cheaper...ls/vtec or b16 swap
depends on if you can get local parts ide say build ls/vtec. Find a ls block or b20 for around 500 in good shape and a b16 or gsr head for about 600 and a good b16 tranny for like 600-800 ide say its a lil cheaper than a b16 swap and funner. im not sure for Im not sure how much a swap shipped would be but im pretty sure a lil more than 2g's. some of the parts you can prob find for cheaper to i got my b20 block for like 350 and dont forget about mounts and a ecu.
honestly it completely depends where you can source parts, how much work you can do yourself etc...
I can get B18 LS blocks for $50-75 from the junk yard, spend a few hundred building it up for good VTEC, and a used B16 complete head for $200-$300 pretty easily. SiR trans would still probably run me $300 though, can snag some GSR axles for $60 or so, etc and I can do ALL the mechanical work and wiring.
So really the only part I'd have to pay full retail for is the mount kit. This would make it a little bit cheaper than doing the same stuff with a full swap from HMO and would be a bit more powerful.
If you can't source cheap parts, or do labor - just buy the swap from HMO and pay a shop a bunch to do it.
I can get B18 LS blocks for $50-75 from the junk yard, spend a few hundred building it up for good VTEC, and a used B16 complete head for $200-$300 pretty easily. SiR trans would still probably run me $300 though, can snag some GSR axles for $60 or so, etc and I can do ALL the mechanical work and wiring.
So really the only part I'd have to pay full retail for is the mount kit. This would make it a little bit cheaper than doing the same stuff with a full swap from HMO and would be a bit more powerful.
If you can't source cheap parts, or do labor - just buy the swap from HMO and pay a shop a bunch to do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kalm_traveler »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly it completely depends where you can source parts, how much work you can do yourself etc...
I can get B18 LS blocks for $50-75 from the junk yard, spend a few hundred building it up for good VTEC, and a used B16 complete head for $200-$300 pretty easily. SiR trans would still probably run me $300 though, can snag some GSR axles for $60 or so, etc and I can do ALL the mechanical work and wiring.
So really the only part I'd have to pay full retail for is the mount kit. This would make it a little bit cheaper than doing the same stuff with a full swap from HMO and would be a bit more powerful.
If you can't source cheap parts, or do labor - just buy the swap from HMO and pay a shop a bunch to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE> This is why LS/VTEC's have a reputation for being unreliable. Cheap parts/ cheap motor "blowed up>
I can get B18 LS blocks for $50-75 from the junk yard, spend a few hundred building it up for good VTEC, and a used B16 complete head for $200-$300 pretty easily. SiR trans would still probably run me $300 though, can snag some GSR axles for $60 or so, etc and I can do ALL the mechanical work and wiring.
So really the only part I'd have to pay full retail for is the mount kit. This would make it a little bit cheaper than doing the same stuff with a full swap from HMO and would be a bit more powerful.
If you can't source cheap parts, or do labor - just buy the swap from HMO and pay a shop a bunch to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE> This is why LS/VTEC's have a reputation for being unreliable. Cheap parts/ cheap motor "blowed up>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> This is why LS/VTEC's have a reputation for being unreliable. Cheap parts/ cheap motor "blowed up></TD></TR></TABLE>
I understand what you're saying - but paying $75 for a junkyard B18 instead of $500 from somwhere else when you're only getting the block to build it won't make any difference at all.
Also I have a few connections which is why I can source some other parts cheaper than Joe Blow could find online - not knockoff garbage.
I understand what you're saying - but paying $75 for a junkyard B18 instead of $500 from somwhere else when you're only getting the block to build it won't make any difference at all.
Also I have a few connections which is why I can source some other parts cheaper than Joe Blow could find online - not knockoff garbage.
i can do all the labor by myself. i bought a crx that had a ls swap that burned oil. i rebuilt it with OEM parts which wasnt cheap. i mean rings and bearings were close to $600 together.
but i traded it for a civic so i could swap and build my own car.
i can get parts cheap but and im not afraid to build a ls/vtec cause i would build it right. ive read about ls/vtec being reliable and putting out more power than a b16.
the only thing that im worried bout is it costing so much to build the b18 block so its reliable to rev up to 8 grand.
but i traded it for a civic so i could swap and build my own car.
i can get parts cheap but and im not afraid to build a ls/vtec cause i would build it right. ive read about ls/vtec being reliable and putting out more power than a b16.
the only thing that im worried bout is it costing so much to build the b18 block so its reliable to rev up to 8 grand.
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Cheaper swap really depends. What car are you putting the swap into? IMO, if you putting it into any hatch or any NON EK coupe, get a b16. Good reliable out of the box and really fun to drive (IMO of course....). I like LS/vtec but then again, you gotta have a good shop to built it, or you gotta know how to built it to make it nice and reliable. That takes more time, effort, and in the end might cost more than a direct b16 swap. I really like the b16 because of the ability to rev high out of the box and VERY reliable.
Correct, if you spend money the b18v will have more power than the b16 but since you mention "cheaper" b16 is nice.
Correct, if you spend money the b18v will have more power than the b16 but since you mention "cheaper" b16 is nice.
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