hey guys, well the issue is my vtec hardly feels like its engaging. it doesnt have that little kick at 4500 like other h22 powered hondas ive been in. its been an issue since ive done the swap into my CL about a year ago. i have I/H/E and a chipped P06 ECU with H22 basemaps.

could this be faulty wiring, solenoid, or just how the JDM 92-95 H22's are?

 

If it was faulty wiring you should probably have a CEL.

If you haven't tuned the car yet and your running on a base map. That could be your problem.

I ran 4 different H22A base maps that I found from reputable sites on gibanez's Chipped H2B Civic. None of them ran properly. It took a bit of tweaking to get it running. Then a full tune to get it running smooth with VTEC were it should be.

 

my car hasnt been tuned yet.

i always thought that could be it but was never sure.

 

did you convert the p06 to p28?

 

nah never did.

i think im gonna try and clean out the filter in the solnoid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_accord94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you convert the p06 to p28?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 732xghost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah never did.

i think im gonna try and clean out the filter in the solnoid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You realize that the P06 is a Non VTEC ECU and without physically adding the required P28 components to it there will be no VTEC.

 

it was chipped for vtec though.

 

the program doesnt matter if the circuitry to engage vtec is missing.

 

im not sure if you heard of Xenocron in North Jersey. but there a reputable shop and i doubt they would sell me a ECU chipped for VTEC with H22 maps and not actually do it. you can still buy a non-vtec ecu and have VTEC.

i feel a slight kick at 4500 which is where i had them program my VTEC to engage but not as dramatic as other vehicles ive driven.

i think it might be a clogged solnoid.

 

solenoid would throw a CEL...if you did not buy a p28 equivalent ecu you will not have vtec as the physical components required are not there. how much was the ecu from xenocron (i can tell you what components were installed based on his prices)?

 

http://www.xenocron.com/catalo....html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 732xghost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.xenocron.com/catalo....html

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is a copy of the product information for the link you provided.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xenocron product information &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Chipped OBD1 Non-VTEC ECU
[Non-V-Ecu]


Points Credit : 175 points Currently valued at $3.50

Available Options:
Add-On: NoneS300 Chipped (+$5.00)



$175.00
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read the first line of the product description. It states Non VTEC ECU. It then states it again on the second line. It won't matter if you have a VTEC base map or not. You do not physically have a VTEC capable ECU.

This is the one you should have ordered.
http://www.xenocron.com/catalo....html


Contact Xenocron and see if you can exchange your non VTEC ecu plus the difference in cash for a VTEC ECU.


Modified by GhostAccord at 11:34 AM 8/30/2008

 

im sorry but until i get a response from Chris at Xenocron, i dont buy it.

he recommended i buy the P06 to save myself some money when he could have easily sold me the P28. He obviously knew i was doing a H22A swap so why would he sell me a cheaper non-vtec ECU.

i know my VTEC is engaging but not with the full potential i know it should be.

 

Chipped P28 for $140ish

Bought a virgin and chipped myself.

If you're that concerned snag a friend's P13 if you can and try that.

 

my car ran like **** on the stock P13 that was givin to me with the swap.

the **** could hardly right correctly.

 

If you do in fact have a chipped VTEC ECU that runs like crap and a stock P13 that also ran like crap. I would suggest that you get you car tuned.

As for buying it or not.... the proof is right there in writting. The link you pasted states right on it that it is a Non VTEC ECU plain and simple. Whether or not that's what they sent I don't know.

 

You have an i/h/e h22 swap, so an h22 basemap should be able to run that somewhat with the right ecu, and a p13 should be perfect if the swap was done correctly and the engine is in good running order. The fact that you are experiencing trouble with 2 ecus leads me to believe that if you are, in fact, running an ecu with the proper vtec hardware, then you may have something wrong aside from the ecu issue.

As a side note, you've removed several accessories that a p13 would need to run 100%, and unless it's a modified p06 to p72 spec (or you've removed the iab's and are using a p28), then you don't have the iab system functioning either.

 

well i tried and see if the screen on the solnoid was clogged and it wasnt.

so im gonna have to talk to xenocron on tuesday. i want this motor to be running at its full potential.

 

you can check if you open your ecu case (once out of the car and provided you properly ground yourself and equipment). look for the IC14 location on the board, should be to the top left if you have the plugs on the left-hand side. If you have a high side switch in place then it is converted to p28...if you do not have the switch then it is still a non-vtec ecu.

 

ill check it out.

 

idk i kinda dont quite follow. heres a pic of my ECU.

 

You have the vtec high side switch in IC14, as shown in the image below, so I feel confident that the ecu has been successfully converted to p28 spec at least.



The issue may be the basemap, as they are simply a bandaid to limp around until better tuning can occur. As long as you are not pulling any DTC's, then the issue could possibly be solved by getting a solid tune done. It may be a good time to upgrade any items you've been holding off on since it's much easier to get it tuned once than to continuously keep going back for retunes whenever the mood moves you to add something new (header, cat delete, freer flowing exhaust, different intake/im, etc.).

 

im adding a 3" Prelude SRI with a BPi or BLOX velocity stack and filter before i get tuned sometime next week.

i already have a DC Sports 4-2-1 with a larger diamter flex pipe nd a GReddy SP2 exhaust.

thanks for the comments street and ghost accord.