Well i just got done swaping a b18a1 into my eg(94 hatch) but when i tried to fire it up Sparks came out the Negative wire that attaches to the chassie, what should i do? what should i check.

Please and thanks

 

no one?

 

is the ground tight? it shouldnt if its tight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReactioN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i just got done swaping a b18a1 into my eg(94 hatch) but when i tried to fire it up Sparks came out the Negative wire that attaches to the chassie, what should i do? what should i check.

Please and thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

For starters, your motor has a OBD2 B18B1 valve cover on it, and you made no mention of custom wiring, so chances are you have a B18B1.

Did you cut or alter ANY wiring, which motor wiring harness did you use, etc.

Check the link in my sig for a full write-up.

 

Fortunately, it really doesn't matter if you have a B18A1 or a B18B1. Luckily, neither one is built or designed to have sparks flying out of it. So, how about a little useful info:

1. Where you saw the sparks, remove that ground. Clean the terminals on the ground wire then use something sharp and clean the area where the ground wire contacts the metal. Reinstall the ground.

2. Go over all the grounds and do the same thing. Battery ground, trans ground that goes to the passenger "frame rail" and the ground that goes on the valve cover (or the block if you moved it)

After you do this, get back to us and let us know if that solved the problem. If not, we'll continue to help you get through this.

Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fortunately, it really doesn't matter if you have a B18A1 or a B18B1. Luckily, neither one is built or designed to have sparks flying out of it. So, how about a little useful info:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

if he has a B18A1, and had to cut the OBD0 harness up it could cause issues like this, thats why I made mention of that, but it 'appears' to be an OBD2 motor.

 

what in the hell would give you the idea that it has a obd2 motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by superfast666 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what in the hell would give you the idea that it has a obd2 motor </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is a link to his build-up thread:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2291294

Here is a picture of his motor:



it has a 96-01 valve cover, and an OBD0 intake manifold, B18A1 exhaust manifold, OBD0 Dizzy.

The EG is a OBD1 car, so I'm suggesting that if he has a OBD0 motor (OBD2 valve cover or not), he had to cut up the harness somewhere which can cause electrical issues.

Here is a picture of my B18B1 from a 1996 Integra:



See why I asked now?


Modified by Dasfinc at 9:17 AM 6/3/2008

 

Yes, your advice is good so don't take me wrong. I just was taught years ago to start with the simple stuff. The grounds on these cars tend to suck right from the get go (what does the ground on the valve cover do, besides catch spark it you pull a plug wire off, anyway? The valvecover is isolated from the rest of the enigne with RUBBER. LOL)

Definitely double check your wiring harness before you go to crank it again. I just suspect that the bad ground caused the spark due to the starter being a fairly high current draw piece.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, your advice is good so don't take me wrong. I just was taught years ago to start with the simple stuff. The grounds on these cars tend to suck right from the get go (what does the ground on the valve cover do, besides catch spark it you pull a plug wire off, anyway? The valvecover is isolated from the rest of the enigne with RUBBER. LOL)

Definitely double check your wiring harness before you go to crank it again. I just suspect that the bad ground caused the spark due to the starter being a fairly high current draw piece.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I had the T-state ground get horridly corroded causing a no start like a year ago, a quick blast of Brake Clean took care of it

 

How could you tell if the B18a1 is OBD0 or OBD2?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smonblt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How could you tell if the B18a1 is OBD0 or OBD2?</TD></TR></TABLE>

B18A1 is 'always' OBD0, but the B18a1 and b1 blocks are pretty much identical, their hp differences are all in the heads.

specifically his intake manifold has writing on top of it, and his Dizzy has a brown round plug, so I know thats all OBD0.

Putting an OBD0 motor, into a OBD1 car is a wiring cluster [freak], thats why I question how its all wired.

 

**** i Forgot to check and update, well it was the ground that gse to the t stat i had put it on the starter lol

but its all good

i got it started

Btw its a obd1 besides the manifold

i have obd1 b20 headers
obd1 dizzy everything lol


but i got a diff prob hofully you guys can help
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2314146

 

Actually, remember the 1993 B18A1 was OBD1. used a PR4 OBD1 ECU. They went to P75 in 1994.

Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, remember the 1993 B18A1 was OBD1. used a PR4 OBD1 ECU. They went to P75 in 1994.

Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Touche, forgot about the '140hp B18A1', I'm running a friggen 93 PR4 ECU in my hatch Durrr.

 

hey man check all your wire