Dave_yd

well just finished my civic turbo and im really worried its going to have to come apart, I took it for a gentle drive on a basemap from phearable (nowhere near any boost)

anyway, the water temp will be fine low revs but as soon as i get to 50-60mph it skyrockets - i shut the car down straight away after this and havnt drove it since

Im hoping its not headgasket as its a brand new build and OEM gasket. the bottom pipe is freezing cold after the overheating issue which leads me to believe its thermostat, and also there is no signs of coolant in the oil, however there is a bit of mayo under the oil cap but i think this is down to condenstion getting in(open breather port on the cover for now)

also my fan doesnt kick in, and my heater is blowing really cold until the engine overheats where it just stays warm. and the engine just genrally doesnt feel hot. so what do you think it is?

my setup:
Laskey 83mm block
B16b head cams etc.
t3/t4 turbo
Oem 83mm headgasket and ARP headstuds

Head was checked for flatness and it was torqued down by a pro

Dave

sp00led

If your lower radiator hose isn't getting warm then yes I would definantly try to figure out what is going on with the thermostat. You can take it out for troubleshooting but I wouldn't leave it that way by any means as a perminant solution.

As for the fan. You can jumper the fan switch with a paper clip. If it doesn't come on then you know your fan might be bad. Some people I know in the summer months leave there fan on 24/7 using this method.

EmminoDaGreat

You pretty much nailed it on the head. I would take the thermostat out and test it, but if you don't feel like it just replace it.

Dave_yd

well ive ordered a new thermostat anyway, just seeing if anyone had any other ideas thats all. thanks guys

Dave_yd

bump.

i took the thermostat out and bled the water system fully and i would expect it to sit a bit lower in the 0 degree temps we have here, but it was sittin half way up which leads me to believe there might be anohter problem....no doubt be highlighted at mapping on thursday

dpetro1

obviously if the lower hose is cold then the thermostat isnt opening. but i will almost bet that you have air in your cooling system. an air pocket can cause all of those symptoms. i was just bleeding the radiator the other day and the thermostat wasnt opening and the car was getting up around 200-205. finally 2 big air bubbles came out and everything was back to normal.

i think you should bleed the system again, make sure to jack the car up a little to make the radiator the highest point. if that doesnt work then swap the thermostat

EDIT: can you datalog exact temps? is the lower hose getting hot with the new t-stat?

Dave_yd

thanks for the reply,

some great ideas there i will try tonight.

and im on AEM 30-1050 so i will have a play with that tonight and see if i can datalog.

i'll post with results

sp00led

When you took out the thermostat did the lower hose then get warm?

When I am filling my car up. I let it run until it gets up to 180F with the radiator cap off. That way I know the thermostat has opened and there isn't air in the system. You can see the fluid level drop when this happens. I usually start to feel the lower hose getting hot. I'll top off the radiator, close it up, and then wait for the fan to kick on at 199F. Once I know I have a working radiator fan I go for a test pass.

Are you sure that the fan is coming on?

Dave_yd

yes, the lower rad hose did get hot after i took the thermo out. however im not sure the fan is kicking in, it wasnt when i was bleeding it but the OEM honda gauge showed it was upto a good temp so i tuned it off thinking it was fully bled. i will monitor temps on the AEM tonight.

shortyz21

how could it be your thermostat when your heater is blowing cold, your heater core does not run on the thermostat, that guys an idiot dont listen to him.


u have air in your system. also did u run pure water in your system for any length of time previous to this?

dpetro1

i honestly think it just needs to be bled properly. dont leave it with no t-stat, use a known good t-stat and bleed the system. wait for the fans to cycle to be sure all air is out. it takes forever cause the car doesnt get very hot when idling with the hood open. but they should kick on at 199-202. top off the rad and expansion tank and then take it for a ride.

if you think the fans are having and issue, jump the connector to make sure it turns on. also listen for the relay switching on and off

flangemastermike

just gonna say the same as everyone else, just because i had this problem last week , was going mental trying to fiqure out what was wrong. my driveway is on a slope and i had the front of the car pointing down the hill, didnt want to bleed , just got hot as hell (40mins lol), so i turned the car round and pumped the coolant hoses as it ran , and finally the thermostat opened and everything was ok after that.

Dave_yd

once again, thanks for the suggestions. however i think tonight i have confirmed its the headgasket as it drunk a expansion tank amount of water in a 100 mile motorway journey

stockb18c

for some reason it take me like 30-40 mins to get those damns air bubbles out what is the best way to get those out just jack the car up in the front or jack it on its side like passenger side...idk i get pissed casue i always think there is a problem the boom airs come..idk