Just a few things that delayed my swap, hope it helps some of you

1) *Must use f23 axle. The Lude was too long, and the f22 popped out upon install

-For some reason we had trouble fitting the f23 axle through the hub (rust maybe?). In the end we just put the socket for the axle nut directly on the hub over the opening and beat the **** out of it with a sledge hammer until we were able to start the threads w/ the axle nut and spun it on with a torque wrench until the axle was seated. I highly recommend axle grease, which helped a little

2) MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE O RINGS ON THE SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDER. We used 2 #36 o rings on each nipple at each end, purchased at home depot

-My clutch line came from a dismantler whom apparently lost the rings and made the bleeding experience a nightmare until installed

3) Must space the MC about 3/4 inch from the firewall for it to operate correctly. This also made bleeding a living hell until we researched it at 6thgenaccord.com. We used a few 3/8" washers purchased at home depot for about $2 total, we'll see how it holds...But the clutch is like cake

4) Somewhere in the generation the MC, Slave Cyl, and clutch line changed styles. The older style uses a nipple at each end of the line which is held on by a clip, the newer style has threaded ends on both sides in lieu of nipples. I think the newer style would work better and leak less.

note: The threaded bolt on the newer style MC can be removed and used like the older nipple style if you cant find an newer style clutch line

Also I ordered a slave cyl from tasauto for a 2k accord and recieved the older style, make sure you know what youre getting before it arrives

5) Must unbolt the torque converter before attempting to remove the auto tranny. We accidently overlooked this step (Turbowa Writeup FAQ) and it slowed us down by about half a day.

6) If you put on an H trans like me, I suggest buying a long hose at least 3 ft long small enough to fit in the VSS opening and fill it there. I dont know how the F trans are set up but this made things much easier to fill aside from installing/removing the VSS.

7) Axle Removal: Expect to be delayed removing the axle nuts, the pass side came off fine but the DS was a B I T C H. We ended up cutting it off with a dremel and used the Lude nut for replacement

-To seperate ball joints: After trial and error we found a simple solution. Remove cotter pin and castle nut, support the rotor with a jack or stand of some sort, put on the ball joint seperator w/ the wedge facing up, slide a pipe or cheater bar over the handle of the seperator (we used the 1 1/2 ft bar of our jack) and stomp on the end and it should pop off. Congratulations, now and beat the axle out with a hammer or sledge, it can take the abuse, then swing the hub up, and away from the LCA

- To pop the axles out of the tranny/halfshaft wedge in a sturdy pry bar or chisel of some sort. We use a cast iron chisel and beat it in with a hammer. Snap ring is a little frustrating but a good yank will get it off and a solid push will seat it upon installation. We unbolted the forks and the axles came out easily, its much harder with the forks still on...ask me how I know...

These things are minor in detail, but lack thereof turned this 1/2 - Full day job into a week long epic battle in my backyard. The writeup is very good but i guarantee this will help you along as far as the mechanical aspect. For the electrical, Im still trying to figure out what exactly happened with my interior and code-throwing motor. Good luck, and given that you dont break anything, its not such a daunting task as it may seem