look at this ****...how do you imagine this happened...? Soon as it cools down in a lil bit ill have my car runnin...hopefully. As long as that didnt destroy anything.


so i replaced the water pump and timing belt and my car is still over heating. My lower rad hose doesnt seem to be getting very much flow, its a lot cooler then the upper hose. No water will even come out of the bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing, even if i take the screw all the way out, with the car off or on!(no thermostat installed either) Also its making a weird clanking noise around the water pump. I'm supposing all the pieces from that water pump that are missing in the pic may be loose in my cooling system clanking around. What you think? How could i go about fixing that if its the problem...?






Modified by snowblind7x at 2:59 PM 8/29/2008

 

I think cheap coolant and it not being changed for a long time could cause this. Always run OEM coolant.

 

poor F'n thing!

Yeah, I would say your coolant became acidic and corroded the metal.

You should probably get your coolant checked if it hasn't been. Hoses too might need to be inspected if you been running acidic coolant for a while.

 

Probally using half water half coolant over extended periods of time.

That thing looks like it had major heat issues.

 

so i replaced the water pump and timing belt and my car is still over heating. My lower rad hose doesnt seem to be getting very much flow, its a lot cooler then the upper hose. No water will even come out of the bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing, even if i take the screw all the way out, with the car off or on!Also its making a weird clanking noise around the water pump. I'm supposing all the pieces from that water pump that are missing in the pic may be loose in my cooling system clanking around. What you think? How could i go about fixing that if its the problem...?

 

How old is the radiator?

 

sounds like you need a thermostat as well. at least for starters anyways, waybe more later. clanging noise are water pump? youch. did you check to see if there where pieces of the impeller left in the bore in the block? sounds like pieces lift in it.

 

Probably lots of corrosion deposits everywhere in your cooling system... plus probably some fins off the old water pump. One of those "super" flush products may help, but you may have to pull things apart to clean all the junk out. At a minimum I'd take apart the thermostat housing and clean that all out, then put it back together with a new thermostat. Does the heater work? That could help in the short term to prevent the engine from overheating.

 

If your water pump looks like that, I wonder how corroded the the inside of the radiator is. With heat exhangers, corrosion is the number one of the primary causes of inefficiency, get it cleaned and/or replaced. Also, there is nowhere that those pump blades can go, and if you haven't found them yet; DO NOT RUN THIS SYSTEM WITH CHUNKS OF METAL FLYING AROUND. Unless you want something catastrophic to happen like a blade wedging into the current water pump. Flush the system until you have a full count on the missing water pump blades.

You should get arrested by the Prelude Police for abuse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How old is the radiator?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the radiator is a known working one off my other prelude, probably a bad idea that i put it on there after seeing how my water pump looked, i may have just [freak]ed up that rad too.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REDLUDE4WS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like you need a thermostat as well. at least for starters anyways, waybe more later. clanging noise are water pump? youch. did you check to see if there where pieces of the impeller left in the bore in the block? sounds like pieces lift in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i forgot to mention i have no thermostat installed. Yeah thats what im thinking but i dont really know how to get the **** out without tearing my motor apart.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scheizty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your water pump looks like that, I wonder how corroded the the inside of the radiator is. With heat exhangers, corrosion is the number one of the primary causes of inefficiency, get it cleaned and/or replaced. Also, there is nowhere that those pump blades can go, and if you haven't found them yet; DO NOT RUN THIS SYSTEM WITH CHUNKS OF METAL FLYING AROUND. Unless you want something catastrophic to happen like a blade wedging into the current water pump. Flush the system until you have a full count on the missing water pump blades.

You should get arrested by the Prelude Police for abuse. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the thing is i dont think im gona get a full count of blades. look at that pump, who knows how many pieces it broke off into, i was hoping i had alreday flushed them all out cause before i changed the waterpump i flushed my cooling system who knows how many times. I'm gonna flush it a few more times today and try to let the water out of bigger places like hoses and what not to see if i can get any pieces out that maybe didnt fit through the drain plug.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i forgot to mention i have no thermostat installed. Yeah thats what im thinking but i dont really know how to get the **** out without tearing my motor apart.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's hard to tell with something like that... It's possible that the pieces could be lodged in the water jacket or the head. I know that you don't want to spend the money to do it, but I believe the best way to get it done is to pull the head and make sure it is gone. It'll cost you a head gasket and some down time, but it would be worth it if you replaced other things like the belts while you had the head off. If there is that extend of corrosion on the water pump, then I would be worried about what the entire cooling system may look like. I don't mean to sound like a dealership, but if it were my car, that is how I would treat it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scheizty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's hard to tell with something like that... It's possible that the pieces could be lodged in the water jacket or the head. I know that you don't want to spend the money to do it, but I believe the best way to get it done is to pull the head and make sure it is gone. It'll cost you a head gasket and some down time, but it would be worth it if you replaced other things like the belts while you had the head off. If there is that extend of corrosion on the water pump, then I would be worried about what the entire cooling system may look like. I don't mean to sound like a dealership, but if it were my car, that is how I would treat it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

couldnt i just take my car to a shop and get my cooling system flushed? They have some sort of vacuum or machine that could get any debri out, right?

 

Are you using distilled water with your coolant??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Akhany &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you using distilled water with your coolant??</TD></TR></TABLE>

...no...

 

those blades did not break off, they were eaten away. if you have no heat on lower hose w/o tstat installed, you have a really bad situation @ hand. is there flow in the rad (when you pop rad cap off, and rev motor, do you see coolant flowing?) if not, you have a blockage somewhere. it would seem at least almost impossible to completely block the flow of coolant, but ya know, i've never seen a pump that badly eaten away. that is seriously screwed up man. i dunno check it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

...no...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Using tap water or water from a hose with your coolant is not good.
The mineral deposits and other junk found in tap water can, and it most cases (with time), will eat away at your engine's internal walls.

 

Yes, if you're not using Honda coolant which is already mixed, make sure to use distilled water for the reasons Akhany said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REDLUDE4WS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those blades did not break off, they were eaten away. if you have no heat on lower hose w/o tstat installed, you have a really bad situation @ hand. is there flow in the rad (when you pop rad cap off, and rev motor, do you see coolant flowing?) if not, you have a blockage somewhere. it would seem at least almost impossible to completely block the flow of coolant, but ya know, i've never seen a pump that badly eaten away. that is seriously screwed up man. i dunno check it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe that it is a combination of the two. The material weakened due to the corrosion, and broke at the point of highest stress. I'm not sure of how else to explain the clicking noises that the op is hearing besides debris hitting the fan blades/waterpipe.

 

I agree with Scheizty, the fins probably started to deteriorate, then snapped off when stressed, so there are probably some peices in there.

Did you take off the coolant plug in the back of the block when draining/ flushing? It should allow any larger peices to come out of there, and a ton of flushing is in order here, and I would pull the rad and have it tested, then do not put the rad or water pump back in until you kow its all cleaned out, and I would pay some attention to the water pump area on the block, make sure theres no buildup of minerals that could damage your new pump or impede proper coolant flow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look at this ****...how do you imagine this happened...? Soon as it cools down in a lil bit ill have my car runnin...hopefully. As long as that didnt destroy anything.


so i replaced the water pump and timing belt and my car is still over heating. My lower rad hose doesnt seem to be getting very much flow, its a lot cooler then the upper hose. No water will even come out of the bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing, even if i take the screw all the way out, with the car off or on!(no thermostat installed either) Also its making a weird clanking noise around the water pump. I'm supposing all the pieces from that water pump that are missing in the pic may be loose in my cooling system clanking around. What you think? How could i go about fixing that if its the problem...?




Modified by snowblind7x at 2:59 PM 8/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Always, always, use OEM coolant. It cost a little extra, but you only need to replace it every 2 years at the most. You could probably go 5 years without a problem.

The reason your water pump is eaten away is because cheap coolant was used, it wasn't changed for a very long time and it became acidic. What does acid do to metal? Corrodes the crap out of it. Now all that corrosion is lodged in the pipe behind the water pump, in your heater core and probably a couple of other places too.

I doubt a flush will do anything for you. You will need to start taking things apart and blowing out the debris that has clogged your system. Air pressure is your friend.


Modified by cjo_28 at 2:33 PM 9/1/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with Scheizty, the fins probably started to deteriorate, then snapped off when stressed, so there are probably some peices in there.

Did you take off the coolant plug in the back of the block when draining/ flushing? It should allow any larger peices to come out of there, and a ton of flushing is in order here, and I would pull the rad and have it tested, then do not put the rad or water pump back in until you kow its all cleaned out, and I would pay some attention to the water pump area on the block, make sure theres no buildup of minerals that could damage your new pump or impede proper coolant flow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

where is this coolant plug on the back of the block?

 

so my car is throwing a code 12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve and a code 43 Fuel supply system all of a sudden. Whats the deal with those codes...?

 

your car is seeking revenge on you now due to poor treatment. It happens more often than you'd think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kalm_traveler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your car is seeking revenge on you now due to poor treatment. It happens more often than you'd think. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no it happens just as often as anyone with common sense might think. Obviously if you treat your car poorly it is gonna screw up. That being said, thanks for the non helpful input