Searched: rarely any useful results. Installing oil pressure gauge?
Recently I've been Aquiring some gauges.. To Just be more informed about whats going on with my car.. thats the basic route right now..
I started with what i considered the most important in my case, the oil pressure, got a autometer on the way.
I need some help installing it, as I've read a few DIY's some people taking out the stock sender unit and just throwing the fitting in there, others ordering a sandwitch plate for the oil filter and doing it from there
Also I wanted to know where to get SS lines, i'm not too excited about running a oil line inside of my car at 80psi
Any points in the right direction, EXTREMELY helpful..
I started with what i considered the most important in my case, the oil pressure, got a autometer on the way.
I need some help installing it, as I've read a few DIY's some people taking out the stock sender unit and just throwing the fitting in there, others ordering a sandwitch plate for the oil filter and doing it from there
Also I wanted to know where to get SS lines, i'm not too excited about running a oil line inside of my car at 80psi

Any points in the right direction, EXTREMELY helpful..
I did find http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/ on goggle, however i'd liek to know where to get SS line from to fit. And the T fitting i guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruffrhyder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Find a shop that will make you custom high pressure SS lines with NPT fittings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not what i'm looking for, considering no shop around here does that. Was looking to possible buy a kit of some sort.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Not what i'm looking for, considering no shop around here does that. Was looking to possible buy a kit of some sort.
Autometer sells a stainless line of appropriate length with various fittings that you would be able to get to work with a sandwich plate.
Thats what I use on my personal car anyway, mechanical oil pressure straight into the cabin. With good line, and making sure its grommeted at the firewall, you will be OK.
Thats what I use on my personal car anyway, mechanical oil pressure straight into the cabin. With good line, and making sure its grommeted at the firewall, you will be OK.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Autometer sells a stainless line of appropriate length with various fittings that you would be able to get to work with a sandwich plate.
Thats what I use on my personal car anyway, mechanical oil pressure straight into the cabin. With good line, and making sure its grommeted at the firewall, you will be OK. </TD></TR></TABLE>
autometer.com?
Thats what I use on my personal car anyway, mechanical oil pressure straight into the cabin. With good line, and making sure its grommeted at the firewall, you will be OK. </TD></TR></TABLE>
autometer.com?
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if you are using a mechanical oil pressure gauge they come with a nylon tube kit that will work ok.i used the copper tube for my mechanical oil pressure gauge to run inside the car: http://www.autometer.com/cat_a...id=19
if you plan to use the electrical oil pressure gauge you should run a short 2 foot long stainless line from the stock oil pressure switch port to the firewall and use some "T" or some type of manifold to split the sending unit to the stock oil pressure switch.
if you only have the gauge sending unit and stock oil pressure switch then a simple "T" will be fine. if you have to run the sending unit, switch, ls/vtec oil line, turbo feed etc... then you will need some type of manifold to split the source to feed all those things.
if you plan to use the electrical oil pressure gauge you should run a short 2 foot long stainless line from the stock oil pressure switch port to the firewall and use some "T" or some type of manifold to split the sending unit to the stock oil pressure switch.
if you only have the gauge sending unit and stock oil pressure switch then a simple "T" will be fine. if you have to run the sending unit, switch, ls/vtec oil line, turbo feed etc... then you will need some type of manifold to split the source to feed all those things.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
this is the autometer part they used to install an oil pressure guage in an STI in this article from autometer:
http://www.autometer.com/techi...aid=7
it's about halfway down the page. there's alot of installation information on their site. might even have an integra, but I didn't check.
I thought you knew how to use google
this is the autometer part they used to install an oil pressure guage in an STI in this article from autometer:
http://www.autometer.com/techi...aid=7
it's about halfway down the page. there's alot of installation information on their site. might even have an integra, but I didn't check.
I thought you knew how to use google
*edit, I guess I fail at reading. someone else already mentioned doing this*
I read a few articles on here and a few other sites about installing a electric oil pressure gauge. Many say NOT to mout it on the block, because it vibrates and will mess your threads up...causing you to lose oil...and long story short it could cause your motor to fail. And yes, I did read a thread in the auto-x section where that in fact happened.
What I plan to do is run a stainless line off of the back of the block into a T. Off that T I will have my factory oil pressure switch and on the other end, my electric sender. This will all get attached to the firewall somehow. (probably a ziptie)
Summit sells a kit that will do this, for like $50- and that other guy who has been whoring out his oil lines also said he would make me a kit, but never got back to me on a price and when he could make it.
Modified by junkyard racer at 8:13 AM 9/17/2008
I read a few articles on here and a few other sites about installing a electric oil pressure gauge. Many say NOT to mout it on the block, because it vibrates and will mess your threads up...causing you to lose oil...and long story short it could cause your motor to fail. And yes, I did read a thread in the auto-x section where that in fact happened.
What I plan to do is run a stainless line off of the back of the block into a T. Off that T I will have my factory oil pressure switch and on the other end, my electric sender. This will all get attached to the firewall somehow. (probably a ziptie)
Summit sells a kit that will do this, for like $50- and that other guy who has been whoring out his oil lines also said he would make me a kit, but never got back to me on a price and when he could make it.
Modified by junkyard racer at 8:13 AM 9/17/2008
In the article I posted, they used a larger version one of these line clamps to mount the sender on the shock tower. The rubber helps dampen the vibration. Seems like a reasonable solution.

where to find those clamps: http://store.summitracing.com/...28263
Modified by IT GUY at 8:16 AM 9/17/2008
Modified by IT GUY at 1:49 PM 9/17/2008

where to find those clamps: http://store.summitracing.com/...28263
Modified by IT GUY at 8:16 AM 9/17/2008
Modified by IT GUY at 1:49 PM 9/17/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are using a mechanical oil pressure gauge they come with a nylon tube kit that will work ok.i used the copper tube for my mechanical oil pressure gauge to run inside the car: http://www.autometer.com/cat_a...id=19
if you plan to use the electrical oil pressure gauge you should run a short 2 foot long stainless line from the stock oil pressure switch port to the firewall and use some "T" or some type of manifold to split the sending unit to the stock oil pressure switch.
if you only have the gauge sending unit and stock oil pressure switch then a simple "T" will be fine. if you have to run the sending unit, switch, ls/vtec oil line, turbo feed etc... then you will need some type of manifold to split the source to feed all those things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do plan on running my stock oil light, and i do know to keep it away from the block which i plan on doing.. I'm not looking for copper as i have not had any good luck with it, i wanted a stainless steel line. But yes i know of that already, thx for the input tho.
if you plan to use the electrical oil pressure gauge you should run a short 2 foot long stainless line from the stock oil pressure switch port to the firewall and use some "T" or some type of manifold to split the sending unit to the stock oil pressure switch.
if you only have the gauge sending unit and stock oil pressure switch then a simple "T" will be fine. if you have to run the sending unit, switch, ls/vtec oil line, turbo feed etc... then you will need some type of manifold to split the source to feed all those things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do plan on running my stock oil light, and i do know to keep it away from the block which i plan on doing.. I'm not looking for copper as i have not had any good luck with it, i wanted a stainless steel line. But yes i know of that already, thx for the input tho.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
this is the autometer part they used to install an oil pressure guage in an STI in this article from autometer:
http://www.autometer.com/techi...aid=7
it's about halfway down the page. there's alot of installation information on their site. might even have an integra, but I didn't check.
I thought you knew how to use google
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now thats what i'm looking for.. I appciate you.. and yes i do, my wife is a google nerd.. I however Have hardly any luck, more luck on HT then google.com.. Thx again bro
Hrmm now that i think about it.. Can't i just run the new fitting and line str8 from the block to the gauge? Instead of Ting it off, because now that i think abotu it, my oil light doesn't stay on, it goes off..so there's really no need for me to have my stock oil plugin..
Modified by IntegraType-R at 7:36 AM 9/17/2008
this is the autometer part they used to install an oil pressure guage in an STI in this article from autometer:
http://www.autometer.com/techi...aid=7
it's about halfway down the page. there's alot of installation information on their site. might even have an integra, but I didn't check.
I thought you knew how to use google
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now thats what i'm looking for.. I appciate you.. and yes i do, my wife is a google nerd.. I however Have hardly any luck, more luck on HT then google.com.. Thx again bro
Hrmm now that i think about it.. Can't i just run the new fitting and line str8 from the block to the gauge? Instead of Ting it off, because now that i think abotu it, my oil light doesn't stay on, it goes off..so there's really no need for me to have my stock oil plugin..
Modified by IntegraType-R at 7:36 AM 9/17/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junkyard racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*edit, I guess I fail at reading. someone else already mentioned doing this*
I read a few articles on here and a few other sites about installing a electric oil pressure gauge. Many say NOT to mout it on the block, because it vibrates and will mess your threads up...causing you to lose oil...and long story short it could cause your motor to fail. And yes, I did read a thread in the auto-x section where that in fact happened.
What I plan to do is run a stainless line off of the back of the block into a T. Off that T I will have my factory oil pressure switch and on the other end, my electric sender. This will all get attached to the firewall somehow. (probably a ziptie)
Summit sells a kit that will do this, for like $50- and that other guy who has been whoring out his oil lines also said he would make me a kit, but never got back to me on a price and when he could make it.
Modified by junkyard racer at 8:13 AM 9/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
My exact idea.. but as of now i just bought the 3ft of line.. so i'm deciding if i can just go ahead w/o the stock oil light.
I read a few articles on here and a few other sites about installing a electric oil pressure gauge. Many say NOT to mout it on the block, because it vibrates and will mess your threads up...causing you to lose oil...and long story short it could cause your motor to fail. And yes, I did read a thread in the auto-x section where that in fact happened.
What I plan to do is run a stainless line off of the back of the block into a T. Off that T I will have my factory oil pressure switch and on the other end, my electric sender. This will all get attached to the firewall somehow. (probably a ziptie)
Summit sells a kit that will do this, for like $50- and that other guy who has been whoring out his oil lines also said he would make me a kit, but never got back to me on a price and when he could make it.
Modified by junkyard racer at 8:13 AM 9/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
My exact idea.. but as of now i just bought the 3ft of line.. so i'm deciding if i can just go ahead w/o the stock oil light.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now thats what i'm looking for.. I appciate you.. and yes i do, my wife is a google nerd.. I however Have hardly any luck, more luck on HT then google.com.. Thx again bro
Hrmm now that i think about it.. Can't i just run the new fitting and line str8 from the block to the gauge? Instead of Ting it off, because now that i think abotu it, my oil light doesn't stay on, it goes off..so there's really no need for me to have my stock oil plugin..
Modified by IntegraType-R at 7:36 AM 9/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad I could actually help in this forum for once
I don't know enough to say if you can remove the factory sensor entirely. They did in that STi, but I know that doesn't help you. I think you're probably right though. The block sender doesn't serve much purpose as far as the ECU goes. Doesn't it just pop up the oil light on the dash when it hits a certain pressure? I read like 5psi, but that would be pretty useless as far as a low pressure warning goes.
Now thats what i'm looking for.. I appciate you.. and yes i do, my wife is a google nerd.. I however Have hardly any luck, more luck on HT then google.com.. Thx again bro
Hrmm now that i think about it.. Can't i just run the new fitting and line str8 from the block to the gauge? Instead of Ting it off, because now that i think abotu it, my oil light doesn't stay on, it goes off..so there's really no need for me to have my stock oil plugin..
Modified by IntegraType-R at 7:36 AM 9/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad I could actually help in this forum for once
I don't know enough to say if you can remove the factory sensor entirely. They did in that STi, but I know that doesn't help you. I think you're probably right though. The block sender doesn't serve much purpose as far as the ECU goes. Doesn't it just pop up the oil light on the dash when it hits a certain pressure? I read like 5psi, but that would be pretty useless as far as a low pressure warning goes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Glad I could actually help in this forum for once
I don't know enough to say if you can remove the factory sensor entirely. They did in that STi, but I know that doesn't help you. I think you're probably right though. The block sender doesn't serve much purpose as far as the ECU goes. Doesn't it just pop up the oil light on the dash when it hits a certain pressure? I read like 5psi, but that would be pretty useless as far as a low pressure warning goes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
right when i got this car.. The oil light would come on then off, come to find out, the plug was never plugged in, so it really served me no purpose until this pass year when i went to clean up the wiring.. I always took care of my car so i never worried, i'm very ocd about oil and **** like that, i'm weird like that..I clean my oil pan.. who does that??
I'll run the new nipple and fitting from the back of the block str8 to the gauge and see how that works, i already bought the kit, i dont want to have to buy another T fitting, then buy another kit, because 3ft is just going to be long enough.. for a str8 fit from the block to the gauge..
Glad I could actually help in this forum for once
I don't know enough to say if you can remove the factory sensor entirely. They did in that STi, but I know that doesn't help you. I think you're probably right though. The block sender doesn't serve much purpose as far as the ECU goes. Doesn't it just pop up the oil light on the dash when it hits a certain pressure? I read like 5psi, but that would be pretty useless as far as a low pressure warning goes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>right when i got this car.. The oil light would come on then off, come to find out, the plug was never plugged in, so it really served me no purpose until this pass year when i went to clean up the wiring.. I always took care of my car so i never worried, i'm very ocd about oil and **** like that, i'm weird like that..I clean my oil pan.. who does that??
I'll run the new nipple and fitting from the back of the block str8 to the gauge and see how that works, i already bought the kit, i dont want to have to buy another T fitting, then buy another kit, because 3ft is just going to be long enough.. for a str8 fit from the block to the gauge..
wonder if autozone carries t fittings and if they do i wonder if i might can just run the nylon from the back of the block to the t fitting then run the SS's to the gauge.. that seems like a good idea.. how well does nylon hold up tho.. oil gets hot and as far as i know.. 80psi lol is pretty heavy.
i got a tee fitting from jegs. Also with the line you can make them yourself just like fuel line. In the description it says:
Compatible with all synthetic lubricants, fuels, oils, coolants and alcohols including methanol. A perfect complement for any black or polished fitting combination.
Not for use with brake fluids
Brake fluid is obviously under higher pressure.
Also it may be easier rather than running a tee fitting to get a block adaptor(sandwich plate) and run the gauge off that and run the oil pressure switch in its original location. Plus on most you have 2 or 3 ports to run additional gauges etc off. I think that was mentioned earlier though.
Compatible with all synthetic lubricants, fuels, oils, coolants and alcohols including methanol. A perfect complement for any black or polished fitting combination.
Not for use with brake fluids
Brake fluid is obviously under higher pressure.
Also it may be easier rather than running a tee fitting to get a block adaptor(sandwich plate) and run the gauge off that and run the oil pressure switch in its original location. Plus on most you have 2 or 3 ports to run additional gauges etc off. I think that was mentioned earlier though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an autometer copper tube kit brand new laying on a shelf in the garage, 10$ shipped. You can get a tee fitting anywhere, I have bins of them. I can send you one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hrmm
pics of the line and t fitting?
hrmm
pics of the line and t fitting?
im also in same situation in i cant find kit i can use to mount oem oil press switch and spa pressure sensor switch as shown here
http://theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/
this is kinda what i need but still not good as i need to mount 2 sensors (below i imgaine is for mechanical gauge whereas im fitting electronic)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/
this is kinda what i need but still not good as i need to mount 2 sensors (below i imgaine is for mechanical gauge whereas im fitting electronic)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Last edited by vti444; Nov 22, 2008 at 10:45 AM.
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