eh....

didnt really find anything on the search.

would it be the fuel pump itself? or what else could it be..im pretty sure its the fuel pump though. is there a different fuel pump i should use? im going to eventually put my gsr-t in there, but right now im using the dirty d as i build up the gsr-t, what fuel pump would complement both?

 

Check the main relay under the dash you can do that by turning the key to the on position and you should hear a clicking noise within 1-2 seconds after turning the key to the on position. Start there before assuming its the fuel pump. Good Luck

 

where exactly is the relay itself?

i took off the fuse cover to see if it would be on there, but thats just electrical placement junk.... :-/

 

remove the lower dash panel(under your steering wheel) under there you will be looking for this:

 

there's no way you searched, 'cause there is like 100 threads on this subject alone.....good luck

 

what do you mean by "not priming"
do you mean it runs but does not pump?
or do you mean "not running"?

and yeah, there is tons on here about that.
there are even current threads about it on the first page

 

is this in the fusebox itself?

 

Mine just went bad, haha. Get under the dash into the foot cowl looking up with your body mostly out the drivers side door. Look up, and to the right, you should see it held on with a 10 mm bolt. Get at it with a ratchet wrench. From there, there is ways to check continuity. If you are interested, I will post instructions on how to check.

 

can you please do this???? cause mine is doing the same darn thing as well.

when i go to start it the car i'll turn the key onto the on position then u can hear the fuel pump, pump the fuel, and the "click" in the dashboard. then u go to start it up, it'll start but then bog bod down and stall.
then i try to turn the key back off, turn it back on and i dont hear the fuel pump activating at all. sometimes you hear a short silent "er" like as if the fuel pump wants to activate but its not.
but i have to literally turn the key on and off, on and off and so on in order to hear the fuel pump activate and hear the click under the dash.
i sometimes even have to go under the hood and pull the battery cable off and re-attach it and that sometimes helps.

could that be the same reason? is it my main relay going as well?

 

fill the gas tank up and try to see if it runs. if it does, the pick up tube/sock felloff the pump.

 

It sounds like 2 of your relay actions are working but not the third. I will post the instructions up when I get home from work in about 2 hours. That and pics of my emergency roadside fix for when mine went out.

 

it does this at any level of fuel. regardless

 

mine is doing this too.

 

Alrite, here we go, sorry this is late, but I have been busy.
Step 1. Remove the main relay.
Step 2. Attatch the battey positive terminal to the No. 4 terminal and the battery negative terminal tothe No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
-If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
-If there is no continuity, replace the relay.
Step 3. Attatch the battey positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal tothe No. 2 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the main relay.
-If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
-If there is no continuity, replace the relay.
Step 4. Attatch the battey positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative terminal tothe No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
-If there is continuity, the relay is OK. If the fuel pump still does not work, you need to go on to harness testing.
-If there is no continuity, replace the relay.

Okay, so when you connect the negative and positive terminals, you don't need to exactly use a car batter. Try using a 9 volt battery, that should be strong enough to trip the relays. Also, when you test for continuity, if its not a solid 1 for impedance, then use that as its not getting continuity. If you look on the underside of the relay, there are numbers, these correspond to the terminal numbers.

 

so i assume your also using a voltometer if your trying to check for continuity??

 

Yes, set to impedence.

 

Okay, so I don't know if this helps anyone, but I pulled apart my two relays that I got from the junkyard today, and on the computer board on top of the relay, one of them looked fresh and clean, and the other not so much, it looked as though the flux had spread around on top of the board. The on with the flux spread did not work in my car. Probably heat related, it made the solder connections bad.