The car tends to heat up on the interstate if i get on it a few times. the temp starts to climb the faster i go. If i drive slower the temps dont rise as high(55-60) when i get off the freeeway and come to a light the temp drops all the way down to normal, but as soon as i leave the light the temp rises quickly and stays that way throught out slow driving speeds.....The only way i can get the temps to go to normal is turn the car off and let it cool back down to normal temp. Im thinking the radiator is not efficent enough to cool the fluid coming into the radiator before returning it to the motor. Any feedback appreciated.

 

could also be an air bubble in the water coolant system. Those can easily cause strange heating issues.


Modified by TheShodan at 7:45 AM 6/17/2008

 

iv let the car idle for like 30 min with the cap off. what lse should i do to get air out?

 

use the 12mm bleeder screw to get all the access air out. loosen it for a few seconds and tighten it back up. idle the car at 3k for a min or two then loosen it again for a few seconds and tighten it up. repeat this process until there is a steady flow of coolant flowing out of the bleeder screw. that's how you know there is no more air in your cooling system.

just letting the car idle with the cap off will not work. i have tried that for my self just to see and it didn't get all the air out like the bleeder screw will. it is located near the upper radiator hose. you cant miss it. good luck

 

many motor's don't come with that bleeder there.

 

yea i have the bleeder screw. No one has ever told me to do that before. ill try that as soon as i get home. thanks man.

 

No problem Let me know how it goes.

 

well i got home and poped the the hood.....and i see no bleeder screw WTF!!!! it must have backed out or something. so i plugd it with another bolt. So how do i bleed the system now?

 

what mixture are you using coolant/water? I have read that you should run more water than coolant. specially in an ef chassis as everything is compacted in there the heat has nowhere to go really. i had this same issue with my turbo b20 in my hatch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i got home and poped the the hood.....and i see no bleeder screw WTF!!!! it must have backed out or something. so i plugd it with another bolt. So how do i bleed the system now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

um

if the screw backed out, then you have no coolant in the system- i doubt it though.- its prolly factory casting where the bleeder normally goes-

just wait till the car is cold, open radiator cap, and run car for 3 heat cycles (fan turns on then off)

that = bleeding

 

Im sure you can get a new bleeder screw from honda or off another engine at a junkyard.

You could try and bleed all the air out with just the cap off and do heat cycles, but i know from my own personal experience that it doesn't work nearly as well as using the bleeder screw.