I have a turbo civic wagon RT4wd. It is running at almost 250F after 15 mins of driving. I am running staight water and no thermostat just as I did with my old set-up. The new set-up directs the down pipe on the opposite side of the radiator so I was expecting a small drop in my temp which usually lies at roughly 180-190F. I am also running a fan but it doesn't seem to help. Please help if you think You can. Thanks

-Justin

 

Motor in good shape? Did you happen to blow a headgasket or something similar?

An easy way to see if it is motor or turbo related is to rip the turbo stuff off and see if it still overheats.

 

I just did the head gasket. I just had the entire head rebuilt, new OEM head gasket, arp headstuds torqued to i think 80ish with the arp lube.

There is no oil in the coolant. The oil is a tiny bit white from when the HG originally blew; i am still flushing it... It doesn't seem any more white.

Could an air pocket cause my car to run at 245F?

When I fill it, I simple add water while the car runs. I keep adding as the car runs until the radiator levels off. I let it run for a bit and put the cap back on and leave the reservoir tank unscrewed to relieve pressure. I don't use the purge on the top housing... Not sure if that will make a difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jwbetley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just did the head gasket. I just had the entire head rebuilt, new OEM head gasket, arp headstuds torqued to i think 80ish with the arp lube.

There is no oil in the coolant. The oil is a tiny bit white from when the HG originally blew; i am still flushing it... It doesn't seem any more white.

Could an air pocket cause my car to run at 245F?

When I fill it, I simple add water while the car runs. I keep adding as the car runs until the radiator levels off. I let it run for a bit and put the cap back on and leave the reservoir tank unscrewed to relieve pressure. I don't use the purge on the top housing... Not sure if that will make a difference.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fact that you just did all that stuff makes me think that something went awry.

When I bleed coolant, I use a funnel that clips onto the radiator neck like a cap would. I never use that gay bleeder screw. Then I top off the overflow tank to max.


If you blew the previous headgasket then I think you may have overheated then engine and warped the mating surface of the block. Did you have the block decked before you put the new head on?

Oil in the coolant is not the only way to determine a blown HG. Sometimes there won't ever be oil in the coolant.

 

Sounds like your head/deck is warped from the first time around honestly.

 

the block was decked when I rebuilt the block less than 5K ago. I've only Really overheated it once... The head was also milled straight. I really hope this isn't the problem. What is physically happening if this is the case. The reservoir is not overflowing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jwbetley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the block was decked when I rebuilt the block less than 5K ago. I've only Really overheated it once... The head was also milled straight. I really hope this isn't the problem. What is physically happening if this is the case. The reservoir is not overflowing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hate to ask but did you straight edge the head yourself at all? Was the head milled straight before or after you overheated the car?

Unfortunately warping the head only takes one time getting really hot. It could also be a cracked sleeve but being as I don't know how much boost/tuning/etc you have it's tough to say.

Have you tried using some water wetter at all?

 

Try using a thermostat. It could be that the water is circulating fast enough, that it doesn't have a chance to cool off while running through the radiator.

 

The head and block were both done by two separate reputable shops, so I didn't gauge wither the block of head with a straight edge The head was rebuilt after the the overheating.

I checked the sleeves when I took the head off and didn't notice any cracks. I only checked the top of the sleeves where i'd expect cracking with the vitaras. I am running low boost on a basemap while watching my wideband.

I havent tried to use wetter. I don't think wetter will solve the problem being that my temp is so high. Usually running my fan takes the temp down to normal but it's not anymore with this set-up.

May be irrelavent, but the car really hesitates to start after running for awhile. Not sure why but may be related.

Thanks for your help so far.

-Justin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaceCity_USA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try using a thermostat. It could be that the water is circulating fast enough, that it doesn't have a chance to cool off while running through the radiator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had one in and it made no difference. I took it out to try to solve the problem but the temp gauge still climbed to 240ish F.

 

pic of the radiator/fan setup?

could air be flowing around the radiator (1/2 size EG with nothing blocking the other side?)

 

huh... not sure how i did this, but the radiator fan was psuhing, not pulling. Fixed the problem. Thanks alot guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jwbetley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">huh... not sure how i did this, but the radiator fan was psuhing, not pulling. Fixed the problem. Thanks alot guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad it was such a simple issue.

 

you should still run antifreeze. it contains glycol which helps lubricate your water

 

and a water wetter. it will reduce corrosion.

check it out.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

 

Don't run straight water, you can get a cheap coolant for like $6 bucks at an automotive shop.