ANy info about the Manley/K1 rods?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gt42. around 7-800whp...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh Manley ftw!
Oh Manley ftw!
I don't think those are the turbotuff rods. Those are the economy rods which are the same as the eagle rods. Eagle rods have been proven to withstand abuse in high HP cars so I wouldn't see why those wouldn't be able to do it as well. On the other hand, I'd save a few bucks and buy the eagle over those.
If you go with Manley rods, get the turbo tuff or don't get them at all.
If you go with Manley rods, get the turbo tuff or don't get them at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paulzy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think those are the turbotuff rods. Those are the economy rods which are the same as the eagle rods. Eagle rods have been proven to withstand abuse in high HP cars so I wouldn't see why those wouldn't be able to do it as well. On the other hand, I'd save a few bucks and buy the eagle over those.
If you go with Manley rods, get the turbo tuff or don't get them at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eagle rods are only rated for 500hp, so this 'save a few bucks' crap will eventually cost you an engine. If you are going for 800hp get something that will hold up such as the Manley (the Pro Series Steel I-Beam Rods) or crower (4340 Steel Billet Connecting Rods) rods, not the econo versions of either brand, they are the same as eagles.
If you go with Manley rods, get the turbo tuff or don't get them at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eagle rods are only rated for 500hp, so this 'save a few bucks' crap will eventually cost you an engine. If you are going for 800hp get something that will hold up such as the Manley (the Pro Series Steel I-Beam Rods) or crower (4340 Steel Billet Connecting Rods) rods, not the econo versions of either brand, they are the same as eagles.
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im trying to see whats good for the money. got a sleeved GSR block off here, and the guy isnt replyin to me as it arrived today with no mains, no girdle, no crank, no water tube, no oil pan, etccc and he said it was all included in 2 boxes. and i only got 1 of 1 box. fedex says there is no other boxes. he wont answer his cell
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paulzy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think those are the turbotuff rods. Those are the economy rods which are the same as the eagle rods. Eagle rods have been proven to withstand abuse in high HP cars so I wouldn't see why those wouldn't be able to do it as well. On the other hand, I'd save a few bucks and buy the eagle over those.
If you go with Manley rods, get the turbo tuff or don't get them at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they look like an Eagle style rod tho and design</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you compare the Manley h beam rod and eagle h beam, you'll choose the Manley. They are not identical. i currently use the Manley h beams in my engine and I'm on my second year with them. I am making 700hp and there is zero issues. They look a whole lot nicer and have better craftsmanship right out of the box. I'm not telling you to not buy the turbo tuff version because they are a nice rod, but I'm informing you that Manley h beams for half the price really do hold the power just fine. Ive seen more successful track time this year than all of the years that i have been building and racing so far combined. (about 4-5 years)
Modified by SPOOLINmatt at 11:45 PM 6/10/2008
If you go with Manley rods, get the turbo tuff or don't get them at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they look like an Eagle style rod tho and design</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you compare the Manley h beam rod and eagle h beam, you'll choose the Manley. They are not identical. i currently use the Manley h beams in my engine and I'm on my second year with them. I am making 700hp and there is zero issues. They look a whole lot nicer and have better craftsmanship right out of the box. I'm not telling you to not buy the turbo tuff version because they are a nice rod, but I'm informing you that Manley h beams for half the price really do hold the power just fine. Ive seen more successful track time this year than all of the years that i have been building and racing so far combined. (about 4-5 years)
Modified by SPOOLINmatt at 11:45 PM 6/10/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here let me do it for you. Manley on the right.
Choose Wisely, Indiana.



</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like i said....FTW!
Choose Wisely, Indiana.



</TD></TR></TABLE>Like i said....FTW!
We have used the H-beam version of the Manleys in several builds for customers, and I am using a set in my personal engine build. For the money they are really strong and work well. There is a huge difference in the quality and machining between the Manley H-beam and Eagle H-beam rods. Its both visual and measurable amounts. For a 42r build, the I-beams are a better choice. Truthfully i have never tried pushing an H-beam into big power range, so not sure how they would hold up.
We've been using the K1 rods for awhile now. The quality and consistency is top notch. K1 Technologies was bought by Carrillo a year or so ago and the finish was done at Carrillo.
yeah the k1's are pretty hot rods for the cost, imo they are the best in the price range
manley and the eagles as posted earlier are very similar, unless you are referring to the turbo tuff rods
manley and the eagles as posted earlier are very similar, unless you are referring to the turbo tuff rods
Talk to your CC company and have them recover half the cash. That would get that dude's attention.
I do dislike seeming like a nut-swinger, but if Jeff Evans says something works, I am inclinded to believe him...
I do dislike seeming like a nut-swinger, but if Jeff Evans says something works, I am inclinded to believe him...
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COrrect. It isnt power that is the 100% factor at breaking rods. The tune of your car is a large contributing factor as well ensuring you dont get any pre ignition, etc.. causing excess strain on the rods
People have also made 400whp on a bone-stock D16, 560whp on a B16, and 600+ on K's. Doesn't mean it is easy to repeat.
Thats the main point though. If you're spending a lot on everything else, the extra for the best rods isn't a large percent overall. In for a penny, in for a pound.
Thats the main point though. If you're spending a lot on everything else, the extra for the best rods isn't a large percent overall. In for a penny, in for a pound.
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