Just reading about these
http://64.202.180.37/files/laminova.pdf

And wondering if anyone has tried one.

To me it looks like it goes inline on your radiator hose is that correct?

What are the pro's/Con's of this kinda setup.

I posted this on another forum but wanted to get some more input.

 

my water temps are already pretty touchy, i dont' want to add heat to it in any way i can help.

At button willon a few years ago there was a lotus with a k20 R and he had put one of those water/oil coolers on his car. After seeing some decently high oil temps, but never having a problem with his H20. Well his first time out to BW with the water/oil cooler he had his water temps get really high, high enough that he blew his HG.

 

There are two way to install this.
1. Install it inline with your radiator. Advantage is it will warm your oil faster. Disadvantage is the delta is smaller and thus cooling is less effective

2. Install it with a dedicated radiator. Advantage is the delta is big and will cool the oil really well. Disadvantage is sometime the cooling effect is so big, you will need to install a thermostat or restrictor.

In most cases, the first way install is pretty good. Even though the delta is much smaller than air to oil cooler, water have great cooling effect than air. Just like putting a bottle water to freezer take much longer time to cool the water than putting it into a cooler filled with ice and water.

Another example is it is faster to cool a water bottle on a cooler with water and ice than just ice alone.

This case is why most water to oil cooler is much smaller but has bigger btu than air to oil.

That being said, a system like this is usually much more hassle to install than a simple air to oil cooler.

 

BTW, we've used it in the NSX, first with a dedicated radiator but it was too cool. We then put it inline with the radiator and it works great. That being said, we have a huge radiator.

 

That's what I was thinking that it would be a good system if you had a large and effective radiator on the car thanks for the info on them Andrie.

 

I think my motor (b18c5) has a water-oil cooler stock. my oil temps never get above ~230, even in deep east texas in July.

so, it seems to work pretty well.

I do have a full size radiator too though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L8APX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think my motor (b18c5) has a water-oil cooler stock. my oil temps never get above ~230, even in deep east texas in July.

so, it seems to work pretty well.

I do have a full size radiator too though...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oil temps on my B18C5 were hitting 280+ at Buttonwillow in the middle of August, OEM cooling system, please note that this was with a ~2,700lb car with driver, interior, and fuel.

 

im a big fan of water to oil heat exchangers. I am using one on my H2 race car with a b16. It is the OEM GSR one. I have had some criticise me saying that it is too small and will not be effective enough, It appears to work just fine. And if you saw the compact size of the heat exchangers in the aircraft industry, you would be amazed.

I run it through the heater hoses. The engine warms up much easier, (the oil being heated first by the coolant ). I dont need a sandwich plate ( the cooler bolts right where the oil filter goes, then the filter on top of that. And I dont have the weight of an oil cooler and lines in the front of the car.

I do have a large fluidyne radiator, with well made intake ducting. I have run the car on 100+ degree days at BW and willow , and the coolant temps dont get over 185 !!! This is mainly due to the intake ducting. I am actually thinking of switching to a smaller radiator since the hot season is coming to an end

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oil temps on my B18C5 were hitting 280+ at Buttonwillow in the middle of August, OEM cooling system, please note that this was with a ~2,700lb car with driver, interior, and fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you may just be much faster than me...

I actually back off at about 120-125 in the straights and "coast." plenty fast for me...

 

I can't download the pdf file. It takes long. Anyway, going back to the topic I tried using water and didn't have any problem. But I would still prefer to use a fuel cooler

 

With the oem cooler on the jdm b18c, I'm seeing 260-280 in the pan and sub-200* water temp. I know todd used to run a howe rad with an oil cooer integraded into it that worked very well.
Any pix of that factory cooler to aftermarket core? I hate sandwich plates.

 

That won't do anything to help the oil temps though, which is the goal of the oil cooler (rather than just making more power). Just for kicks, do you have any pics of it?

Spencer, FWIW, I had better cooling with an air-to-oil cooler than with Todd's Howe unit. Temps have consistently been ~20-30* cooler going that route.

 

I'm rethinking th whole oil cooler thing but after my last set up that I was unhappy with (leaks and low psi) I'm hesitant to build another one.

 

I'm rethinking th whole oil cooler thing but after my last set up that I was unhappy with (leaks and low psi) I'm hesitant to build another one.

 

What sandwich plate were you using? Did you figure out if that was the failure point?

 

I know the feeling... I stuck with it, (on my H4 motor)

Here are some rules of thumb that i have learned.

1.) purchase only XRP or Earl's fittings. XRP is more $$ but i have never EVER had a problem with them. Earl's is GREAT and i have never had a problem with them leaking. Recently i have had some fittings that just plane wont go on. Returned to summit and received new ones no questions asked.

2.) Use -10 or -12 fittings. Use one or the other DO NOT mix and match sizes. The pressure drop typically come from a change in line/fitting size. -10 and -12 are very close to the OE sizes, so you are good to go with those.


3.) the cheaper coolers Perma-Cool types some times come leaking/cracked from who ever you buy them from. I had this happen on two coolers. Huge headach, huge mess, and REALLY hard to figure out that it is the actual cooler leaking. Earls, MoCal, and one other make some really really nice coolers. A racing buddy swears by the Perma-coolers, and has used a 3 to 5 of them on different projects, he has never had a problem so YMMV. My Earls oil cooler took a pretty big hit ~1 year ago, has a nice C bend/shape to it now and still works great.

 

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c...eat_Exchangers

Seems like this could be a very simple setup.

 

i didnt look at it. it may have been one of th eplugs on the plate leaking, may have been the o-ring. but either way off it came. i'm formulating a new plan for a new one that will be idiot proof.

 

hey renan, does your b16 have oil squirters? thats another source of heat that may cause a differential in oil temps. and i coulda sworn you had an aftermarket cooler on your car. guess not.

 

spenc,

check the date of this thread... and of his post...

 

yea, i just did that. own3d