It's a 94 Civic EX, Vtec, D16z6 motor. The timing belt sliped one or two teeth and it tagged two exhaust valves in #3 cylinder. I took the head off and to a machine shop with a good reputation. When putting the engine back together I put the #1 cylinder at top dead center and the Cam Sprocket marks aligned level with the top of the cylinder block. After setting the tension on the belt I couldn't get the marks lined up. I would be 1 tooth off either way on the sprocket when it was tensioned. I talked to some people and they said it can happen when you have a head refreshend, it wont be a problem. Hell with it, I set it to 1 tooth retarded and set the timing with the timing light to what was recommended. It ran good for two months(however 4 mpg less) until one day driving down the interstate 80mph in the rain the guages started fluctuating and the engine started sputtering. I eased off the gas now probably doing 60 and it shows 0mph. All of a sudden power returns and the guage shows 50 and slowing, I get in the gas and it accelates fine while the guages are working. I nursed it home and parked it. On the way home it was running ruff and weak on power periodically when the guages wern't working. I shut it down and it hasn't started since.

I first thought maybe the Distributor was arching and causing misfiring. I pulled the distributor cap off and a little bit of oil ran out. The seal around the shaft went bad so I bought a New Aftermarket Distributor bolted it on and it still won't start. I tried it 180 Degrees out, different firing oders, Nothing...

I have Fuel running to the rail. I have Spark. I have compression. It spins over good with occasional coughing.

Could it be the Engine Control Module OBD 1 P-28?????
The check engine light, lights up when I turn the Ignition on but doesn't flash.
Does that mean it's not throwing a code????
The only light that flashes is the SRS.

Plz SAVE MY Honda!!!!

 

the way you describe it running sounds like the alternator was out and the car was running off what was left in the battery. but if your trying things now and the cars not running its obviously not a charging problem. first thing i would do is check the code. if you have a cel you have a code. there is a write up in the FAQ's on how to retrieve it. now by saying you have fuel to the fuel rail how did you check it? did you check to see if the injectors are firing? fuses? did you replace the rotor inside the distributor? try checking your CEL first if there is one.

 

It not the Alternator, good battery (new).
I checked the fuel rail by unbolting it and turning the ignition on. It flowed a good rate of fuel out.
I listened to the injectors while someone turned the car over and it sounded like they were firing. Any better way to check? What about a fuse for the injectors where would it be located?
I tried swaping alot of parts from the New distributor into the old, no luck.I also tried changing the firing order around nothing.
I did jump the connector under the kick panel trying to check for a code but like i said the cel lights up when the ignition is turned on but does not blink.
I think it is definatley an electrical problem. I tried swaping the Engine Control Module P-28 with other ECM's but not the same model # ECM. I tried P-14 I think P-06.
I cant find anyone that rents or lends out a code reader. And I would have to tow my car to a dealer for them to read it.
I checked the fuses they all looked fine.

Any other tricks or advice?
Do you think you could forward any of this to your friends?

 

check your grounds, try different plugs and wires.

if you jumped the connector and the CEL won't flash that points to your ECU

 

Try a different ecu. Check if all your lines were connected back properly when you put the head back on the block.

 

CEL but no blinking when tested means ecu failure.

 

Is there any way to test the ECU out of the Car???
Can I send it somewhere to be tested???

 

find a friend with a p-28 or similar ecu and plug it in. see what happens. just borrow it to test.

 

you can test the injectors with a test light if you dont mind probing the wires. the injector should always have power when the key is on. you have to test the ground to it for a pulse. so take the test light and give it power, then probe the ground wire of the injector and have someone crank the car. if the light flashed its pulsing. so if you know the injector had power and a ground pulse and its getting fuel to the rail you can almost eliminate fuel as the problem. as long as you have good fuel pressure also.