Alright, I need some help here please! I have a JDM 94 GSR (B18C) motor swapped into my 93 Honda Civic Coupe. The ECU keeps on firing a CEL code (knock sensor code) only when the motor is reved passed 3000-3500 RPM. When the motor is kept below, it will never come on. Now, I changed the knock sensor to a new one and unfortunately, it still comes on. I checked the codes again and now the ECU is firing both code 20 and 23 (Electronic Load Detection and Knock Sensor). The motor does not have any detonation or pinging whatsoever, my logical assumption would be either faulty wiring (loose connection) or a fallty ECU. I double checked and all wiring is conected in the right slots, but it could be that the conenction is loose. I'm not too familiar with the Electronic Load Detection code, so could anyone give me some suggestions to why these two codes are firing and what my next step should be! Thanks in advance.

 

what ecu are you running?

 

It is an P72 ECU.


Modified by 93EJ2 at 9:02 PM 8/25/2008

 

Take the ELD out (its under the fuse box in the engine bay) and try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner, and maybe replace if cleaning doesnt help.

 

chip ecu, turn knock off.. problem solved.. also what engine harness?

 

i dont think he has a knock sensor?

obd1 doesnt have knock?

 

do you have a obd1 to obd2 jumper harness?

and if you do what harness are you running?

P61: 92-93 OBD-1 Integra GSR
P72: 94-95 OBD-1 Integra GSR
P72: 96-00 OBD-2 Integra GSR
P73: 96-00 OBD-2 Integra Type-R (JDM & USDM)
P74/75: 92-95 OBD-1 Integra LS/GS
P75: 96-00 OBD-2 Integra LS/GS

 

My 93 Civic was an ODB1, which is why I got an 94 ODB1 GSR motor & harness (as well as for the simplicity of the diagnostic format). Also, yes the ODB1 GSR does have a knock sensor. Any ideas guys? Really hit a stump with this one. Thanks again for the replies.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Lobster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think he has a knock sensor?

obd1 doesnt have knock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it does, we just went through this with my roomates b18c into a 95 civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chip ecu, turn knock off.. problem solved.. also what engine harness?</TD></TR></TABLE>

BINGO BANGO that`ll fix it, it also has something to do with the dual butterfly in the manifold. a aftermarket one such as skunk would also help you out but chipping your ecu is gonna be the cheapest and most effective way out of this.....dont waste AL THAT $$$ on a knock sensor

also run an ex harness if you can

i would suggest just buying a p72 from pherable.net ....phearable....fuggg spelling
itll most likely come with a 4-5k vtec and 8k rev with the knock sensor no longer being an issue. youll be just fine

 

I thought the 92-95 civics don't come with a knock sensor and need to have wiring run to the ecu to have it work. Or as already posted chip the ecu and have it turned off

 

which shock tower to ECU harness did you use?
The civic harness will not have the knock wire, you need to add it, it's a shielded wire, mic wire from radioshack works great.

The CEL for knock sensor will only set after a while, the 3k RPM range sounds about right.

as far as the ELD code, JDM or USED P72? (first digit after the P72-?xx, A = USDM, 0 = JDM)

 

^also true....i had a chipped p28 ecu always gave me hell...i twas a jdm ecu i finally just got rid of it .

 

did you wire up the knock sensor? cause its gona go off if you didnt run wires from the knock sensor to the ecu. you have to put it in yourself.

 

You said "The CEL for knock sensor will only set after a while, the 3k RPM range sounds about right.", but this is not a normal sign and it does not solve my problem. Having the ECU fire "code 20" everytime the revolutions pass 3000 is not a good indication. Also, for everyone that tells me to "chip" my ECU, is this a good way of fixing the problem? It seems to me that by doing that, you only shut off the knock sensor's job by ignoring it. Because in reality the knock sensor is very useful in balancing and timing fuel consumption to prevent detonation. If this function is turned off, you relieve yourself from the annoying CEL light, but your car wouldn't run optimally. So I guess the real question I'm asking here is if by "chipping" my ECU actually, in fact, shut off the knock sensor's job? I'm still up for some more suggestions. Thanks.

- PS. The P72 ECU I have is a JDM one. Also, for everyone asking me if I actually wired the knock sensor, the answer is yes, I did (I wish the solution was that easy). The project swap was completed by a professional honda tuning shop and like I said, I rechecked all wiring and everything was slotted in the right place.



Modified by 93EJ2 at 12:42 PM 8/26/2008

 

you dont chip an ecu to over look a knock sensor its just one of the things that come along with doing it....anyone with a chipped gsr does not read a knock sensor. room mate went through the same crap you are way back and hes kicking *** an takin names now adays, hes had a bad knock sensor ever sence he got the swap. and if you really plan on doing anything with this engine your eventually gonna end up chipping your ecu anyways

 

I am aware that you don't "chip" an ECU solely to overlook the knock sensor, but along with advancing ignition and fuel timing, it WILL cut off the knock sensor, no? I'm going to re-wire and re-pin the knock sensor with a new wire and let you guys know if it was just connectivity problems. Thanks.

 

chipping the ecu is just a half a$$ way of taking care of the problem. its really not even hard to wire up the knock sensor and if you ever plan on getting your car ref'd the ref checks.

 

it is wired

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93EJ2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The project swap was completed by a professional honda tuning shop</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok so if a pro did it then its his problem not yours.. you paid him to doit, so take it back to him

 

^exactly

 

I have brought it back a few times for some minor check ups but installation was their only task. The motor and all required parts came from another source of my own. What seems to be the problem here is not their installation, but some parts on the motor that are faulty, therefore I would be only paying more for their diagnostic and labor, which is why I rather figure it out for myself. Thanks for your input though.

 

whats the scoop now?