I made a post about what my car was doing, and I am almost positive it is the MAP sensor that is causing this problem, but I am curious if you can have a bad MAP, and not get a CEL. My car is showing alot of symptoms associated with the bad map, but yet I have no CEL? Anyone?

 

yeah its possible . only one way to find out really and most maps on hondas are the same i dont know aht model engine is in your car but if u have a friend w a honda check the code on top and if they match up just do a quick swap and if you have never done one before just be carefull of the lil rubber part when them out.

 

It's a 1992 Civic Si, with a B18B, using the firewall mounted map sensor.

 

if i remember rite almost all maps on 92 to 95 civic are the same except the dx model so if you have and friends w anoher civic or integra do a quick switch and test thats what i would do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooled-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i remember rite almost all maps on 92 to 95 civic are the same except the dx model so if you have and friends w anoher civic or integra do a quick switch and test thats what i would do</TD></TR></TABLE>
Indeed...and that is what I plan on doing as soon as I meet up with a friend of mine. I just tore down some parts off of the motor, just to inspect everything and make sure I am not passing something simple! The little o-ring washer deal that goes in the IACV is not there! It is missing...can something like this cause a massive power loss under acceleration? I don't think it can, but I may be mistaken!

 

QFT, I think I'm having the same issues as you.

 

There is an easy way to check them if you have a volt meter.
A vacuum pump will make it more accurate than just checking it with the car off and then when it is running.

The answer is yes. They can stick and supply a good voltage to the ECU, However the voltage is not fluctuating. The ECU will only throw a code if the signal is non existent or over the normal voltage.

If you want to go this route I can get you the spec's to match the vacuum to a voltage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thesmogman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is an easy way to check them if you have a volt meter.
A vacuum pump will make it more accurate than just checking it with the car off and then when it is running.

The answer is yes. They can stick and supply a good voltage to the ECU, However the voltage is not fluctuating. The ECU will only throw a code if the signal is non existent or over the normal voltage.

If you want to go this route I can get you the spec's to match the vacuum to a voltage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have read all about this and haven't had a chance to do it yet! Sadly enough, I don't have a multimeter...sorry to hate too much. I have never really needed it, usually every mod I have done has been plug and play. I have only needed it before like once, and I borrowed a friends. I can use the one at work, but only if I drive to work...and I don't like getting 15 mpg and riding on what feels like half of a cylinder! Tomorrow a friend and I are meeting up and we are putting his good sensor on my motor...easiest test for now, and hardly any work at all! I will keep it updated and thanks for the help guys!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted_MRCSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">QFT, I think I'm having the same issues as you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dang man, if we get em figured out, we should throw a party together! lol

 

Yes it can happen, happened to my friends civic, no cel while driving but i could still pull the code when i jumped the service connector. It was the cause of his vtec not working too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6hatchboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes it can happen, happened to my friends civic, no cel while driving but i could still pull the code when i jumped the service connector. It was the cause of his vtec not working too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Crazy...I thought you could only pull a code if the check engine light was on? Maybe that is with the newer OBD2 vehicles that we do at work. I will give this a try too man, thanks for the tip!