Is there any power limitation on stock valves
Well since my built motor does not look like it will be fixed anytime soon I am going to put some springs and retainers in my stock motor. I got valve float at 505HP with the stock b16 head.
I really don't feel like pulling the head off to put aftermarket valves in, so I wanted to know how much power you guys are/were making with stock valves if anyone is even running them?
I would be happy with 600 or a tad less. Any problems with the stock valves at that power? That is assuming the bottom end holds together with that much power.
I really don't feel like pulling the head off to put aftermarket valves in, so I wanted to know how much power you guys are/were making with stock valves if anyone is even running them?
I would be happy with 600 or a tad less. Any problems with the stock valves at that power? That is assuming the bottom end holds together with that much power.
i have a group of guys i tune cars for that have some of the most questionable set ups you have ever seen. (great group of guys though!) but either way, almost all of them are making into the 700's-750's on stock valves.
its one of those deals as we are strapping down the car i gotta give "the lecture". "i normally wouldnt try to make half the amount of power that you want to make with some of these parts. if it breaks, its not our fault" lol
and somehow they are all still running!
its one of those deals as we are strapping down the car i gotta give "the lecture". "i normally wouldnt try to make half the amount of power that you want to make with some of these parts. if it breaks, its not our fault" lol
and somehow they are all still running!
Ive seen stock valves pushed to 890, i wont say its safe, but the car is still running 2 years later!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a group of guys i tune cars for that have some of the most questionable set ups you have ever seen. (great group of guys though!) but either way, almost all of them are making into the 700's-750's on stock valves.
its one of those deals as we are strapping down the car i gotta give "the lecture". "i normally wouldnt try to make half the amount of power that you want to make with some of these parts. if it breaks, its not our fault" lol
and somehow they are all still running!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I am pretty convinced the stock stuff is a lot stronger then most people think. Knock on wood but my bs stock motor has lasted longer and made more passes then my built motor and I went faster on this motor. Not that I am that fast.
its one of those deals as we are strapping down the car i gotta give "the lecture". "i normally wouldnt try to make half the amount of power that you want to make with some of these parts. if it breaks, its not our fault" lol
and somehow they are all still running!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I am pretty convinced the stock stuff is a lot stronger then most people think. Knock on wood but my bs stock motor has lasted longer and made more passes then my built motor and I went faster on this motor. Not that I am that fast.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mec. pedri »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">other than the valve hitting the piston how would a valve break???? (stock)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know that is why I posted the question
I don't know that is why I posted the question
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlownHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't think the valves are the problem when you start making big power i believe the springs and retainers are more important.are they stock also chad ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup everything is stock some of the valves are used fthat I had found laying around and put in from when the other stock motor blew and took out a few valves. I was getting valve float after 505 on the dyno.
Yup everything is stock some of the valves are used fthat I had found laying around and put in from when the other stock motor blew and took out a few valves. I was getting valve float after 505 on the dyno.
ive reved stock valves/spring/retainers to about 9800 and made a tad over 600 and never had an issue
would i do it again, probably not, its cheap enough to at least put springs in it
would i do it again, probably not, its cheap enough to at least put springs in it
The only problem with oem valves is where there welded together ...
A ferrea valve is one piece and just has a hard tip pressed and welded on ...
A ferrea valve is one piece and just has a hard tip pressed and welded on ...
I am still on stock valve w/ aftermarket springs/retainers. The only valve failure I had was when the retainer broke dropping the valve and then I had a Skunk 2 fail at the the keeper groove and drop the valve. Other than that using what the person at the Honda factory put in the head when it was put together! Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrParks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chad, you still didnt take up my offer? lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha. I spoke to Tom yesterday. I been really busy with work and on client site so I have not been home to work on the car.
Haha. I spoke to Tom yesterday. I been really busy with work and on client site so I have not been home to work on the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MAX_CFM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only problem with oem valves is where there welded together ...
A ferrea valve is one piece and just has a hard tip pressed and welded on ...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is the major flaw. OEM are 2 piece design and I have seen them break where they are welded together. Remember too that if you are floating valves with weak springs, you run even more risk to bend and break a stock valve. Any valve for that matter. Just like when you bend a paperclip back and fourth. Over reving and floating the valves might have worked that night of racing and the next day at idle the valve breaks. If you drop a valve, you will hurt your bottom end at the same time and end up spending more time and money later fixing.
A ferrea valve is one piece and just has a hard tip pressed and welded on ...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is the major flaw. OEM are 2 piece design and I have seen them break where they are welded together. Remember too that if you are floating valves with weak springs, you run even more risk to bend and break a stock valve. Any valve for that matter. Just like when you bend a paperclip back and fourth. Over reving and floating the valves might have worked that night of racing and the next day at idle the valve breaks. If you drop a valve, you will hurt your bottom end at the same time and end up spending more time and money later fixing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is the major flaw. OEM are 2 piece design and I have seen them break where they are welded together. Remember too that if you are floating valves with weak springs, you run even more risk to bend and break a stock valve. Any valve for that matter. Just like when you bend a paperclip back and fourth. Over reving and floating the valves might have worked that night of racing and the next day at idle the valve breaks. If you drop a valve, you will hurt your bottom end at the same time and end up spending more time and money later fixing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. Never said it was right but that it had been done. I did it with a set up we just threw together until the good motor went in. I believe in putting the strongest parts in the first place to ensur you don't have problems later
Edit:Chad is SOOOO BALLER that he should have Titanium Platinum Carbon Fiber Diamond Valves or something in his motor
That is the major flaw. OEM are 2 piece design and I have seen them break where they are welded together. Remember too that if you are floating valves with weak springs, you run even more risk to bend and break a stock valve. Any valve for that matter. Just like when you bend a paperclip back and fourth. Over reving and floating the valves might have worked that night of racing and the next day at idle the valve breaks. If you drop a valve, you will hurt your bottom end at the same time and end up spending more time and money later fixing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. Never said it was right but that it had been done. I did it with a set up we just threw together until the good motor went in. I believe in putting the strongest parts in the first place to ensur you don't have problems later
Edit:Chad is SOOOO BALLER that he should have Titanium Platinum Carbon Fiber Diamond Valves or something in his motor
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djnikko
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Nov 7, 2005 11:54 AM




