About to attempt to install an alarm for the first time. Local shops are charging too much for what I'm looking for, I can save myself about $200 and do it my way and know how it works. This is what's going in:

Viper 350HV
DEI 520T backup battery
Omega AU-94TM radar sensor
DEI 506T glass break sensor
Piezo Siren


For the most part I got everything drawn out and have a good idea of how I'm gonna wire everything up, but there's a few questions:

1. I've seen writeups on the AU-94T, it says something about switching warn (green) and the alarm (blue) wires up. Well the AU-94TM looks to be wired correctly. Am I wrong? Also, when connecting the sensors, they can be daisy chained right? The 506T comes with the Y cable, but 2nd sensors prewarn wire is looped into the alarm trigger. So Do I cut the loop and run the blue wire from the 506T sensor (which is supposed to be the green wire for a traditional shock sensor) as the green wire for the AU-94T?

2. For the door lock wires, the instructions state that relays need to be used, but looking at some writeups, it doesn't mention anything about them, so are they necessary or no?

3. The trigger wire... Hood Pin / Trunk trigger / backup battery... Let me make sure I get this right. This is the path of the wire: Brain > Backup battery > 2x diodes (stripe facing sensor) > 1 diode leads to hood and other to trunk trigger. Only 2 diodes right?

 

I would rather have someone install it. you should have bought it somewhere else where they can install it if you buy...

 

1. No, sensors cannot be "daisy chained". Additional sensors can be added to one input on the alarm, but they need to be diode-isolated from each other.

2. Don't know because you didn't bother to tell us year/make/model of the car.

3. Shouldn't need any diodes for a hoodpin or trunk trigger.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. Shouldn't need any diodes for a hoodpin or trunk trigger.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess if you don't mind the hood pin causing the trunk light on your cluster to come on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. Don't know because you didn't bother to tell us year/make/model of the car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

97 Integra LS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hueyduey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

97 Integra LS

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the vehicle came with factory power locks, then no, relays aren't needed.

 

If you do not mind the trunk/hatch light and trunk/hatch open warning light in your cluster coming on when you open the hood, then a diode is not needed on the hood pin trigger lead.

If you were not connecting the backup batt. trigger wire to the hood/trunk trigger input on the alarm you would also not need a diode on the trunk/hatch either, but because you do have the backup batt. you will need to install a diode on at least the trunk/hatch lead, before where it, [trunk/hatch lead] is connected to the alarms hood/trunk trigger input as the output trigger from the backup batt. is a low current ground, [no more the 500mA] the trunk/hatch light needs more then 500mA, if a diode is not installed on the trunk/hatch line to isolate the trunk/hatch light from the low current ground trigger of the backup batt. the load the light puts on the backup batt. trigger circuit will blow the circuit. 94

 

So for the most part everything went well. It took me about 6 hours from tearing my car apart to having the remote working. I got the alarm installed, and for the most part I didn't have to go back and check any wires.

Except for today when I noticed the door trigger isn't working. It was the sensitivity of the shock sensor that was setting off my doors when I was testing it.

I've read here and there about this wire and let me make sure I got things right:

It's the lime green / red (the thick one) wire running along the drivers door. I have this running into both the domelight and door trigger of the alarm... I tapped the wire in the green rectangular factory wire loom of the drivers running board. Sound like the right wire right? Maybe a different location to tap this wire?

Oh and props goes out to:
http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html - SuspendedHatch
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2368830 - VegaS10
http://www.the12volt.com
fcm

to making my first alarm install that much easier. I probably would have [freak]ed something up big-time if I was to just follow the alarm's install manual.

 

The wire is light green/red, it is the thicker wire, mostly insulation, it is found on the bigger of the two gray plugs on the lower drivers kick panel, under cruise control module, [if you have CC].

" I have this running into both the domelight and door trigger of the alarm"

If you mean the door trigger and the domelight control output lead... H1/4 - BLACK/WHITE (-) 200 mA Domelight Supervision Output
then you installed a relay that you connected the black/white lead to and then connected the relays output to the light green/red along with the door trigger lead, right?

H1/4 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200 mA domelight supervision output
Connect the H1/4 wire to the optional domelight supervision relay as shown in the following diagram:

IMPORTANT! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected
directly to the domelight circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more bulbs. from page 6 of install guide. 94