Recently I got my car serviced because it was running funny and I couldn't figure out the problem. They shop told me my timing belt was off one tooth, and that they fixed that and set the timing for the 1.5 liter. My CRX is an SI (1.6 D16A6) I don't know the cam specs and valve duration of my car and the 1.5 liters if anyone knows this it would be helpful. Reason being I wasn't sure if the off timing would cause my motor to be to advanced or retarded. If its a big difference it'll probably cause knocking or valve slap which is bad. Sorry for the speech but if anyone knows anything please help me out. Thanks!

 

well he didnt say which way he had to go with the gear to make it top dead center so you wont know if it was advanced or retarded...how does the car run now?

 

It doesn't. I was driving home (3hr drive) and the car ran great until an hour into the trip. on my gauge cluster my RPM needle would drop to zero and go nuts, I would loose mad power. The car would sputter and feel like it was misfiring and bogging down and then after a minute or two would come back to life. Untill i was 5 miles from home and the car died. I had to get it towed to my house and now it sits. My buddy and I think it could be a malfunctioning ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor. My fuel pump could be going bad or my PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) might be clogged or messed up.

 

Check your thermostat ground.

 

I did and it was fine.. But that wouldnt affect it anyway. not drastically enough to let it misfire. Im pretty sure Ive narrowed it down to either my Ignition control module or my ECT.

 

so did the shop fix the timing problem and the car still doesnt run or they just told you what was wrong with it, I'm kind of lost, the only way that I know that the belt can jump a teeth is if the T-belt is stretching (old).

 

Supposedly they fixed it. Car ran great for a while the died on me. I'm not bringing it back because they said to find out whats wrong now its an additional 75 bucks to see whats wrong.. So I'm gonna have one of my teachers come take a peek at it after school this week..

 

take off the oil cap and see if the cam is turning just to make sure that the belt didnt come off, if it turns do a compression test just to make sure that theres any valves bent, have you check for spark and fuel? maybe the dizzy went out.

 

Sounds like your distributer is the problem, could be that the ignition coil is starting to go bad cause sometimes they intend to fluctuate your Rpms and car just dies and once you let it cool down for 10-15 minutes and car turns on thats usually ignition coil unless you just have a Bad pick-up coil which you would have to replace the distributer.

When car shuts off check the spark plug wire for spark and see if you are getting any spark.

 

make sure you have timing belt on right - D16A6 is not the same as D15 engines - D15 cam gear marks line up with top of head - D16A6, you use the 3rd mark at about 7 o'clock and line it up with the mark on the inner timing cover - Si is about 1 tooth different from D15 engines

 

Well I'm pretty close to the problem. Basically I'm not getting fuel. My ignition switch isn't sending a signal to my fuel pump. I narrowed it down to either a short or open between the dash fuse box and the ignition switch. So now I just got to go through the dash wiring harness until I find something messed up.. Sweet right? If anyone has any wiring diagrams that show the ignition to the fuse box hook me up. I have most of the diagrams from Alldata and some from the service manual but I didn't have enough time to print off others from school and I gotta wait another week before I go back. Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CR3X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did and it was fine.. But that wouldnt affect it anyway. not drastically enough to let it misfire. Im pretty sure Ive narrowed it down to either my Ignition control module or my ECT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bad thermostat ground = NO fuel and NO spark... so yeah it deffinitly would affect the car enough to misfire...

 

check thermo ground, mine gave me similar problems when I changed out the thermo and didnt clean up bolt.

Also check the rotor. My crx's screw became loose and ran like ****, It would sputter, rpms would go up and down and was hard to get it started...

 

I know Im getting spark. Just not fuel. When I get back from vacation Ill be tearing out the dash wiring harness. Yes I know if I werent geting spark or fuel it would misfire. HA it wouldnt even start.. which it doesnt. But its not becuase of that Im almost positive that I have a loose connection and when ever I would hit a bump it would knock it around a little bit until it came loose or shorted out. Im just kind of mad becuase I sank a butt load of money into swapping parts when I feel that all that needs to be done is plug a connector back in.... thanks for the help though guys Ill post the results once Ive fixed the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CR3X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It doesn't. I was driving home (3hr drive) and the car ran great until an hour into the trip. on my gauge cluster my RPM needle would drop to zero and go nuts, I would loose mad power. The car would sputter and feel like it was misfiring and bogging down and then after a minute or two would come back to life. Untill i was 5 miles from home and the car died. I had to get it towed to my house and now it sits. My buddy and I think it could be a malfunctioning ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor. My fuel pump could be going bad or my PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) might be clogged or messed up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds a lot like my problem, only I get fuel and intermittent spark. Good luck figuring this out.

 

double check the thermo ground it causes mad problems