Alternator or Battery?
Well my car is having some trouble starting up. It wont start on its own and clicks multiple times if i try and start it. It will start with a charger on it though, if i have the parking lights on when the charger is attached to the battery and it will run fine. if i take the charger off the lights dim and the cluster goes out of wack and stops working. when i searched it seemed that multiple clicks when i try and start it could mean my battery is shot
wow thats funny the exact saem thing is happening to me rite now.. i charged battery runs fine then shut off and dies so i unhooked te neg and the lights dim and cut off.. so puttin a new alt. on it 2morrow. ill let u know if it fixes it.
disconnect the battery and charge it up over night on a slow charge...connect her up and see how she runs, put loads on it (lights, blower, etc) if it dies quickly its your alternator that needs to be replaced, if it lasts for a while but dies out over time (when you turn off ur car and wont start the next time or someting) you need a new battery
well mines ended up being the battery.. took the alt to advanced adn the fat woman behind the deck gave ame a weird look when she saw the aem pulley lol.. but it came back fine put new battery in it and works great.
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From: Teh Land of Corn and Pollution
These problems can be easily fixed with a 5$ voltmeter from walmart, the battery should be at 12 volts with car off, 14 with car on, if it spikes more than 14 (rev it a bit) the regulator in the alt is shot, so replace the alt, this was the issue with my boy's coupe who had similar symptoms as you describe. But it could still be the battery so charge the battery and see if its holding 12volts.
Voltmeter is a great tool for cheap that will make your head hurt alot less when dealing with electrical issues.
Voltmeter is a great tool for cheap that will make your head hurt alot less when dealing with electrical issues.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Memnoch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These problems can be easily fixed with a 5$ voltmeter from walmart, the battery should be at 12 volts with car off, 14 with car on, if it spikes more than 14 (rev it a bit) the regulator in the alt is shot, so replace the alt, this was the issue with my boy's coupe who had similar symptoms as you describe. But it could still be the battery so charge the battery and see if its holding 12volts.
Voltmeter is a great tool for cheap that will make your head hurt alot less when dealing with electrical issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto, plus you may be able a friend out later cause you have a new tool.
Voltmeter is a great tool for cheap that will make your head hurt alot less when dealing with electrical issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto, plus you may be able a friend out later cause you have a new tool.
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