OK I have been searching for awhile here, I know there is a link on the site somewhere, but i reformated my computer and lost that page, I have searched for 20 mins and have looked in faq, does anyone have a good link saved?

I will be working on my swap soon, and putting the list in my head together..

Parts to start off are
Water Pump
Timing belt
Manual Tensioner
Axles - if going from h23 like I am.
shift linkage -
shifter - have
manual pedals - have
clutch master and slave cylinder - have
Hydrolic piping - have but its bent up
new motor mounts - prothane kit
etc..

 

You dont need new axles.... and I would reccomend getting some Innovative motor mounts instead of the inserts. You will need a h22 downpipe also.

 

Well trying to keep costs down, for the price of the innovative mounts i can get most of all my oem parts needed.

 

Parts needed from your h23a for the jdm h22a-

-fuel rail
-clutch/flywheel/pressure plate. if your h22a was auto
-*complete and uncut* engine harness
-distributor + external coil...unless you do the fuse mod(super easy) and run your h22a internal coil dizzy(which I've done on mine)
-engine mounts
-tranny + starter

On the h22a...you'll be re-using intake manifold, throttle body, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, a jdm p13 ecu(or chipped p06/p28/p72 if you're wanting to tune), sensors, brackets, etc. Some jdm h22as came without a VTEC oil switch...like mine, the hole was plugged. I don't know why this is...because without that switch the ECU throws a code and enters limp mode.

Almost anything that is broken or missing on the h22a can be replaced by parts from the h23a. Just double check by asking here.

You'll also need to pin 2 new wires into the ecu plugs, VTEC solenoid and VTEC oil switch. There's write-ups and pics for this scattered around the forum...just gotta search.

Keep in mind that the spark plug wires from the h23 will NOT work on the h22a. If your h22a has damaged wires or no wires...buy new ones for a 92-96 prelude VTEC.

After that...everything is pretty much plug and play.

My best advice for you, after doing my own h23-to-jdm h22a swap, is...don't sell or toss out ANYTHING, especially the h23, until the swap is done.

If you need anything, don't hesitate to ask. Feel free to PM me with any questions or issues you might have. I just recently completed my swap and it turned out great.

My build = 93 Prelude Si w/ jdm h22a, jdm p13 ecu(switching to chipped p28 soon), jdm h22a dizzy, h23a engine harness, h23a tranny, megan racing header + downpipe, 2.5" cat-back + twinloop muffler. No problems, no check engine lights, runs like a top. Did 90% of the work myself, had a buddy give me a hand in the beginning.

 

How hard was it to fix the VTEC oil switch- how was the hole plugged?


Well I will be looking to get a JDM auto h22a, seems to be the best virgin jdm h22 you can get, and mostly cause thats whats left. After years of h22a manual swaps.

I have a m2y4.

I heard that the fuel rail on the jdm is opposite from usdm but it still works anyways - my friend has used it twice. As far as the dizzy i hoped that i could pull it off the h23. And for ECU i have a p72 and s200, plus a extra chip previously tuned so i can drive it to kings motorsports where it will be tuned. Probably will get a fpr for tuning...

Actually i have new magnecor wires on the h23, was hoping it would work on the h22, why will it not work?

Will the starter of the h23 work? Probably not since its from an auto....

Header will be a used greddy or dc with collector mod, untill i can afford a hytech!

Will be using h23 ps, ac, cc, and what not...

-Prob throw in a new fuel filter.
-oil cooler o-ring
-oil pressure switch
-new rear main seals. - and any other common oil leak areas.

 

The hole was plugged with some sort of bolt. I actually didn't know an oil switch went there until I reported my CEL problem and someone was like "whoa dude, you're missing your oil switch in that pic", haha. Just removed the bolt, installed an oil switch/sensor I bought on here...problem solved.

Not sure what m2y4 means.

The jdm h22a fuel rail feeds from the left side of the car...your fuel line comes from the right side. Unless you order a new fuel line, you'll need the h23a fuel rail because your oem fuel line won't reach that far.

I don't remember...but the ends of the spark plugs wires from the h23a are either too long or too short in the spark plug tubes on the h22a.

I'm not sure of the differences between an auto starter and a manual starter, you'd have to ask someone else on that. I've never owned nor worked on an auto car. I've got a spare h23a manual starter here if you need one.

As for pulleys/pumps...the h22a ac belt is 2 ribs wider than the h23a ac belt...meaning the ac pulleys are different as well. I don't remember if it was alternator or ps that ran on the same belt. You can't interchange those unless you swap the crank pulley as well...or run the h23a ac and belt and hope the lack of 2 ribs won't cause pre-mature belt wear/damage.

I didn't do the tensioner swap. I will eventually.

Anything maintenance wise is a good idea, no one likes to be surprised with a snapped timing belt or blown head gasket a month after their swap. If you pull apart the motor...some ARP studs would be a good idea.

 

m2y4 is the tranny code - 97 base trans.

Thanks for the help too..

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2243380

 

thanks acid, this helps a lot.