I am having some serious rebuld issues. I have built motors b4 and never had this much stress. My B18C just doesnt want to cooperate.

First my Ring gaps measured 0.018 on the first ring and 20 on the second. but every one says that that is ok so install them. so i did

So now i am trying to do the rod bearings and i am gettin 0.001 and 0.0015 but closer to 0.001 and this is pulling the torque bar at 33lbs/ft. The factory specs are 0.0013-0.002 pulling at 33lbs/ft. The bearings are ACL race bearings.
Someone told me that the Race bearing run tighter clearances. but i dont want to do that and cause my rod to grab the crank and destroy my motor.
Should i leave them ar 0.001

I have never had a problem with them b4, but for some reason just cant get them into spec.

I really dont want to have to maching my crank.

motor is a JDM B18C using P30 pistons and stock bore.

 

anone?

i need some help

 

race bearings run looser clearences.....

 

ok so that 0.001 is a problem ....

 

When ACL's don't fit go with oem's to get into spec. If you can't get the clearance with the loosest oem bearing then your rods probably need to be resized.

 

I went to the machine shop today and they didnt want to resize the rods, said it is too risky.

Today i install all con rod bearings and main bearings, torque everything to spec and turn the engine by hand with a 6inch ratchet it turns freely no tightness no scraping(except for the new rings and a honed block). After doing that and removing all bearing caps there is no scoring or rubbing marks, no pits or digs.

Many engine builders told me that if the car had the 0.001 clearance before, i should leave it.
I have no idea If i should go with it since the car was driving fine right up to the rebuild.

 

Get a new machine shop. That is like 3 passes on a Sunnen rod machine to open up .0005. Unless you did not re-machine the rods in the first place, then it could be a hassel as the rod is not round.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a new machine shop. </TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">race bearings run looser clearences.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarily.

 

what about just running OEM bearings like mentioned above?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a new machine shop. That is like 3 passes on a Sunnen rod machine to open up .0005. Unless you did not re-machine the rods in the first place, then it could be a hassel as the rod is not round.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously i feel you on that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about just running OEM bearings like mentioned above? </TD></TR></TABLE>

IF i had a quarter for every time i explained this...lol
The main reason is, I am not from the USA or any of those big places, that have many honda dealers. Here the b!tchy *** single honda dealer refuses to import parts for certain cars ( mainly Acura models and believe it or not Manual Hondas, their excuse is they only bring parts for what they sell....that is Accords and auto SOHC civics)

The import scene here is huge and tons of great cars, and yes many many DOHC converted civics (like mine). And most of us guys import everything and import duty is harsh especially with everythign in the world skyrocketing, it is cheaped to "find solutions" first before expensing ourself more. Oh and dont for get shipping, bearing may cost $39, shipping would be $50 and import duty is almost about $35 that is a total of $124 for something that may not work. LOL

so that is why i try to fix most of anything first. with the help of all u guys who has me basically one of the country's "honda guru," just cant get my **** fixed, sad.