I have this overheating problem that I've been trying to figure out but the question at hand is. What would happen if I disconnected the ATTS trans fluid lines from the Radiator. A) would the ATTS (which is just 50lbs of dead weight on the car) freez up and lock my trans out? B) burn up but not cause any driving problems? C) cause a break in the space time continum and destroy all life as we know it?

 

When I installed an aftermarket radiator, I simply took one of the rubber lines going to the ATF cooler from the hardline and looped it around to the other hardline (makes a "U" shape) so that fluid can still pass through, it's just not being cooled anymore. I would suggest this to prevent one of the other problems you mentioned from happening.

 

If your ATTS is disabled, just loop the lines.

If it is functional, definitely buy an automatic trans compatible radiator, or install a separate cooler for the ATTS unit. Those clutches, just like automatic trans clutches, generate a lot of heat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rob97’SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have this overheating problem that I've been trying to figure out but the question at hand is. What would happen if I disconnected the ATTS trans fluid lines from the Radiator. A) would the ATTS (which is just 50lbs of dead weight on the car) freez up and lock my trans out? B) burn up but not cause any driving problems? C) cause a break in the space time continum and destroy all life as we know it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Instead of taking the cooling away from the ATTS, why don't you check the condition of the radiator, the radiator cap, thermostat, coolant fan, etc... Just check the small things first before you potentially create another issue. hth.

-l8r

 

I missed that part. Amaury's right, removing the ATTS lines isn't going to change your cooling, especially if the atts is disabled. Aren't you using a turbo? Your car is 11 years old. More than likely, you probably just need a new/better radiator and to flush the system. You'll get a new cap with a new radiator, and the thermostat is cheap and easy enough to replace for good measure.

 

Yes the small things are being replaced. Radiator is less the a year old. 2 new 12'' fans , bleed system more times then I can remember. Last thing is the the therm which will be replaced tommorrow when the dealer gets it in. Now my though today was that it might be the fans rotation but that wasnt it. Then the thought that it might be the therm . The temp gets high with the A/C running or when the car idles a long time. But if I turn the heater on it will go down with in 10 seconds , which I found odd. Also using my laser temp gun , the temp at the front of the rad is about 160 f which I also found odd.


FYI I live in vegas and its been 100+ all summer long, one of the reasons I think I've had a hard time figuring this out.


Modified by Rob97'SH at 5:38 PM 8/28/2008

 

Hmm, that does sound like it could be a fan switch. I guess you're getting a new one tomorrow, but if you don't, you could try hooking up the fans to a constant 12v and see if that works. At least one of the fans should be running when the AC is on; have you verified this? This might sound stupid, but have you verified the fans are running at all (just wondering about a bad ground)?

 

nope both fans running and double checked for rotation.

 

Well I replaced the thermostat and no change. I had to step back and look at the cooling system. I think if I get a performance radiator I might fix the problem. Looking into Mishimoto radiator or a Koto , the Mishimoto is at the top of my list due to the dual core. Anyone running one of these? I take it that they are a direct fit.

 

You replaced the tstat, but did you replace the fan switch?

Have you had this problem since you went turbo? If so, you might need a better radiator if you replaced the old one with another OEM one. There are numerous options for direct fit aluminum radiators, however I don't think most have the cooler for the ATTS line as discussed previously. A lot of people seem to go Koyo and are fairly happy. I replaced mine with a C&R Racing (Visteon) and it's been great; the build quality is top notch. You can try upgrading hoses as well, but not sure how much it'll help.