installed race konis. now bottoming out... :(
So I installed race konis (8041 1152RACE) on the front of my (track only) GC, and while the ride seems very good now, I bounce off the bump stop when going over deep dips (or big bumps).
I really only have about an inch or so of travel before hitting the bump stops. I have the bump stops cut in half too...
I have 500 lb springs in the front too, but I guess that's not enough.
I also realized that they are bound adjustable after installing them.
I guess I'll take them back off and stiffen up the bound a little. hopefully that'll help keep me off the bump stops.
worst case I'll put the 600 lb'ers from the back on the front and get some 700's for the back... (I really don't want to increase the ride height; am at about 5" now).
anyway... wish I'd read the instructions and realized that they are bound and rebound adjustable...
I'm selling my Mugen dampers, btw...
I really only have about an inch or so of travel before hitting the bump stops. I have the bump stops cut in half too...
I have 500 lb springs in the front too, but I guess that's not enough.I also realized that they are bound adjustable after installing them.
I guess I'll take them back off and stiffen up the bound a little. hopefully that'll help keep me off the bump stops.worst case I'll put the 600 lb'ers from the back on the front and get some 700's for the back... (I really don't want to increase the ride height; am at about 5" now).
anyway... wish I'd read the instructions and realized that they are bound and rebound adjustable...
I'm selling my Mugen dampers, btw...
I'm measuring to the bottom of the body where the LCA's mount, and am using 8" springs, front and rear.
not low-downs, but NZ (sometimes called N-Zero). here's the only description I can find (about 2/3 of the way down):http://www.kingmotorsports.com...at=44
not low-downs, but NZ (sometimes called N-Zero). here's the only description I can find (about 2/3 of the way down):http://www.kingmotorsports.com...at=44
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie Hartanto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 8041-1152 koni is signle adjustable. Only the rebound.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, i guess your gonna haveta look elsewhere. maybe switching up the springs like you mentioned might help
yup, i guess your gonna haveta look elsewhere. maybe switching up the springs like you mentioned might help
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G’Funk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yup, i guess your gonna haveta look elsewhere. maybe switching up the springs like you mentioned might help
</TD></TR></TABLE>
rebound and compression adjustments should be used to help fine tune the car, not to make up for a lack of spring.
yup, i guess your gonna haveta look elsewhere. maybe switching up the springs like you mentioned might help
</TD></TR></TABLE>rebound and compression adjustments should be used to help fine tune the car, not to make up for a lack of spring.
Looks like you need more front spring and a slightly higher ride height. Hell, my significantly lighter ITA CRX was using 500# up front and I thought the rates were a bit on the soft side...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie Hartanto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 8041-1152 koni is signle adjustable. Only the rebound.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm, the instructions show how to adjust bound. They say hold in a vice, fully compress and then turn up to 720 degrees for compression adjustment.
the part number is 8041-1152RACE, not the off the shelf Koni Yellows, if that makes any difference.
???
extended top hats do sound good too, but I guess I couldn't use my strut tower bar any more. not sure it makes much difference anyway.
TimK
hmmm, the instructions show how to adjust bound. They say hold in a vice, fully compress and then turn up to 720 degrees for compression adjustment.
the part number is 8041-1152RACE, not the off the shelf Koni Yellows, if that makes any difference.
???
extended top hats do sound good too, but I guess I couldn't use my strut tower bar any more. not sure it makes much difference anyway.
TimK
extended top hats aren't a good idea with shortened shocks.
you need more spring.
that is how you adjust the koni "red" it is a generic catch all instruction manual. And that isn't adjusting bound it is adjusting rebound
you need more spring.
that is how you adjust the koni "red" it is a generic catch all instruction manual. And that isn't adjusting bound it is adjusting rebound
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">extended top hats aren't a good idea with shortened shocks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess it depends on how much droop travel you have.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess it depends on how much droop travel you have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess it depends on how much droop travel you have. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the race konis are shortened by 25mm and the extended top hats are 1.75inchs of droop reduction.
good luck getting any adjust ability in height with that setup. In the rates he is running a 7 inch or 8 inch spring is necessary. that means NO adjustment.
I guess it depends on how much droop travel you have. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the race konis are shortened by 25mm and the extended top hats are 1.75inchs of droop reduction.
good luck getting any adjust ability in height with that setup. In the rates he is running a 7 inch or 8 inch spring is necessary. that means NO adjustment.
Get top hats that only extend by 1/2-3/4", then.
The other thing I don't understand is why people run such shorty springs. If you run a 7" 500# spring, the weight of the car is going to compress the spring 2.5". The spring only has about 4" stroke, which means you have 1.5" till coil bind. If you hit the brakes and put most of the weight on the front wheels, you've just used up all the stroke of the springs. Good thing for bumpstops, huh?
Modified by beanbag at 5:09 AM 8/8/2008
The other thing I don't understand is why people run such shorty springs. If you run a 7" 500# spring, the weight of the car is going to compress the spring 2.5". The spring only has about 4" stroke, which means you have 1.5" till coil bind. If you hit the brakes and put most of the weight on the front wheels, you've just used up all the stroke of the springs. Good thing for bumpstops, huh?
Modified by beanbag at 5:09 AM 8/8/2008
In my experience with the race vavled konis, the upper control arms hit the frame before the shocks bottom out.
Raise your ride height.
Konis dont' have much compression dampening at all and they are extremely digressive. I hated mine.
Raise your ride height.
Konis dont' have much compression dampening at all and they are extremely digressive. I hated mine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The other thing I don't understand is why people run such shorty springs. If you run a 7" 500# spring, the weight of the car is going to compress the spring 2.5". The spring only has about 4" stroke, which means you have 1.5" till coil bind. If you hit the brakes and put most of the weight on the front wheels, you've just used up all the stroke of the springs. Good thing for bumpstops, huh?
Modified by beanbag at 5:09 AM 8/8/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? the math I was doing was that my car weighs maybe 1400 lbs in the front (max), and that that would compress each spring maybe 1.5 inches tops. I have WAY more spring left than I do shock travel...
with the car sitting, I have maybe 1.5 inches of travel before hitting the bumpstops. I dont think i'll hit the bumpstops under braking or cornering, but I may on a bump or dip.
problem is, there's a bumpy transition right in the middle of turn 1 of TWS (my home track). I may try it the way it is. there are a variety of placies I can drive accross that transition. maybe the car islight enough to not cause me any bottoming out issues.
The other thing I don't understand is why people run such shorty springs. If you run a 7" 500# spring, the weight of the car is going to compress the spring 2.5". The spring only has about 4" stroke, which means you have 1.5" till coil bind. If you hit the brakes and put most of the weight on the front wheels, you've just used up all the stroke of the springs. Good thing for bumpstops, huh?
Modified by beanbag at 5:09 AM 8/8/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? the math I was doing was that my car weighs maybe 1400 lbs in the front (max), and that that would compress each spring maybe 1.5 inches tops. I have WAY more spring left than I do shock travel...
with the car sitting, I have maybe 1.5 inches of travel before hitting the bumpstops. I dont think i'll hit the bumpstops under braking or cornering, but I may on a bump or dip.
problem is, there's a bumpy transition right in the middle of turn 1 of TWS (my home track). I may try it the way it is. there are a variety of placies I can drive accross that transition. maybe the car islight enough to not cause me any bottoming out issues.
If your car weighs 1400 lbs in the front, that's 700 lbs each side. x 1.5 motion ratio, and the force on each spring is 1050 lbs divided by 500, so your springs compress about 2" static.
I also don't hit the bumpstops under normal braking or cornering, but when doing a downhill decreasing radius turn, or a turn with undulations, I do hit the bumpstops, which causes random understeer. I plan to extend my tophats about 0.5" or so
I also don't hit the bumpstops under normal braking or cornering, but when doing a downhill decreasing radius turn, or a turn with undulations, I do hit the bumpstops, which causes random understeer. I plan to extend my tophats about 0.5" or so
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