For $5,554 you can have a new block, head and MT for the base. Anyone ever done this? Thought about it?

I realize a number of other parts will be needed, but for what is already under the hood, what more would you need? New timing belt, pumps, clutch, gasket, head bolts... what else is needed? At work so I can't go much further... so discuss

Pros or cons anyone?

 

Con: a Euro R swap is cheaper.

 

Yeah, well in the ATL you have emissions to consider. ECU management is going to be an issue for just about any swap I consider.

 

what's wrong with yours? just trying to upgrade? idno what you have but i ordered an jdm h22a and it was a 93 which is obd1. i'm obd2. all i did was swap in all my old obd2 components onto my new[old?] h22a and bam, obd2 jdm h22a. easy. i swear i post this same thing once a week lol. if you have a h22 you can find a longblock h22 for ~1200 + shipping. you can build your new motor with the rest of that change.

 

Euro R FTW.

 

Or why don't you just build/sleeve your block and just do a rebuild? You can do anything with 5k. Hell, you can even buy a new car!

 

yeah the CON is opportunity cost.
with 5k u can rebuild a motor to brand spanking new + plenty change leftover.

 

No because rebuilding yourself is much cheaper. A shortlblock can easily be rebuilt with new oem parts for under $1k, and that includes machining. This is even better than swapping a jdm engine, because it ends up being a brand new engine with 0miiles opposed to 40-60k.

Trans is a little different. Those parts costs add quickly. It is economical to buy a new trans if a rebuild is in order.

 

With the age of our cars, the value is too low to drop that much just for a replacement engine, especially when you can get a used JDM engine for cheap, or rebuild the one you have for way cheaper. Do you know how nice of a build you can have with $5500?

 

Good points all around and trust me I have thought of them all. First I have an sh and want to go base so that leads to ... Second, a rebuild of even an old base setup isnt going to touch the tranny or most of the head before you get to $1-1.5k if you do it right with sleeves and all. THen you add reliability to the mix and you see where I am going. Plus I have more or less ruled out a build due to emissions--- just no right way around it. Andwhy do I need a FF build when I have the Z06.

Add to the fact that I will probably sell my old setup for hopefully near $1.5k.

Now you are looking at $4k for all new everything. **** the Euro R's and Type S swaps with 70-80k miles go for $3.5k. This is a brand freakin new motor, tranny and head!!!

Third, yeah you can buy a car for $5.5k but for that you have no idea what halfasstuner has got a hold of it, or if it was a katrina victim and been wet-vacc-ed out or if the **** has a bent frame from hitting a curb at 80. I have had my car since it had 23 miles on it and know it has been taken care of. I got all new suspension/ball joints/bushings etc... Throw in some new plastic inside and the car will more or less will be like new for around $5.5k (adding miscellaneous to the 4k). Find me a 1998 prelude with 0 miles for 5.5k and I will buy it.

Not bad for a stylish commuter 4cylinder that will run another 8 years easy.


Modified by moe. at 11:23 AM 7/13/2008