So I have a 93 cx hatch, with basically a poormans type r swap in it.
It turns out the guy I bought it from and had swap it in said it was a better motor than it really was. It has a b16 head with omni valves springs and retainers. Which I've seen. Then he said the block is a gsr bored 40 over with sleeves and ctr pistons. I haven't seen the block apart so I'm going off his word there.

Now, the problem: (sorry if I turn this into a novel but I want to give all the data)

We swapped the motor in the beginning of January 08. I'd say middle of February it started having some blow by. I had a guy look at it and he told me that the piston rings weren't perfect but it wasn't a huge issue. As time went on it kept getting worse. I drove it for a while then got a compression test. I believe it was 180, 185, 190, 205. Which for this set up is pretty low isn't it? So as far as I was concerned, it needed new rings and I couldn't do them so I was just driving it like this. Well, that worked out fine untill Friday night. I was on it hard from 2nd to 3rd I'd say 7k rpms right around there. Once I come to a stop, the car sputters and dies. No crazy noises, just sputters and dies. I look back and see a bunch of white smoke. I pop hood and look around. There were no apparent issues. At first I thought it was something fuel related. I get back in and try to start it again. Its really weak but it's definitely trying. As I'm doing this it smells bad and is smoking a bit. I finally crank and give it some gas and it starts. It sounded REALLY rough like it was on 3 cylinders and was smoking constantly. It was night so I couldn't full tell what color smoke but i'm pretty sure it was just solid white. So I limp it home and it dies at every light. Basically any time I let it get to idle. Anyway I make it home with what I hope is no further damage, it didn't seem like it.

So now the car is in the garage and I haven't touched the motor. I'm very torn on what to do. I really do need the car to be running again soon. It's my daily. But I want to do the right thing and hopefully not spend a fortune. One thought of mine is, if it is sleeved and I really did just toast the rings or perhaps crack a piston, I could just get it re-sleeved with at least new rings then depending on the condition new pistons as well. One problem I run into there is my lack of skill/ knowledge. Its not that I can't learn how to re-build it; I just haven't yet. Another option is calling up Hmotors and getting a fresh GSR and not worrying about this salty motor. I'm sure there are other alternatives too.

So! Anyway advice on what to do in this situation and also what I could have done to my motor would be truly appreciated. Thanks H-T!

 

If it is infact bad rings or a cracked piston then you dont have to resleeve the block unless there is terrible damage. At most just a rebore/hone will take car of that issue. But with that would come all new pistons as well. IDK it's hard to say until you actually know what the issue is.

Either new rings or new pistons/rings/bore/hone. Could be cheaper to just buy a 2nd bottom end to use for now and then keep the current one and throw money at it when you can and build it back up. Good luck though

 

do a compression test again, sounds like it's fubared now. good luck.

 

Check your spark plug wires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is infact bad rings or a cracked piston then you dont have to resleeve the block unless there is terrible damage. At most just a rebore/hone will take car of that issue. But with that would come all new pistons as well. IDK it's hard to say until you actually know what the issue is.

Either new rings or new pistons/rings/bore/hone. Could be cheaper to just buy a 2nd bottom end to use for now and then keep the current one and throw money at it when you can and build it back up. Good luck though </TD></TR></TABLE>Very good advice. I'm almost thinking buying a brand new full swap might be good. That way I can get rid of every little problem with the motor and I can just bolt it in. No taking motors apart. I guess the big downfall on that is $$

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dxsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a compression test again, sounds like it's fubared now. good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>Good idea too. At least that way I'll know exactly what is fubared. Then I'll have a lot more of an idea how bad mine is. I've never personally done a compression test. Is there a good DIY thread on it or something that would teach me?

 

Its the easiest thing in the world.

Go to your local auto parts store and rent a compression tester. Pull your EFI fuse under the hood, and remove the spark plug for the first cylinder you test. Screw in the compression tester (you'll need to use one of the adapters that comes with it). Crank the engine over 4-5 times, or until pressure stops building. Write down the pressure, purge the pressure, remove the tester, and move to the next cylinder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMGWTFBBQ! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its the easiest thing in the world.

Go to your local auto parts store and rent a compression tester. Pull your EFI fuse under the hood, and remove the spark plug for the first cylinder you test. Screw in the compression tester (you'll need to use one of the adapters that comes with it). Crank the engine over 4-5 times, or until pressure stops building. Write down the pressure, purge the pressure, remove the tester, and move to the next cylinder. </TD></TR></TABLE>Oh wow! Thats really easy. Awesome. I didn't realize you were on TR too until I saw your sig. Thats cool.

 

The engine should be at normal operating temp, remove all 4 plugs before you do the test, and you should use wide open throttle. It is also a good idea to hook a battery charger up while doing the test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The engine should be at normal operating temp, remove all 4 plugs before you do the test, and you should use wide open throttle. It is also a good idea to hook a battery charger up while doing the test.</TD></TR></TABLE>Would it matter if it was cold? I don't plan on trying to run the motor in the state that its in.

 

So does it seem like whatever I did has strictly messed up the block? And I could get away with keeping my head?

 

I doub't you cracked a piston and or cylinder. White/blue'ish smoke will indicate your burning oil, my guess is, is that you've indeed toasted the rings. Tear the block down, re hone/bore it and throw some new rings in there. Depending on how much metal you need to take off, you'll need some OS pistons of some diameter to compensate.

At most, assuming you do most of the work yourself, your looking at about 500 for the project. Do some price checking and get a good bottom end rebuild kit/machining you should be looking at about 500.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Like Hondas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would it matter if it was cold? I don't plan on trying to run the motor in the state that its in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Compression tests need to be done when the engine is warm. If done cold the numbers with be very low.

 

you can do it either way, cold or warm
cold gives you an idea of how good the rings are. then do a warm test to see if the #'s get any better. or just add some oil to the cylinder.
yes you can keep the head......so what the happend? any progress?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Compression tests need to be done when the engine is warm. If done cold the numbers with be very low. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This incorrect.

A compression test can be done at any time. Just undue the spark plug wires and throw in the tester and crank it over a few times for each cylinder. It should be between 130 psi (miniumum) and like 180 psi (maximum)...

 

Alright, I suppose I should give everyone the update. I've decided to order a new GSR longblock. I know very well that many parts of my motor and be salvaged, but I simply don't have the time to do a rebuild and source the stuff I do need. It's my daily so I need it on the road again pretty soon.

I've never done a swap by myself but I decided to learn on this one. I know a pretty smart guy to come help if I need it but I'm gonna try to do most everything myself.

I ordered the motor from Steve at Hmotorsonline. Really cool guy! I decided to buy a 99 0bd2 gsr because it had 22600 miles on it! I just couldn't argue with that. So I guess I will be using some 0bd1 parts off my motor to make it work. I've never had to do anything like that so I hope it isn't too much of a pain *crosses fingers*. I'm also thinking of buying the Skunk2 intake manifold with a Hondata gasket. Partly because I hate the look of the GSR one lol and partly because it should give it a little more pep and I can also use my same intake this way.

I've been told that I should replace the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, timing belt, water pump, and plugs and wires before I drop it in. So I guess I'll do that, it seems smart. On that note, I was going to use a type r water pump when I do it. Does anyone know if that means I need a type r timing belt also or should I still run GSR?

Anyway, that's the update. I hope I didn't drag that on too bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Like Hondas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, I suppose I should give everyone the update. I've decided to order a new GSR longblock. I know very well that many parts of my motor and be salvaged, but I simply don't have the time to do a rebuild and source the stuff I do need. It's my daily so I need it on the road again pretty soon.

I've never done a swap by myself but I decided to learn on this one. I know a pretty smart guy to come help if I need it but I'm gonna try to do most everything myself.

I ordered the motor from Steve at Hmotorsonline. Really cool guy! I decided to buy a 99 0bd2 gsr because it had 22600 miles on it! I just couldn't argue with that. So I guess I will be using some 0bd1 parts off my motor to make it work. I've never had to do anything like that so I hope it isn't too much of a pain *crosses fingers*. I'm also thinking of buying the Skunk2 intake manifold with a Hondata gasket. Partly because I hate the look of the GSR one lol and partly because it should give it a little more pep and I can also use my same intake this way.

I've been told that I should replace the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, timing belt, water pump, and plugs and wires before I drop it in. So I guess I'll do that, it seems smart. On that note, I was going to use a type r water pump when I do it. Does anyone know if that means I need a type r timing belt also or should I still run GSR?

Anyway, that's the update. I hope I didn't drag that on too bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

GSR will work...