Hows it going guys? I've got a couple quick questions for you.

I just put the slicks on my car (24.5x8.5x15) on a EG hatch. My questions are...now that i'm gonnna take the car in to get aligned, what is gonna be the best camber, toe, etc settings? Also when setting up the coilovers, right now I have the car lifted enough to fit the slicks in there with a little extra room. As it sits, the back end is lower. Should I raise the back end up? Or leave it down? And the other question is...I have Koni adjustables. How should I set them as far as front and rear? I searched but didnt really come up with to much.

TiA

 

i would raise the back to keep the car as level as possible.

give the slicks about a 2-2.5" clearance from the fender to allow for growth of the slick and then the slamming down of the front of the car on the shutdown after the pass

alignment settings are still a lot of personal preference it seems like, we run a good amount of caster, a little toe in to keep the car tracking straight and a touch of negative camber to allow for when the car lifts on the launch

koni yellows adjustability is for rebound, the upward motion of the shock, i would run the fronts adjusted about 1/2-3/4 of the way to full stiff and the rears pretty much all the way to full stiff as an initial starting point, and then you can play with them from there to see how if affects the car and make the changes accordingly.

 

If I did stock caster and toe settings with a little negative camber, would that be alright? I'll do exactly what you said above. Anybody else have any preferences?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolnG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I did stock caster and toe settings with a little negative camber, would that be alright? I'll do exactly what you said above. Anybody else have any preferences?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i don't see any reason why not -- you still drive the car on the street? that would be a good reason to keep things pretty tame to give you an all around good performing setup.

 

Alright cool. I'll do the caster and toe settings stock. What type of negative camber would be good? Somewhere between 0-1 degrees? Also, will it make a difference if I take the car in to have it aligned with the slicks versus my normal street tires? Also, if I do that will the pressure in the tire make a difference? My plan is to just have the car aligned with the slicks on...and then when I drive it on the street, just put my rims back on. I'm hoping the settings will be good for both sets of rims. Both rims are 15" with a similar width, just a different tire obviously.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolnG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright cool. I'll do the caster and toe settings stock. What type of negative camber would be good? Somewhere between 0-1 degrees? Also, will it make a difference if I take the car in to have it aligned with the slicks versus my normal street tires? Also, if I do that will the pressure in the tire make a difference? My plan is to just have the car aligned with the slicks on...and then when I drive it on the street, just put my rims back on. I'm hoping the settings will be good for both sets of rims. Both rims are 15" with a similar width, just a different tire obviously. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, those negative camber #'s are fine.

it will not make a difference if the car is aligned with slicks or regular street tires, most places prefer regular street wheels/tires, easier to work with -- the results will be the same if you have either wheel/tire combination on the car

tire pressure won't make a difference either

we generally get the car aligned with some 235/60/15 BFG Drag Radials on the car that we have mounted on street wheels -- settings remain the same if we run the 26" or 24.5" slick on the car after that

ride height adjustments will always alter the alignment settings so you want to keep the ride height pretty constant, otherwise you shouldn't have to check it very often.

 

Yeah, the ride height will always remain the same for consistancy and simplicity sake. Very cool man...seems like you answered all my questions. Thanks a lot for the help.