would not idle or rev right, sounds like a big misfire. Plugs come out super rich and fouled badly.

Since this, I have swapped ecu's, 2 coils, 2 more dizzys, coil wire, but not plug wires yet, and main relay just for kicks. Still the same issues. I have triple checked all grounds, even made a new tranny ground and pulled off and cleaned the thermostat ground area. My next goals are finding a set of H22 plug wires in Calgary, and bring home a compression tester, maybe leakdown if we have one at work, since I have a working air compresser

Oh and I also cleaned out EGR, but it was pretty good, and moved freely when I pulled it off.

 

Well damn, my compression test came out fine, so I am baffled!

 

Have you checked the firing order? I had to ask....

Have you checked the timing (cam timing, not ignition) belt to make sure everything is still lined up correctly and that you didn't jump a tooth somewhere?

Have you ever done a valve adjustment? I don't think that's why it refuses to run, but that may have been the root of the hesitation.

also, check the resistor box circuit, there should be test procedures in the helms