Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit
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Former Vendor
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From: Hallandale, FL, USA
Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit
What do you guys think about this kit for Road Racing?
The kit basically comes with a bracket to shift your caliper out a little to fit a bigger rotor, but still uses OEM caliper and brake pads.
The kit basically comes with a bracket to shift your caliper out a little to fit a bigger rotor, but still uses OEM caliper and brake pads.
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Former Vendor
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From: Hallandale, FL, USA
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (TunerN00b)
Not having any problems yet, as car has never been out on the road course yet. I am actually in the process of selling my Drag car to build a road race car, and looking to see which way is best to go about brakes, while still being very reliable at high temp.
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From: Sherman Oaks, CA, United States
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (Power2r)
Well, Autozone blanks and Hawk HP+ pads have been more than adequate for 40 minute lapping session for my GSR, even in 105* heat. Thats with stock power and on street tires though.
I'd say, unless you have issues, use good pads and call it done.
I'd say, unless you have issues, use good pads and call it done.
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From: cali
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (Power2r)
the only benifit that might have is that you now have a larger heat sink, other then that they wont really do much.
Depending on what you running there are several good options using stock stuff.
Depending on what you running there are several good options using stock stuff.
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From: Hallandale, FL, USA
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (unrealwrc)
The car is actually a 2000 Accord Coupe V6. So its 5 lug. I don’t have any problem running the OEM parts with good brake pads, however, it almost seems like most do not like the idea of aftermarket brake components.
Is there any way to get more braking out of these cars (Civics,Intergras,Accords, etc) over just changing the compound of the pads? I am just asking out of curiosity. I am most likely going to use New Brembo blanks, and Hawk pads.
Is there any way to get more braking out of these cars (Civics,Intergras,Accords, etc) over just changing the compound of the pads? I am just asking out of curiosity. I am most likely going to use New Brembo blanks, and Hawk pads.
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (unrealwrc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unrealwrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fast brakes....</TD></TR></TABLE>
What exactly is it you're recommending? The multi pot calliper that fits under 15"?
What exactly is it you're recommending? The multi pot calliper that fits under 15"?
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From: Charlotte, NC
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (Power2r)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Power2r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car is actually a 2000 Accord Coupe V6. So its 5 lug. I don’t have any problem running the OEM parts with good brake pads, however, it almost seems like most do not like the idea of aftermarket brake components.
Is there any way to get more braking out of these cars (Civics,Intergras,Accords, etc) over just changing the compound of the pads? I am just asking out of curiosity. I am most likely going to use New Brembo blanks, and Hawk pads.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO, a rotor is a rotor. I run Autozone rotors and they do their job.
Most (if not all) braking systems are traction limited, not braking limited. This means that a higher temp pad on an OEM setup will do the same thing as a big brake kit, as either will lock the tire up. Bigger brakes are just for heat dissipation, they have no effect on how quickly you stop. If you can get away with just buying a better pad, why spend the extra money?
Is there any way to get more braking out of these cars (Civics,Intergras,Accords, etc) over just changing the compound of the pads? I am just asking out of curiosity. I am most likely going to use New Brembo blanks, and Hawk pads.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO, a rotor is a rotor. I run Autozone rotors and they do their job.
Most (if not all) braking systems are traction limited, not braking limited. This means that a higher temp pad on an OEM setup will do the same thing as a big brake kit, as either will lock the tire up. Bigger brakes are just for heat dissipation, they have no effect on how quickly you stop. If you can get away with just buying a better pad, why spend the extra money?
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From: Luebeck, Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (Voodooboy520)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Most (if not all) braking systems are traction limited, not braking limited. This means that a higher temp pad on an OEM setup will do the same thing as a big brake kit, as either will lock the tire up. Bigger brakes are just for heat dissipation, they have no effect on how quickly you stop. If you can get away with just buying a better pad, why spend the extra money?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok well the larger rotor is not "just for heat dissapation" it is also to increase brake torque. a larger rotor allows for a lower amount of pedal pressure to apply equal force of a smaller rotor. so 50% brake on 11" rotor = 75% brake on 9" rotor. that all accounts to lower reaction time and theirfor decreased stopping distance due to reaction time. but a Pad is the most important thing in any case.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What exactly is it you're recommending? The multi pot calliper that fits under 15"?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like he is just looking for the increased rotor size. I say go with their kit for fitting larger rotors on stock calipers(stock being itr, integra, prelude, misc others) I plan on purchasing them soon.
Most (if not all) braking systems are traction limited, not braking limited. This means that a higher temp pad on an OEM setup will do the same thing as a big brake kit, as either will lock the tire up. Bigger brakes are just for heat dissipation, they have no effect on how quickly you stop. If you can get away with just buying a better pad, why spend the extra money?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok well the larger rotor is not "just for heat dissapation" it is also to increase brake torque. a larger rotor allows for a lower amount of pedal pressure to apply equal force of a smaller rotor. so 50% brake on 11" rotor = 75% brake on 9" rotor. that all accounts to lower reaction time and theirfor decreased stopping distance due to reaction time. but a Pad is the most important thing in any case.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What exactly is it you're recommending? The multi pot calliper that fits under 15"?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like he is just looking for the increased rotor size. I say go with their kit for fitting larger rotors on stock calipers(stock being itr, integra, prelude, misc others) I plan on purchasing them soon.
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From: Luebeck, Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (Power2r)
Fast Brakes is ALOT cheaper. plus stock rotors are just as effective and they offer flat rotors or slotted rotors.
UNLESS you want 2 piece rotors... go with power slot, or just buy 2 piece larger rotors that fastbrakes uses in the kit you want.
UNLESS you want 2 piece rotors... go with power slot, or just buy 2 piece larger rotors that fastbrakes uses in the kit you want.
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From: cali
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (unrealwrc)
what exactly do you mean by "get more braking out of these cars".
Ultimate braking ability is determined by the tire.
Are you looking to improve modulation?
Are you looking to reduce/eliminate fade?
Are you looking to reduce unsprung/rotating mass?
stoptechs website has some really good information about braking, i'd suggest reading over it. Hell i like to read it every month or two.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Power2r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it almost seems like most do not like the idea of aftermarket brake components.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is because most of the time is not need. GAC ST acuras are very heavy and must use their stock brakes, (the tsx on track is around 2900lbs) they do fine on the track in fact are some of the best braking cars in the class
Ultimate braking ability is determined by the tire.
Are you looking to improve modulation?
Are you looking to reduce/eliminate fade?
Are you looking to reduce unsprung/rotating mass?
stoptechs website has some really good information about braking, i'd suggest reading over it. Hell i like to read it every month or two.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Power2r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it almost seems like most do not like the idea of aftermarket brake components.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is because most of the time is not need. GAC ST acuras are very heavy and must use their stock brakes, (the tsx on track is around 2900lbs) they do fine on the track in fact are some of the best braking cars in the class
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Former Vendor
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From: Hallandale, FL, USA
Re: Power Slot Plus Bigger Rotor Kit (slammed_93_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what exactly do you mean by "get more braking out of these cars".
Ultimate braking ability is determined by the tire.
Are you looking to improve modulation?
Are you looking to reduce/eliminate fade?
Are you looking to reduce unsprung/rotating mass?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will read over stop tech website. To be hoenst, we havent even reached a point to even know how the car will brake or handle on the track. the car will not see the track for the first time until Mid next month. I just want to go out there prepared.
But maybe i am just over thinking everything.
Ultimate braking ability is determined by the tire.
Are you looking to improve modulation?
Are you looking to reduce/eliminate fade?
Are you looking to reduce unsprung/rotating mass?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will read over stop tech website. To be hoenst, we havent even reached a point to even know how the car will brake or handle on the track. the car will not see the track for the first time until Mid next month. I just want to go out there prepared.
But maybe i am just over thinking everything.
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Powerslot rotors should not be used on track, the slots make the rotors a lot easier to crack. There is even a warning that comes with the rotors that they should not be used on track....
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From: Luebeck, Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Re: (MightyMouseTech)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Powerslot rotors should not be used on track, the slots make the rotors a lot easier to crack. There is even a warning that comes with the rotors that they should not be used on track....</TD></TR></TABLE>
powerslot = brand name. slotted = pattern on the rotor used for cooling. don't nock the power slot brand name because of a slotted rotor, I.e don't use power slot's slotted rotors on the track.
its better to not use a cross drilled or slotted or both pattern on a rotor. flat is generally the best I agree with you there.
powerslot = brand name. slotted = pattern on the rotor used for cooling. don't nock the power slot brand name because of a slotted rotor, I.e don't use power slot's slotted rotors on the track.
its better to not use a cross drilled or slotted or both pattern on a rotor. flat is generally the best I agree with you there.
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From: Sacramento, Ca, usa
Re: (MightyMouseTech)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Powerslot rotors should not be used on track, the slots make the rotors a lot easier to crack. There is even a warning that comes with the rotors that they should not be used on track....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unrealwrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
powerslot = brand name. slotted = pattern on the rotor used for cooling. don't nock the power slot brand name because of a slotted rotor, I.e don't use power slot's slotted rotors on the track.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I THINK Mighty Mouse means that Powerslots crack due to the slots extending all the way out to the edge of rotor. Whereas, the slots on other brands of rotors only limit their slots to the FACE of the rotor (NOT extending all the way out to the edge).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unrealwrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
powerslot = brand name. slotted = pattern on the rotor used for cooling. don't nock the power slot brand name because of a slotted rotor, I.e don't use power slot's slotted rotors on the track.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I THINK Mighty Mouse means that Powerslots crack due to the slots extending all the way out to the edge of rotor. Whereas, the slots on other brands of rotors only limit their slots to the FACE of the rotor (NOT extending all the way out to the edge).
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Re: (unrealwrc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unrealwrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
powerslot = brand name. slotted = pattern on the rotor used for cooling. don't nock the power slot brand name because of a slotted rotor, I.e don't use power slot's slotted rotors on the track.
its better to not use a cross drilled or slotted or both pattern on a rotor. flat is generally the best I agree with you there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I understand the difference. I bought a set of Powerslot BRAND rotors for my Mazda3 (to solve a wet braking problem on the street) and the rotors came with instructions that they should NEVER be used on a track, street use only.
As for my racecar, it sees OEM Honda rotors only. No drilling, no slotting or anything else to make the rotor weaker or have less mass.
powerslot = brand name. slotted = pattern on the rotor used for cooling. don't nock the power slot brand name because of a slotted rotor, I.e don't use power slot's slotted rotors on the track.
its better to not use a cross drilled or slotted or both pattern on a rotor. flat is generally the best I agree with you there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I understand the difference. I bought a set of Powerslot BRAND rotors for my Mazda3 (to solve a wet braking problem on the street) and the rotors came with instructions that they should NEVER be used on a track, street use only.
As for my racecar, it sees OEM Honda rotors only. No drilling, no slotting or anything else to make the rotor weaker or have less mass.
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From: Luebeck, Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Re: (MightyMouseTech)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, I understand the difference. I bought a set of Powerslot BRAND rotors for my Mazda3 (to solve a wet braking problem on the street) and the rotors came with instructions that they should NEVER be used on a track, street use only.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok It just wasn't very clear 2 me, didnt want 2 talk some 1 away from a oem style rotor from the company unless there was bad experieinces with them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for my racecar, it sees OEM Honda rotors only. No drilling, no slotting or anything else to make the rotor weaker or have less mass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I totally agree with that as well. and I only use oem style rotors on my car. (I go NAPA instead of honda, cheaper
)
Yes, I understand the difference. I bought a set of Powerslot BRAND rotors for my Mazda3 (to solve a wet braking problem on the street) and the rotors came with instructions that they should NEVER be used on a track, street use only.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok It just wasn't very clear 2 me, didnt want 2 talk some 1 away from a oem style rotor from the company unless there was bad experieinces with them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for my racecar, it sees OEM Honda rotors only. No drilling, no slotting or anything else to make the rotor weaker or have less mass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I totally agree with that as well. and I only use oem style rotors on my car. (I go NAPA instead of honda, cheaper
)
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Re: (Power2r)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Power2r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What compound brake pads would you guys recommend for 30 minute sprint races?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have an EG with ITR powertrain and full braking system. I use Hawk Blue up front and Hawk Black in the rear with OEM rotors at all four corners. Works well for me, and I see no need to make any changes.
There will be many different opinions, just pick a brand you like and use whatever compound is appropriate.
I have an EG with ITR powertrain and full braking system. I use Hawk Blue up front and Hawk Black in the rear with OEM rotors at all four corners. Works well for me, and I see no need to make any changes.
There will be many different opinions, just pick a brand you like and use whatever compound is appropriate.
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