All i really saw after searching was that the bushings take a **** in the blox arms, what about the others? for an EK

 

there all the same, OEM FTW

 

my omni bushings started to crumble/tear around a month ago

 

Older Omni versions, Blox, SRR, Megan racing all have serious issues with bushing failures.

If you are dead set on replacing yours, the stick to the newest OmniPower or Function7.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by batallic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there all the same, OEM FTW</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

what about the Function/Form LCAs??


I just picked them up myself to go with the F/F Coilovers, not so much for the bling factor but because i have a DX and i want to install rear sway bar here as my next mod

? ?

 

I have them, but in black. Got them for the same reason. I'd like to be able to install a rear sway bar in the future.

I don't know if you're supposed to feel a significant difference with LCA's installed, but I really don't feel any difference in ride quality.

I just hope that there won't be any difficulties installing an ASR combo with these LCA's.

 

OEM or Function7. Everything else belongs in the garbage.

 

I have never heard anything bad about the Skunk2's. I have had them for a year now on my DD and havent had any problems. I would say F7's or S2's if you are looking for after market.

 

oem

 

thats kinda dumb to say. it a chunk of billet with a bushing. when the bushing wears out you put in a new one/better one. most of them have the same size hole as oem. press oem bushings into the aftermarket lca's. then you have a litter arm with good bushings and swaybar holes. opposed to used rear lcas with probably junk bushings or pay a retarded amount for new oem ones that are still just stock arms that are ***** heavy.

 

i daily drove/auto-x/drag raced on my PIC RR spherical bearing LCAS in my ej2 for over a year and had absolutely no problems with them tearing, or anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1995civicEJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i daily drove/auto-x/drag raced on my PIC RR spherical bearing LCAS in my ej2 for over a year and had absolutely no problems with them tearing, or anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm, that would be because spherical's don't tear.

 

Had Blox. Bushings ripped withing six months.
OEM w/poly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats kinda dumb to say. it a chunk of billet with a bushing. when the bushing wears out you put in a new one/better one. most of them have the same size hole as oem. press oem bushings into the aftermarket lca's. then you have a litter arm with good bushings and swaybar holes. opposed to used rear lcas with probably junk bushings or pay a retarded amount for new oem ones that are still just stock arms that are ***** heavy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM LCAs are like $70, if you get Civic Si arms then you can hook up a sway bar to them. The bushings on the aftermarket ones suck, I'd rather get new OEM ones than have to pull them apart again to replace teh crap bushings within 2 months.

 

i think the f7's are awesome. there fully machined 7075 and weigh only 2lbs. 7075 aluminum &gt; 6061 aircraft grade. and there bushings are stiff and seem to hold up good.

pic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a1eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Had Blox. Bushings ripped withing six months. </TD></TR></TABLE>
now, because I'm pretty new to this, how were you able to determine the bushings ripped? i.e. ride like ****? etc.. I'm just curious because I want to know how to be able to identify the symptoms if it happens to me

 

No you can physically see it. An OEM bushing (most companies use the same design) is a metal sleeve surrounded by rubber, which it then surrounded by another metal sleeve. Typically these aftermarket arms will have issues with the rubber separating from the outer sleeve.....allowing all kinds of unwanted suspension movement.

More often than not, the bushing failure goes unnoticed....you need to either check them very closely, or disassemble to inspect......just jacking it up doesn't always catch it.

 

The only rear LCA that is worth 2 nickels in my book is one that has the sway bar holes in the STOCK location. There are soooo many POS arms that just stick a hole in the middle of the arm and expect you to connect an end link to that. That will result in serious sway bar end link geometry problems. The sway bar hole should be near the TOP of the arm, like the OEM LCA pictured above. Function7 and the new OmniPower LCA's are the only ones I have seen that have the hole(s) in the correct location.

So if your only reason for getting aftermarket arms is to be able to run a rear sway bar, then make sure the hole is in the correct location. Otherwise, you're wasting money.

This is NOT the correct location for the sway bar end link hole:





Modified by PatrickGSR94 at 12:49 PM 8/19/2008

 

Just use your existing arms. Stock EK rear control arms are lightweight and the sway bar link holes are included on all models.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it a chunk of billet with a bushing. when the bushing wears out you put in a new one/better one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's fine, but installing a set of control arms and then having to re-bush them every 6 months thereafter is unacceptable. OE Honda bushings typically last 6+ years with no maintenance.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most of them have the same size hole as oem. press oem bushings into the aftermarket lca's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So have you actually done this, or are you just speculating?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or pay a retarded amount for new oem ones that are still just stock arms that are ***** heavy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
New OE rear lower control arms with sway bar link holes come preloaded with bushings for about $94 per side, and can be bought at any local Honda dealership parts department.

To give you a comparison, mfactory's spherical bearing control arms are $125 per side, Omnipower's revised arms are $120 per side, Function7 arms are $145-170 per side for sphericals and $115-140 per side for polyurethane, Skunk2 are $115 per side, KSport are $100 per side, F2 are $90 per side, Megan Racing arms are $75 per side, PIC arms are $67 per side, and Blox arms are $65 per side.

As you can see, the pricing of the OEM arms is competitive with those arms listed above that have bushings known to last longer than 6 months (current Omnis, F7s, Skunk2s); it's hardly a "retarded amount" for arms of known good quality. They're also not "***** heavy." Honda's EF/EG/DA/DC arms generally run about 2lbs heavier apiece than the aftermarket aluminum replacements; considering that each rear corner already has over 60lbs of unsprung weight in the average stock Civic or Integra, it's a drop in the bucket. OEM EK arms are light enough that I doubt there is a significant difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only rear LCA that is worth 2 nickels in my book is one that has the sway bar holes in the STOCK location. There are soooo many POS arms that just stick a hole in the middle of the arm and expect you to connect an end link to that. That will result in serious sway bar end link geometry problems. The sway bar hole should be near the TOP of the arm, like the OEM LCA pictured above. Function7 and the new OmniPower LCA's are the only ones I have seen that have the hole(s) in the correct location.

So if your only reason for getting aftermarket arms is to be able to run a rear sway bar, then make sure the hole is in the correct location. Otherwise, you're wasting money.

This is NOT the correct location for the sway bar end link hole:



Modified by PatrickGSR94 at 12:49 PM 8/19/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah shiet, those look like the F2s i bought (as far as endlink location goes)

shall I return my for funciton 7s?

 

K.I.S.S.

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Hon....html

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Hon....html

 

sway bar is nice. but stock endlinks wont work with the f7's or possibly some of the other rlca's. i know the f7's are pretty thick and the stock endlinks on my car wouldnt work. if you got some longer bolts then they would.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To give you a comparison, ... Function7 arms are $145-170 per side for sphericals and $115-140 per side for polyurethane...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your pricing is a little on the high side for the Function7s.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...
They're also not "***** heavy." Honda's EF/EG/DA/DC arms generally run about 2lbs heavier apiece than the aftermarket aluminum replacements; considering that each rear corner already has over 60lbs of unsprung weight in the average stock Civic or Integra, it's a drop in the bucket. OEM EK arms are light enough that I doubt there is a significant difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I once measured the weight of a stock LCA to be 6lbs, and the Function7 replacements are 2.5lbs. This really depends on which one you put on the scale. The GSR version has an S bend along with a swaybar mount, which accounts for a larger weight difference, vs the LCAs which do not have a swaybar mounting location. This nets a slightly bigger difference than you've noted. It may be no big difference to the average Joe, but to someone who is trying to remove as much unsprung weight as possible for a more "active/reactive" suspension, lightweight LCAs are an option. They are also considered a dress up option, but then agian, so are carbon fiber hoods/hatches

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm602 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sway bar is nice. but stock endlinks wont work with the f7's or possibly some of the other rlca's. i know the f7's are pretty thick and the stock endlinks on my car wouldnt work. if you got some longer bolts then they would.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but that's an easy fix. Other cheaper LCA's with the hole down in the center of the LCA won't work with stock end links at all.