Im gonna buy a new f23a1, build it for boost then drop it in. Problem is, i dont know any websites other than hmotorsonline (they dont have any) and i really need this engine. I would turbo my current engine, but i feel like a newer engine would be better for me to turbo. Can someone help me?

 

get u some forged rods n pistons n some good rings! n build the one u got, oversize bearings can be installed. especially if ur gonna boost it ur lookn at 500 pistons, 700 rods, 300 professional installation of the parts in the block. ur gonna run into map sensor problems over 11psi and also ur gonna need an OBDII to OBDI conversion for the IACV. oh ya what like 1200 for a half *** decent turbo kit. dont forget like 500 for the tune, and like 1000 i believe for the hondata. i have a buddy with 299whp 290 wtq f23 at 16psi. i had to do the IACV conversion to mine so i could use the 99 head and intake manifold on a 93 f22 block. unless its got a spun bearing or a rod through the block it should be fine.
GL 2 YA

 

Nah. Engines good. Im just extra paranoid since i only have one car. Didnt wanna turbo it with 174457 miles. Also, I live in south Arkansas, so there is no shop close that i can think of to get a dyno and tuning session.

 

If you buy it from a depot like that there's no guarentee it'll be a "new" engine, I have no idea what you're trying to do with that. Buying a 10 year old motor is buying a 10 year old motor.

Just do compression checks on YOUR motor and do all the maintenence.

 

not new, newer. Guess i should say an engine with less miles.

 

Still no guarantee. Those online depos "estimate" 40-50k avg that's no guarantee you could get screwed or you could get a good one.

 

Bummer. Guess i'll just rebuild. But like i said, i only have one car. Any suggestions on how to stagger the rebuild so that my car isnt off the road too long?

 

Buy all the parts before you take the engine out to build it?

Don't buy an engine from tigerjapanese. I have a feeling that the one I have in my car now has more miles than my chasis, which is 208,888.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newtothescene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any suggestions on how to stagger the rebuild so that my car isnt off the road too long?</TD></TR></TABLE>

buy a beater. Ill probably be doing that myself soon. I actually found a 91 ford thunderbird for $250. Runs like a champ too.

 

Thanks everyone. I got another prob. As of late, whenever i accelerate between 2k-3.5k rpms i hear this rattling noise that sounds like its coming from the drivers side front wheel or from that side of the engine. Can someone please help me?

 

Anyone? Please?

 

have you visually inspected for anything wrong??

cv boots
wheel bearings
tie rods
rotors, calipers, pads
radius rods
upper and lower ball joints

 

everythings ok. it even rattles when i start it. must be a loose fender. i dont know.

 

I'd buy a cheap yet, running car. Nothing that looks awesome just something that runs and is somewhat reliable.

Then jerk your motor, tear it down to the bare block, take the block to the machine shop and have them take a look at it, high-mileage means nothing if the cylinders aren't wore.

Have them mic it out, they will probably find slight wear, and tell you that a light bore and hone will freshen it up, tell them ok.

When they are done, pick up your block, at this point, if you haven't already, get yourself a good torque wrench. Get your new pistons and crank if it's needed. Slap the bearings in there, slap everything together and torque it all down. Then throw on your new head and cam(s) and torque all of that down. Install your header and turbo, intercooler, intake piping, and intake.

You might also want to strengthen up your tranny and half-shafts.

BTW, I read that post up there that listed approximate prices for various engine parts and services and OH MY GOD! I don't know how you guys do it, that **** is expensive! Here I thought my 300+ HP engine was expensive at $3,000.00!