i have a 1996 ls motor in my 92 hatch, and ever since i got the swap, when i shift from 2nd to 3rd, it grinds....if i shift very slow it wont grind as much, but if im racing and shift fast, it grinds pretty hard, wat could be the problem??

 

synchros going out. Time to rebuild.

 

could it be the slave cylinder

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetcartuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could it be the slave cylinder </TD></TR></TABLE>

no... It wont..

He was right.. Try throwing in some GM syncromesh to clear up the grind until you get it fixed. Remember, if that works its only a temporary fix to this problem..

I cant stand that shyt. I tryed shifting slower and it worked but it was always in the back of my mind that i need to get it fixed...


goodluck, worse comes to worse.. you could always just rebuild the one gear, but you might be better off doing all of them. Or just getting another tranny period.

 

You guys are all only partially right... Nobody once mentioned shift forks, interlock guide bolt, or maybe even bent shift linkage... I've had all those problems an they all had incurred while driving an going into 3rd gear, but each time it was something different... The mos common answer is gonna be "synchronizers" but let's not neglect the rest of the inner parts of the tranny.... Just ask MistaBone he'll tell ya im not bullshittin..

 

doesnt the forks get screwed up by leaving it in gear at stops? And i always assumed when the forks bend that it would lock you out of gear (yes i know the syncos are what allow you in gear but you know what i mean) .... Didnt think it would factor in with grinding..

hmmm..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1CaMw0nDeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are all only partially right... Nobody once mentioned shift forks, interlock guide bolt, or maybe even bent shift linkage... I've had all those problems an they all had incurred while driving an going into 3rd gear, but each time it was something different... The mos common answer is gonna be "synchronizers" but let's not neglect the rest of the inner parts of the tranny.... Just ask MistaBone he'll tell ya im not bullshittin.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The reason I'm going with synchros is because he said that it doesn't do it if he shifts like a "normal" person.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The reason I'm going with synchros is because he said that it doesn't do it if he shifts like a "normal" person. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed.. but also gotta remember, shift forks can break off at the tips of either end, making it easy to go in gear at 0mph - very low MPH, but when force is applied and velocity is higher, your differential is moving a lot fast and so are your gears when shifting into them making it more likely to grind to not catch as easily... I'd start off by simply bleeding the system "assuming your hydraulic" and than go from there... Any air in the system can cause that much of a delay in transition between clutch pedal pressed and slave cylinder rod doing its thing... Than i'd give the synchromesh trick a shot "because I know that's worked for me before"... And than after that, i'd go internally and while you're in there you might as well replace all the synchros and bearings that seem even the slightest aggitated... And of course, swap out the shift forks if they were broken/bent whatsoever... I just rebuilt my transmission last month and did it from square one, an ended up changing everything BUT the gears lol... New synchros, bearings, guide bolt, shift forks, input shaft, ect... And I gotta be honest when I say i've never felt a tranny shift so smooth in my entire life haha... GL to all those who attempt it though, it can get a bit confusing but thanks to Mista Bone/Transzex it was pretty damn basic...

 

its your syncro's you have to rebuild the tranny. word of advice = get your new syncros from gearspeed.com they specialize in honda tranny's and sell carbon steel syncros. they are a bit stronger and have fewer teeth. i did it with my gsr tranny and all's well.

 

goog luck trying to find a tranny they are eaither blown or stolen i would just buy a new one online with like 25 to 35000 on them much cheaper then a rebuild unless you are gonna put LSD in it

 

bad sincros get new tranny

 

LoL how can you guys just throw that diagnosis out there without this guy even splitting his transmission to show us pictures of anything..?? How do you know his gear isnt torn to ****..?? How do you know his shift forks arent broken at all..?? How do you know anything without any actual evidence besides this dude claiming "my 3rd gear grinds"....???

To the OP - Don't buy anything until you're 100% sure as to what is the correct diagnosis for this otherwise you might be wasting money.... IMO anyways...

 

dude your an idiot thats what it is and thats all it can be

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T Rick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude your an idiot thats what it is and thats all it can be</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have got to be kidding, right? ONLY synchros? Sorry, but I am completely in agreement with the possible scenarios. There are MANY things it could be:

Bent/broken shift fork
Bad synchros
Worn out dogs on the actual gear itself (the engagement teeth that the sleeve locks on to)
Gear selector mechanism
Loose bolt(s) on gear selector mechanism
Bad stabilizer bar bushing (won't let the shifter get all the way up in that gear because you are at the shifter travel limit)
Low fluid level (usually affects 5th first, it seems like)
Worn out bearings causing shaft misalignment

Also, a grind is not usually the synchro itself but the little wire ring that goes around it. When that ring starts to get flat on the inside or outside, you usually start to get a grind. Take a look sometime. If you have a gear grinding and it is truly synchro related, the little wire ring is usually getting flat. Unfortunately, this ring is not available separately; you have to buy the complete synchro ring.

Make sure to check the teeth that the sleeve locks onto. If the tips aren't nice and pointed and they are worn down/rounded off, you really should replace that gear.

Saying synchros is easy. However, that may or may not be what it is. I agree to disassemble, evaluate the problem, then buy appropriate parts to fix the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T Rick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude your an idiot thats what it is and thats all it can be</TD></TR></TABLE>

If i'm an idiot I feel bad for whatever it is that you really are, because im sure its 900x worse than being just an idiot... You obviously have never rebuilt any transmissions, or possibly enough never even seen the inside of a transmission... Why don't you take your sandy vagina to the search forum and do a lil bit of reading up on transmission rebuilds, than maybe you'll find that YOU indeed are the idiot... I love how your almighty e-mechanic skills gave you the essence to predict exactly what's wrong with this guys tranny, but on the realistic side, you're just here to point fingers and call out names just like the rest of the 12 year old gang of know it all's that you consume yourself with... Read a book, you'll find it helps increase scruples inside your brain which will enhance your powers of finger pointing and name calling...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You have got to be kidding, right? ONLY synchros? Sorry, but I am completely in agreement with the possible scenarios. There are MANY things it could be:

Bent/broken shift fork
Bad synchros
Worn out dogs on the actual gear itself (the engagement teeth that the sleeve locks on to)
Gear selector mechanism
Loose bolt(s) on gear selector mechanism
Bad stabilizer bar bushing (won't let the shifter get all the way up in that gear because you are at the shifter travel limit)
Low fluid level (usually affects 5th first, it seems like)
Worn out bearings causing shaft misalignment

Also, a grind is not usually the synchro itself but the little wire ring that goes around it. When that ring starts to get flat on the inside or outside, you usually start to get a grind. Take a look sometime. If you have a gear grinding and it is truly synchro related, the little wire ring is usually getting flat. Unfortunately, this ring is not available separately; you have to buy the complete synchro ring.

Make sure to check the teeth that the sleeve locks onto. If the tips aren't nice and pointed and they are worn down/rounded off, you really should replace that gear.

Saying synchros is easy. However, that may or may not be what it is. I agree to disassemble, evaluate the problem, then buy appropriate parts to fix the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 my friend... At least someone else around reading this post has some knowledge of what's going on here and didnt just come to call names and point fingers..

 

also, every f22a1 ive been in, a lude and an accord, always grinds third.....hmmm