I talked to harmonator last night, and he was a great help

But I just checked out my paintjob today (painted and clear coated last night) and while it came out great, the clearcoat did not go on smooth at all. I put 3 coats on, but it is pretty rough. Basically, I am asking what you guys would recommend. My dad wetsanded a rough area that is hidden by trim to test with 600 grit and it seems to be WAY too rough, as he got down to PRIMER in no time. I wetsanded a bit with 1000 but it looks like it might take forever to remedy. Should I just stay consistant with the 1000 and just take alot of time to get it right?

Basically looking for any tips here.

 

If u got a pneumatic d.a. it will do wonders. 600 grit wetsanding with a d.a. is like 800 by hand. Less elbow grease too if you know what I mean.

If not get your sanding block and I'd stay at 1000 and work your way up to at least 2K and buff from there.

 

I would start with 1000-1200 if its full of dirt, dry spray, runs and touchable orange peel. then move to 1500 and then cut it. If its one of the worst clear sprays ever I guess you could go knock it down with 800 but thats fairly extreme. I did that once but the job was just disgusting.

Just remember this when clearing; If your first coat is rough, piling a ton of clear on top of all that is just going to make more work later. Your going to have to sand down to the imperfections anyway so... no need to bury them.

Hope that helps!

 

The clear is really rough. My dad and I are thinking about doing another coat, but get the gun working 100% this time so it comes out smooth with less sanding. I sanded with 600 GRIT tonight and it took a while to get it down to a dullness needed for buffing, so it might be time for a better coat or ill be here forever sanding.

Good/Bad idea?

 

jesus what type of clearcoat did you use ? that must be some hardass clear if you couldnt knock it down with 600 in half a second. The lowest grit paper i will let touch clearcoat is 1k. 800 if its on a soft pad d/a. Than you are better off moving up to 1200-1500 and using your buffer, compounds and cutting pads than hitting it with the polish for the rest of the work. Using too low a grit of paper will leave sand scratches that the buffer wont be able to cut through without burning the clear. It may look like it did and then 2 days later the scratches are back. It sounds to me like you should sand the whole car down with 6-800 and reclear the entire thing.

 

I think your best bet would be to re-spray another coat of clear on a less humid day. If you guys are using reducer use the least strength something like a 90. This helps the clear to spread out more smooth instead of drying instantly rough.

Wetsanding is a patiant ardous task. You have to carefull to not sand through. I'd personally wetsand with 1000 then end off with 2000 and buff. I don't know how roguh it looks could you show us some pics?

 

At this point, the only real option is to wetsand down with 600 and clear again.

What should I do to make sure the clear goes on good this time?

 

don't spray in too humid temperatures, don't hold the gun too far, lay down a wet on wet coat starting from the roof down.

 

We had the gun configured wrong.

We set the air pressure a bit higher, wetsanded my hatch and resprayed it and it came out excellent. So we are going to be wetsanding until the cows come home, then getting a professsional to clear coat the car so it comes out right the first time.

 

Respraying it won't fix the rough finish. Sand first and then if you feel the cc is too thin, then spray again. You should have a PTG for this type of work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanPonjican &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Respraying it won't fix the rough finish. Sand first and then if you feel the cc is too thin, then spray again. You should have a PTG for this type of work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

We sanded before we resprayed the clear. Came out great honestly.