Just my right front tire rubs under hard cornering. I thought it was because of the bent radius rod, but it still rubs after replacing it, though it did help. I got it aligned, and it is all within spec. I don't THINK the alignment could still be in spec if other suspension parts were bent, but I could be wrong. Tires are 205/50/15 azenis on 15 inch +42 FN01RC's.

Ideas?

 

put your spare tire on. It wont rub anymore.

Try turning your wheel then rub your hand along to feel if its hitting something. Or take the wheel off and see if there are any rub marks. GL

 

I had something like this happen because my front tie rods were tracked straight, but one was adjusted short and the other long by a few threads.

The steering wheel had been adjusted to compensate, so it was not noticeable, except when you turned one way to full lock it could rub, the other way would not. After evening out the lengths (another damn alignment) and straightening the steering wheel, everything was ok again.

 

The thing is, it wont always rub at full lock. It only rubs under hard turning, and the wheel usually isnt anywhere near full lock when i can hear it rub.

 

How much of a drop do you have?

 

I'm not sure. I can fit one finger in between the top of the tire and fender. It's higher than my other crx.. This one doesnt rub over speedbumps or driveways, so its not THAT low.

 

What suspension do you have?

 

Ground control coilover setup with the stock rate eibach springs, 450 front, 650 rear I think. I think its OEM replacement struts, hard to tell, all this was on it when I bought the car a few weeks ago. I thought it might have been a bad strut, but when i lift and lower the wheel it feels exactly like the driver side, which doesnt rub, so I dont THINK it's blown.

 

I have no clue unless I see it. Someone help this guy out.

 

The tie rods being uneven might be a possibility. I'm 99% sure that whoever wrecked this car got an alignment done afterwards, with the bent radius rod, so it was drivable. The reason I think this is because after I replaced it, the right front tire was toed WAY out. I toed it back in and then took it for an alignment, but on the way there my steering wheel was rotated about 45 degrees to the right. You think that would be enough to have what Fireant described above?

 

it could be b/c your spindle is bent... just a suggestion

 

It could also be a twisted or bent spindle arm. Its good to have spare one anyway, since the bearings come with them, so you could pick a set up at a junk yard and compare them.

And also, caster comes to mind. Have you got a good measurement of the front-to-rear gaps for both sides? Does the car turn or pull when you brake? Those nylock nuts on the end of the radius rods like to walk off unless they are brand new.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by inh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm 99% sure that whoever wrecked this car got an alignment done afterwards, with the bent radius rod, so it was drivable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well that opens up a hole new line of what it could be. If it was wrecked before than you have to take a lot into account for. Maybe you're chassis is bent a little.

 

Caster is within spec, and not much different from the driver side. It is 2.4 degrees, drivers side was 1.9 (this is all after the alignment. Spec is 2-4 degrees. I will take some measurements though, I just cant make sense of it in my head that if the alignment is all within spec, that something could be bent enough to make it rub..

What do you guys mean by spindle? Pick a number:


I really appreciate the help guys, thank you =]

 

where it shows the number 6 or 8 that whole casting piece that your wheel bearings go into

 

Also known as the knuckle, right? If it's bent, it will be replaced soonish. I'm goign to pull all the front suspension out from my 88si, paint it, new bushings, and then install it under this car.

When the steeringwheel locks with the wheels straight, the wheel should be centered, right? I went to straighten my wheels because they were a little off, and when the wheel locked, it was about 45 degrees off, rotated clockwise. Would that cause the passenger tie rod to be lengthened enough to cause it to rub?

 

beats me on that question... sorry... i just know of the spindle...

 

On mine there was four more threads showing on one tie rod than the other that was enough to cause it. (added up to about 3/8" difference in length between the two)

 

I just checked, same number of threads on each side =/

 

that sounds like a caster issue to me still.. i just noticed you said you replaced the radius rod, but the radius rods aren't really adjustable despite looking like they are. The following is assuming your front crossmember is not an aftermarket adjustable one. my guess is your front crossmember is damaged at the point where the radius rods interface with the crossmember. How do i know? i have the same exact problem on my car. the right front rubs in front of the tire, even though i am running 190/60 14's. it manifests itself on the alignment sheet as caster that is pretty far out. My toe is spot on, and i have atleast 2 turns lock to lock in both directions, so my steering rack isn't horribly imbalanced to one side.

When you say the tire rubs, does it rub in front of the tire, in back, or above? if you are rubbing above, one of your struts might be blown, but if you are rubbing in front or back, i would say your caster is out, as a result of the issues you previously had with the radius rod/crossmember.


Modified by sanimalp at 5:29 PM 6/2/2008

 

This just in, I'm an idiot. Or at least not as slick as I thought. Upon an afternoon of canyon runs, careful listening, and a post drive inspection, the rubs are coming from the rear only. Looks like my fender has been tweaked and bondo'd and is slightly.. incorrect in the way it was shaped.

I'll keep an eye on the front, but I'm pretty sure its just the back that is rubbing.

As for the caster comment above, caster is withing spec on the alignment sheet, and the pass. side is pretty close to the drivers side.

 

when a bearing the hub on either side in the rear goes out, it sounds a lot like tires rubbing in the rear. they are easy to check too.. just jack up the rear and spin the wheels, listening for grinding or whining.