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Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23

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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 07:58 AM
  #1  
Acidcrakker's Avatar
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Default Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23

Okay so Ive noticed there are alot of questions on this board about what to swap during a swap.

Ill list the parts for a H23 to H22a Swap. Its a JDM engine so there are quiet a few more things to do than just a basic USDM swap.

Swap List
1. Timing Belt
2. Manual Tensinor SwapFAQs How To
3. Balancer Belt
4. Oil Pump
5. Water Pump
6. All the Oil seals on the Crank Pulley, and Balancer Shaft
7. Oil Cooler O-Ring
8. Front Thermostate Housing/Sensor(Not On JDM)
9. Clutch
10. Flywheel
11. USDM Fuel Rail
12. External Coil/Dizzy
13. Valve Cover Gasket
14. Valve Adjustment FAQs
15. Altenator Belt
16. P.S. Belt
17. PCV Valve
18. O-Rings On Fuel Injectors
19. Air Filter
20. Transmission CV Oil Seals
21. Vtec Oil Pressure Switch Wire
22. Vtec Solenoid Wire FAQs
23. p13 ECU
24. Fuel Filter
25. Cotter Pins

Thats a Good ammount of stuff to Replace. Anything else I missed, please add. Ill be using this thread to post for this question. This list is pretty complete, and is a pain to retype out everyday.

How To Use That JDM Motor Equipment

1. JDM Dizzy, it can be used with minor modificationLink to JDM Dizzy

2. You can modify the USDM Fuel line to match the JDM fuel Rail, but it is possible, so dont rule it out.

When Doing a Swap You Must
1. Wire in Vtec Wires
2. Use a USDM Wire Harness and USDM Fuel Rail
3. Replace all cottor pins you remove
4. Drain all Fluids
5. Reset Timing and pos do a Manual Tensinor swap
6. Check All gaskets and replace rotted ones

There is always something else more to do when swapping but this is just basic simple stuff


Modified by Acidcrakker at 2:19 PM 8/26/2008
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 10:47 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23 (Acidcrakker)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
17. PVC Filter
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Positive Crankcase Ventilation

PCV valve.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 12:28 PM
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Default Re: Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23 (Hawkze_2.3)

dont forget to change your fuel filter, cotter pins if you took any out, i also went ahead and replaced the oil cooler seal i had it laying around so i made good use of it.

well not really necessary but makes things look a whole lot better i cleaned out the engine bay while everything was out.

gl swapping
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Default Re: Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23 (Acidcrakker)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Swap List
1. Timing Belt
2. Manual Tensinor SwapFAQs How To
3. Balancer Belt
4. Oil Pump
5. Water Pump
6. All the Oil seals on the Crank Pulley, and Balancer Shaft
7. Oil Cooler O-Ring
8. Front Thermostate Housing/Sensor(Not On JDM)
9. Clutch
10. Flywheel
11. USDM Fuel Rail
12. External Coil/Dizzy
13. Valve Cover Gasket
14. Valve Adjustment FAQs
15. Altenator Belt
16. P.S. Belt
17. PCV Valve
18. O-Rings On Fuel Injectors
19. Air Filter
20. Transmission CV Oil Seals
21. Vtec Oil Pressure Switch Wire
22. Vtec Solenoid Wire FAQs
23. p13 ECU
24. Fuel Filter
25. Cotter Pins</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great list
I don't believe the Internal coil to External coil Dist. and the USDM Fuel Rail are necessary. Keep JDM fuel rail and just get a custom length fuel line. As for the 'dizzy' I believe a simple re-wire will accommodate the internal coil.


Is this something required for SMOG? or can I just leave it out? whats the point of having it?
8. Front Thermostat Housing/Sensor(Not On JDM)
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 04:40 AM
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From: Twin Cities, MN, USA
Default Re: Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23 (ketchup)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ketchup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this something required for SMOG? or can I just leave it out? whats the point of having it?
8. Front Thermostat Housing/Sensor(Not On JDM)</TD></TR></TABLE>

USDM's have a second fan switch that is located in the front water outlet neck, JDM's don't have it. It does not need so be switched. They are the exact same neck, but the USDM's have threads and a fan switch tapped into them.. So you can use the same neck, just leave the sensor unplugged.

This list is a little extreme... all are definitely things to consider when doing a swap, but not all are necessary.

Necessary: 1,5,14,21,23
Highly Recommended: 2,3,6,7,9,11,13,17,19,20,24
If you have spare time: 4,8,12,15,16,18,
Not Needed: 10

Note:
9. If the clutch on the new engine has plenty of disc left, it is not necessary to change it
15: if you use your USDM crank pulley, alt pulley, and a/c compressor, you can use the H23 belt. With JDM pulleys, order the belt one rib wider than what the USDM size.
16: If they are good, no need to replace, they are same part# between engines
21, 22: Acid, link this site into the list, it is very helpful http://www.automotiveforums.co...11027

11. You CAN use JDM fuel rail, but it is MUCH easier to just use the USDM H23, because it bolts up perfect without modifying the fuel line.

Modified by vlang29 at 8:00 AM 4/12/2008


Modified by vlang29 at 9:38 AM 4/14/2008
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 06:51 AM
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Acidcrakker's Avatar
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Default Re: Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23 (vlang29)

Added a How to Used that JDM motor stuff.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 06:33 AM
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From: Twin Cities, MN, USA
Default Re: Engine Swap Replacement Parts H22-H23 (Acidcrakker)

Also worth mentioning, the JDM A-C/Alt belt is one rib wider. So, to use the JDM crank, A/C, and Alt pulleys, you will need to order one rib wider belt than stock. Or easier, just use the USDM crank pulley, a/c compressor and alternator.(or just change pulley on alt)
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