92 civic torque converter not locking into overdrive?
Sometimes I think this is happening to me...what are some possible problems? I have changed the fluid, car is stock with 90k miles.
Is there a check engine light? Check for codes if there is. Make sure your TPS and MAP sensors are giving correct readings. Also check your brake switch, make sure its not sticking. If everything checks out okay, then you may be looking at TCS problems.
The only check engine light I have is cel #17 which is the VSS sensor, I plan on changing that this week. I will check into the other things you mentioned as well. Thank you.
It's a switch on your brake pedal which activates the taillights, and also tells the ECU to disengage the Torque converter solenoid (TCS). TCS problem= faulty solenoid, leaving the torque converter clutch disengaged.
Trending Topics
So Heres the update:
I bought a used VSS sensor on the forum here....and I unbolted all 3 bolts needed to get the "WHOLE" sensor out, however the bottom part of the VSS wouldnt freakin come out...It was really stuck. I was able to move it, but just couldnt get it out all of the way. So what I did was rebolted the bottom part of the VSS, and used the new top part of the VSS(The part with the electrical connector) and tightened everything back up.
I then removed my neg on the battery, and re did that so it would reset the ECU. I then bypassed the 2 pin connector for my CEL, and when I did... the CEL just remained on, did not show any flashes. I then proceeded to pick my friend up at the airport and did about 100-150 miles of highway driving. The speedometer worked perfectly never showed any signs of messing up, the odometer worked flawless, and the torque converter was locking into overdrive(Because I could tell the engine was not stuck in 4th gear revving really loud like last time.)
All from changing just the top part of the VSS. Weird Huh?
I bought a used VSS sensor on the forum here....and I unbolted all 3 bolts needed to get the "WHOLE" sensor out, however the bottom part of the VSS wouldnt freakin come out...It was really stuck. I was able to move it, but just couldnt get it out all of the way. So what I did was rebolted the bottom part of the VSS, and used the new top part of the VSS(The part with the electrical connector) and tightened everything back up.
I then removed my neg on the battery, and re did that so it would reset the ECU. I then bypassed the 2 pin connector for my CEL, and when I did... the CEL just remained on, did not show any flashes. I then proceeded to pick my friend up at the airport and did about 100-150 miles of highway driving. The speedometer worked perfectly never showed any signs of messing up, the odometer worked flawless, and the torque converter was locking into overdrive(Because I could tell the engine was not stuck in 4th gear revving really loud like last time.)
All from changing just the top part of the VSS. Weird Huh?
Yeah, I should have thought of that.
If the VSS is showing low or no voltage, the TCS will not engage because the computer doesn't send the command to engage the solenoid until it reaches a certain speed. it's not wierd, it actually makes sense if you think about it.
If the VSS is showing low or no voltage, the TCS will not engage because the computer doesn't send the command to engage the solenoid until it reaches a certain speed. it's not wierd, it actually makes sense if you think about it.
What I thought was weird was I did not change the full VSS, just the top part of it because I couldnt get the bottom part out.
I acctually own two 92 civics and they both threw the same CEL #17(VSS) and I changed the top on both of them and it works.
How do I get the bottom part out??..
I acctually own two 92 civics and they both threw the same CEL #17(VSS) and I changed the top on both of them and it works.
How do I get the bottom part out??..
it should come out with a little persuasion. it's tightly meshed with a gear on the differential so sometimes it's hard to get out. the reason you only had to change the top part is because the VSS gear is fine. what's messed up are the actual electronics inside of the VSS.
i was going to say VSS
i jumped the wires to cut the signal on purpose on my 93 auto turbo i had. basically used a switch to kick the OD on and off for the track.
the bottom half is mechanical if i remember right, most VSS problems are in the top half, connections. although i do normally always just replace the whole unit.
i jumped the wires to cut the signal on purpose on my 93 auto turbo i had. basically used a switch to kick the OD on and off for the track.
the bottom half is mechanical if i remember right, most VSS problems are in the top half, connections. although i do normally always just replace the whole unit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




