I have 2 questions.

First of all I have a 2003 Accord Ex-V6 with 112,000mi. I just got the timing belt/water pump changed at a local mechanic, since the dealer tried to charge me $89/hr. So this mechanic told me it would be 300 for labor, since I purchased all the parts from the dealer, then when I went to pick up the car it was miraculously $450 for labor. he said it was cause I asked for the timing belt labor not the timing belt/water pump labor. Is this a reasonable price?

Secondly, after forking over $450 I was pissed and zoomed out of the parking lot. When my car hit 4,000 RPM, it sputtered, Check engine light and TCS came on and then it stalled when I came to a stop. I called and he told me to bring it back. after several hours waiting, he said it is the speed sensor, and I need to go over 65MPH to reset it, but I need to take it easy on the gas for the next 2-3 weeks for the belt to settle. Is this normal? I was assuming that when the belt was in, I was all set, I thought I was going to be back to utilizing the full 240HP V6 I pay a premium for in cost and MPG's. I am thinking this guy is full of

Thanks!

 

Timing belt does NOT need to set, but you need to take it easy for at least the first few miles to make sure the job was done properly. The water pump should not really have cost that much more to put in because it is part of the same system and it would not have taken half the time over again to install. Was the total for the entire process $450 or just the labor? because 450 for a timing belt is fair

You acted a little childish by over taxing the drive train like that in a show of defiance.

 

You should find out what the code was for the CEL light and see if your mechanic is giving you a load of bull. Make sure that it was really for the sensor and he's not just trying to cover up his mistake.

 

Thanks for the answers. I also posted a question on yahoo answers. And the best one that I got was :

"Also, that engine has variable valve timing. This technology uses two different valve event blueprints. One is used for low RPM torque. Once a certain RPM is reach, probably 4,000, it's supposed to switch to the other for high RPM torque. Something could be wrong with that system, causes timing to be off for the second set of valve events."

Does this make sense? I am assuming this is the problem because it drives fine at low rpms but when I try to go over 4K it cuts in an starts to pulsate.

I know it was childish, but I am a 21 yr old college student with no money, and it already cost me almost 400 for parts, and now an extra 450 for labor! I barely have money to pay for gas, nevermind an over $800 routine maintenance. I do realize that I have a nice car with plenty of miles, but still I barely have money and to be screwed of 150 is just not ok with me!

 

I doubt that is your issue... vtec works off of oil pressure and if the pressure is inadequate the system simple does not engage and the motor continues to redline as normal on the lower profile cams. Vtec usually engages higher than that to, around 5k and above on other vtec engines. if you are getting cut out above 4k I would have to say you may be having fuel starvation issues OR you could have an intermittent timing/spark issue

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joshwairi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have 2 questions.

First of all I have a 2003 Accord Ex-V6 with 112,000mi. I just got the timing belt/water pump changed at a local mechanic, since the dealer tried to charge me $89/hr. So this mechanic told me it would be 300 for labor, since I purchased all the parts from the dealer, then when I went to pick up the car it was miraculously $450 for labor. he said it was cause I asked for the timing belt labor not the timing belt/water pump labor. Is this a reasonable price?

Secondly, after forking over $450 I was pissed and zoomed out of the parking lot. When my car hit 4,000 RPM, it sputtered, Check engine light and TCS came on and then it stalled when I came to a stop. I called and he told me to bring it back. after several hours waiting, he said it is the speed sensor, and I need to go over 65MPH to reset it, but I need to take it easy on the gas for the next 2-3 weeks for the belt to settle. Is this normal? I was assuming that when the belt was in, I was all set, I thought I was going to be back to utilizing the full 240HP V6 I pay a premium for in cost and MPG's. I am thinking this guy is full of

Thanks! </TD></TR></TABLE>

He is full of stuff. The real question is what the code was when the TCS and CEL came on?


Modified by MSchu at 9:26 AM 7/29/2008

 

you need to find out why the light set, and correct that promblem.

 

Sounds like you found out the hard way that "cheap is expensive".

 

timing belt does not have to break in.. i agree that you should take it easy just to make sure the job was done right... if the car came to a stall .. that clearly dont mean speed sensor, unless it was the crank sensor/cam sensor.... possible that he could of routed the sensor wiring wrong and it got cut by belt.ive seen if plently of times;.... get the code and look it up.. i run a garage and it is real easy to hide your mistakes..yes 400-450 seems ok for labor on v6 300-350 on 4 cyl.. in my shop

 

How do you route the sensor wrong on a v6 tbelt job? I've never had to mess with any sensors. You have to move two harnesses out of the way but they don't interfere with the P/S belt on an 03.

I've fixed a few crank sensor harnesses on older CRV's from getting chewed by the alternator belts, though.