so today i decided to pull my oil pan and see if pounding the dent out fixed anything of my vtec issue... it did not help, Also i cleaned the idle air control valve and reinstalled it... no fix, but now since i have done that my car runs like absolute ******* while warming up (1500rpm) until the rpm drops, and it runs like *** even when i am driving after it has warmed up but only at 1500 to like 1750 rpm. Now i also changed the coolant line routing. The line that goes from the head to the throttle body to the idle air control valve and back to the hard pipe on the back of the block... i looped it to bypass both the throttle body and iacv, Was it a bad thing to remove coolant flow to either the throttle body or the iacv? i had a jumpy idle after warming up before, now that is gone and has been replaced by this 1500rpm nonsense.


PLUS NO GOD DAMN VTEC...STILL

cleaned the screen on the vtec solenoid... both o them, they were not at all dirty, but cleaned them anyway.

Vtec Solenoid is working, i swapped in a oil pressure switch that i know is good. I THINK my oil pressure is good. any ideas? even on the 1500rpm issue?


oh yea, B18c motor in del sol turbo tuned on crome p28



Modified by zimmy709 at 10:45 PM 8/12/2008

 

Do you have any codes?

 

in to kno if thurr is codes to!!

 

did u use a new gasket on anything you removed from the IM? you might have a vacume leak, try taking some starter fluid/carb cleaner etc and spraying it around seals like the TB IACV FITV etc. if the speed or tone of the engine changes, u have a leak. just pull it off and either replace the gasket, or use rtv sealant.

 

aaahhhh... it could be a vacuum leak around the throttle body, i didn't think of that, and that may account for my odd 1500 rpm new problem, but i still don't have vtec. Anyways, i'll try that when i get home today...

as fort codes, i tried to check it but it doesn't show any, but is the ecu still capable of throwing codes after it is chipped and tuned on crome? i'm gonna get with my tuner on that quesstion, but if anyone knows feeel free to chime in.

also ok, other possible need to know info is that I am 100% posative that all my harness plugs are plugged into their correct places... i checked that. I also was previous to the 1500rpm issue and still am having start up problems, i have to give it a bit of gas to get it to start, and my fuel pressure gauge drops off to 0psi when i shut the car off, which it never did before i started having issues with my car starting, this may be why it takes a few seconds to start up.

 

yes, you can throw codes after being chipped, as for the fpr issue, i dont know, I dont have a gauge on my rail so i dk what it does after i shut it off, wait for some one else to chime in.

oh, and bypassing the FITV on the bottom of the TB is not a good idea cause it is controlled by coolant temp.... if you dont have one, then i guess it is fine. as far as coolant to the IACV goes, i think it is there to warm it up and keep it moving freely, i dk if it is that big of a deal.

 

if your car jolts every time you hit 1500 rpm then you may have not plugged the iacv back in when putting everything back together.. happened to me b4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16aeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your car jolts every time you hit 1500 rpm then you may have not plugged the iacv back in when putting everything back together.. happened to me b4</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea or u could have plugged the purge solenoid plug into the iacv cuz they bout have the same plug and r in the same area. .as far as the pressure goin to 0psi on shut off. .that would have alot to do w start up. .when u shut ur car off the injectors spray a bit of fuel into the cyl to help w start up. .check ur fuel filter. .that could be part of y it.s goin to 0psi.

 

i doubt but will check the fuel filter, as it ws changes about 7000miles ago and has been fine. but i will check. What wire colors are going into the iacv plug? i avtually didn't unplug the other, but i guess it is possible that they got mixed up. the iacv is most definately plugged in, but here's what's interesting, i have heard that if i unplug it while it is running that it will bring idle to normal while it is warming up where it should be higher, but my eingine dies completely when i unplug it.... any ideas on this? when i plug it back in i can hear it click, should i hear this even while it's not running but the key is on?

thanks for all the ideas and help guys!

 

that purge plug u do not use on most apps. .especially if u r runnin an aftamarket im. .so if this is the case then u coulda jus grabbed the wrong plug. .yea dont unplug it while runnin it.ll jus throw a code.

but when i read back u say that it doesnt throw codes. .but u can turn this off when chipping/piggyback/standalone systems.

also i think part of the surgy idle is cuz ur not runnin the coolant lines thru the iacv cuz when my iacv wenta **** it would surge while the motor was still cold(closed loop) but when the motor gotta operatin temp it would not surge at idle!

 

well all is re routed as it whould be stock now and i still have the problem, i think the cel code option must be deactiveted on my tune, because it didn't throw a light even when i had the iacv unplugged.

So that extra plug, i'll have to check into it, because i'm using my d16z6 harness on this motor with added wiring for the knock sensor which is now deactivated. but i know there was an extra plug when i did the swap. so maybe while cleaning i accidentally got them switched, i'll go take a look.

by the way, it still has the surge at that same 1500 rpm even when up to temperature if i hold the throttle at 1500rpm... it's not an idle issue, just a coincidence that it idles around there when cold.

The idle properly drops down when it warms up.

again, thanks for all your help guys, keep it comin, lets figure this thing out, drive/fly to Pittsburgh after we get it workin and i'll buy you beers... lol


Modified by zimmy709 at 6:53 PM 8/13/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zimmy709 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
by the way, it still has the surge at that same 1500 rpm even when up to temperature if i hold the throttle at 1500rpm... it's not an idle issue, just a coincidence that it idles around there when cold.

The idle properly drops down when it warms up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think im already drunk. .lol. .i cant understand this. .what im makin out of it. .cold start it idles around 1500 n then surges. .u hold the throttle so it doesnt surge???. .but when car warms up idle smooths out. .prolle down to like 7-800 range rite??

 

sorry i confused myself with that one. ok, what i was trying to say was that it idles when cold at around 1500rpm, then it will get warm and drop back where it should around 7-800rpm so all is well in that department. but when it is idling at teh 1500rpm mark, it is surging. However i do not think this is an idle issue, because it also does the same thing if i hold the throttle so that the motor sits at 1500rpm even when it is warm. so basically throw idling problem out the window. i suddenly have a weird pain in the *** from 1500-1750 in my rpm range that i never had before. what i am trying to say is that when i drive, if i put any kind of load on the motor at the 1500-1750 rpm range, it falls on it's face until i get past it. This is all new and seemingly created by something i did when cleaning the iacv. this included removing my top cold pipe, removing my tps, removing my throttle body, and removing my iacv.... i removed all of these becaus i changed the coolant routing which i have now returned to stock, and the problem is still here.


Edit side note... when it is in this falling on it's face rpm range my wideband is showing off the charts lean.... why i have no idea idling to warm up here it would usually be a bit rich at like 13.2-13.5


Modified by zimmy709 at 9:47 PM 8/13/2008

 

k one. .that is an idle prob n it is the iacv. .u also needa loosen ur throttle cable a bit too cuz if u put ur foot barely on the gas n it goes straight to 1500 ur cable must be a bit tite.

the reason it.s not runnin like *** is cuz u needa recalibrate ur tps since u took it as well as otha stuff off.

hope this straightens it out fo u!! good luck.

 

thanks man, sorry i may have confused you again, it's not that i put my foot barely on the gas to get it to 1500... i was just saying that if i make it sit at 1500, because i know that is where the problem is that it will do it, not just on warm up idle

but as for recalibrating the tps, how do i do this? just adjust it within the slotted holes that the screws pass through?

do you think the iacv needs to be replaced? or can it be fixed/adjusted?

 

haha, also quick sidenote Egezzy.... i don't know what timezone you are in, but i think as it gets later you're grammar gets worse... haha, or maybe it's that drunk thing. I appreciate all the help none the less!

 

k i got the whole 1500 thing now. .umm the reason it does that is cuz now the buttafly is open. .so yea u should replace the iacv since it was bad to begin w.

as far as calibratin the tps. .do u have a dvom aka multimeter??

n haha no i dont drink. .i text hella so it is kinda how i talk on the web too. .lol. .n inperson too. .lol. .sorry. .but i hope this is helpin u!!!! n ps yea it.s almost 1am n i gotta work n the am. .so bed hurr i come!

 

here is a link to recaibrate your tps, pretty straight forward

http://www.hondacivicforum.com...33103

 

ok, so the issue with the 1500rpm thing was the wrong plug plugged into the iacv... still no vtec, but the idle air control valve is within spec and working.

 

hell i hate this thing, this is the third time i have typed this message and it is getting shorter every time... forgot to log in.

OK... i'm thinking of throwing the car back on the p72 ecu with stock injectors and pulling my cold pipe and throwing my old short ram and filter on her and seeing what she does for kicks. i supose i'll bespooling a turbo for no good reason, but i'm outta ideas.


anyone have any objections?

 

yes, you cannot just disconnect the piping, the turbo will over spool and you will mess up the turbo. take it off and put ur header back on.

 

even just idling? i was going to just check for codes, not even drive it anywhere

 

Its fine just idleing, but anyload will make it spool pretty fast.