Thats what I got.

It's considered a CKP or Crank position sensor. Someone told me the sensor is in the distributor and stuff and that it might not be the sensor.

So I took the cap off and cleaned the hell out of the 4 points on the cab and cleaned the rotor. There was a little corrosion but not bad. Started it up and it ran great, so I thought problem temp. solved. Wrong. I only got the CEL some of the time. So I just got lucky when I started it up.

So it's not the cap or the rotor I don't think. Cause those are squeeky clean right now.

Any thoughts?

The problem I'm getting is delayed start. Some sputtering. And it sounding like it wants to die: for example idling at 400rpm or at like 1100 off and on, its just weird.

I also get an occassional misfire but when it misfires it lurches the car forward.

 

This CEL is caused by one of two things. It's a wiring issue, or the distributor needs to be replaced.

Was the car converted to MPFI? This CEL is common with that swap because of the swapping of wires at c1 & c2 to b10 & b12. So i would suggest checking over your ecu wiring and the distributor wiring if the swap was performed.

To determine if its the distributor, measure the resistance between terminal c & d on the 8p distributor plug. Needs to be between 350-550 ohms otherwise it needs to be replaced. Those are the two pins in the center of the plug. You can also check for continuity for each of those pins, if continuity doesn't exist, then replace the distributor.

 

Totally stock DPFI engine.

You're talking about the main plug that goes directly into the distributor with 6 or 8 pins?

I'm sure my neighbor has a voltage tester thing.

I have no idea how to test for ohms. I assume it's when the plug is unplugged?


Modified by Eighty-Nyne at 3:47 PM 9/10/2008

 

Yes, the main plug that goes to the distributor. Yes you will need a multimeter to test for continuity/resistance.

Yep, you will need to unplug the connector to check for resistance.