Wheel lock stuck!
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
Well, i got the wrong wheel locks. The pitch was to small for the thread on my wheel studs and now im basically stuck with wheel locks on my car. I can manage to take some of them off, but i have one wheel lock that is stuck on my stud and when i try to turn the wheel lock out the stud is moving with it as wells. What can i do to remove this stuck wheel lock? And do you think if i used a air gun it would remove the rest of the other wheel locks? Because i tried to use a socket and a breaker bar, and those wheel locks seem to have settled on the rest of my studs for good..
BTW i forgot to mention, the wheel locks that i bought were 12mmx1.25, do you think i can still put a 1.50 pitch in my studs? Or do you think the thread is already messed up??
Modified by PinoyDelS0l at 10:41 PM 6/23/2008
BTW i forgot to mention, the wheel locks that i bought were 12mmx1.25, do you think i can still put a 1.50 pitch in my studs? Or do you think the thread is already messed up??Modified by PinoyDelS0l at 10:41 PM 6/23/2008
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg customs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a socket that you can fit it by hitting it woth a hammer. then use the ratchet to take them off</TD></TR></TABLE> See that i cannot do, because i have the drag DR20 rims on my del sol. And the hole for the wheel locks has no room to shove any sockets in there..
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg customs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then your gona have to get a tuner lug nut key that you can hit it with a hammer to get them off</TD></TR></TABLE>I did that already, thats what caused my wheel stud to start spinning with the wheel locks now.
With the limited space for your lug nut, you will have to butcher your wheel. My suggestion: put the wheel lock at 12 o'clock. Take a breaker bar pointing straight up attatched to your lug nut and pry <U>straight</U> down. This will result in snapping the stud, enabling you to remove the wheel. I would do the same for the other three....looks like you're buying a new set of wheels.
And a .25 thread pitch on a .5 stud, I'm sorry but you deserve this. You had to WORK at getting those on there, where does the common sense kick in????
And a .25 thread pitch on a .5 stud, I'm sorry but you deserve this. You had to WORK at getting those on there, where does the common sense kick in????
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the limited space for your lug nut, you will have to butcher your wheel. My suggestion: put the wheel lock at 12 o'clock. Take a breaker bar pointing straight up attatched to your lug nut and pry <U>straight</U> down. This will result in snapping the stud, enabling you to remove the wheel. I would do the same for the other three....looks like you're buying a new set of wheels.
And a .25 thread pitch on a .5 stud, I'm sorry but you deserve this. You had to WORK at getting those on there, where does the common sense kick in????
</TD></TR></TABLE> Oh i see, will give this a shot tommorow. But i have no idea, i didnt realize that i bought the wrong wheel locks. They went in the stud perfect, but than when i was half way through on tighting the wheel locks, its started to make a squeak noise and than it became tough to keep turning. Thats when i realized the the thread on my car was suppose to be 1.50 not 1.25. I was pretty damn clueless, and now im stuck with them..
And a .25 thread pitch on a .5 stud, I'm sorry but you deserve this. You had to WORK at getting those on there, where does the common sense kick in????
</TD></TR></TABLE> Oh i see, will give this a shot tommorow. But i have no idea, i didnt realize that i bought the wrong wheel locks. They went in the stud perfect, but than when i was half way through on tighting the wheel locks, its started to make a squeak noise and than it became tough to keep turning. Thats when i realized the the thread on my car was suppose to be 1.50 not 1.25. I was pretty damn clueless, and now im stuck with them..
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Halfway through?" No, it's like maybe a full 3 turns until it becomes hard to continue. I deal with this **** everyday at work. </TD></TR></TABLE>I dont know man, ill try you solution tomorrow. If that fails what else would you recommend for me to do? And do you know if its hard to replace all front and rear studs?
It's not hard at all if you have the right tools. If not, then it's pretty much impossible. You hafta "pull" the bearing from the front and rear to replace them, it's not as easy as simply taking the caliper off along with the rotor and driving some studs in. Sometimes that bearing can be a bitch, I've worked up a sweat with the ol' slide hammer a few times trying to get the damn thing apart.
with the rears, you can remove the caliper/hub with the wheel attached to give you access to the head of the stud. grind the head down, hammer the stud through. you will have a tough time with the front because the hubs need to be pressed out.
On mine, I broke a front stud once to where it was spinning with the lugnut on. I used a dremel and a few cutoff wheels to cut the lug off. I did clip the wheel a little bit, but not too bad, and it was a Rota anyway. From there I could remove the wheel.
No, you can't replace front studs without pulling the hub. It's somewhat easy with a press, but impossible without. On mine, the splines were rounded off on the stud that was spinning, so I welded the head on... probably not the best fix, but it's held for 70K.
The rears you can change without too much problem. They're a PITA, but you can do them with hand tools.
No, you can't replace front studs without pulling the hub. It's somewhat easy with a press, but impossible without. On mine, the splines were rounded off on the stud that was spinning, so I welded the head on... probably not the best fix, but it's held for 70K.
The rears you can change without too much problem. They're a PITA, but you can do them with hand tools.
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
Well, today i got the stuck wheel lock out. I drilled right in the middle of the wheel lock and the stud. Got the wheels out, and now i have to replace all 16 studs. Because i cross threaded all 16 with the 1.25 wheel locks. But thanks for your help everyone!!
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bahahaha. fucckiinng sucks! </TD></TR></TABLE>ban?
And no it doesnt F****** suck because i had 16 extended wheel studs thats been waiting to be put on for awhile now.. And now im using it. Duhh!
And no it doesnt F****** suck because i had 16 extended wheel studs thats been waiting to be put on for awhile now.. And now im using it. Duhh!
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From: Home Made Back Yard Tribe Connecticut
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mosaic_hardflip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">impact gun......</TD></TR></TABLE>Tried it, no use. The stud was just spinning with the wheel lock. I already managed to remove it with a drill. But thanks though!
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