boost but no power
I have a lack of power from my car. at idle it runs rough for a period of 5-10 seconds then kicks in normal. it does this randomly. also as i am driving, it has a total loss of power. my gauge shows 8 psi, but no power like it was before. normal driving conditions, it bogs down also. could this possible be a cap and rotor issue. then again my plugs look normal.
possible vacuum leak? tried the starting fluid test but no rev up's. anyone experience this?
possible vacuum leak? tried the starting fluid test but no rev up's. anyone experience this?
no wb, but if i am running rich, wouldn't my spark plugs be covered in carbon, or black soot. i pulled them tonight and checked them out, they are the normal greyish color? thanks for the qwik reply
any um, smoke? Might wanna do a leakdown or comrpession check.
maybe a leak at the intake manifold gasket? This would show your boost gauge 8psi (depending on where the source is) But my money is on a vac leak, or you're compressing the crankcase/valve area due to a bad valve or something.
maybe a leak at the intake manifold gasket? This would show your boost gauge 8psi (depending on where the source is) But my money is on a vac leak, or you're compressing the crankcase/valve area due to a bad valve or something.
Compression is consistent all the way across, no smoke. I was leaning toward the intake manifold gasket, only because it is stock and could rupture very easy under repetitive racing, or am I mistaken?
You can have a boost leak before your manifold and still register b00st. I had my charge pipe pop off and I was running 15 psi at the time it still made 11psi but was super rich. Check for ripped couplers as well . Go out and do a pull and immediately pull your plugs and see if there black. I would most deffinetly get WB as well helps a lot with trouble shooting.
i had the same concept about the plugs and they were that same grayish color. having a boost leak would not cause it to idle rough for 5 -10 seconds off and on would it. the boost leak would only create the problem under boost conditions, or would it be for all rpm ranges. the lack of power is during all rpms.
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It would run rough because the ECU is adding fuel for 8psi of boost but its not getting the CFM. Thus it runs rich causing it too bog and then you have retarded timing. What were your compression results. Is this a stock motor are you running vents w/ a catchcan. And is there any smoke? while under acceleration.
I have a 98 ex coupe,
b18c1
forged internals
race engineering valves, springs, etc
hondata s200
stock map
walbro 255
stock ignition
t3/t4 precision turbo
the car ran great until after a day of hard racing. no smoke under any condition. distributor cap is iffy, its about time to replace it anyways, but that wouldn't cause my problems would it? i am not real up to speed on the catch can, if you are refering to the canister on teh firewall then yes i am
b18c1
forged internals
race engineering valves, springs, etc
hondata s200
stock map
walbro 255
stock ignition
t3/t4 precision turbo
the car ran great until after a day of hard racing. no smoke under any condition. distributor cap is iffy, its about time to replace it anyways, but that wouldn't cause my problems would it? i am not real up to speed on the catch can, if you are refering to the canister on teh firewall then yes i am
plugs are brand new, ngk BPRC7es, wires are brand new, dizzy is fairly old, about 3 years. teh cap and rotor have never been replaced by me, i bought the dizzy used off off the internet.
I put a new cap on it and the car pulls really good when it hits vtech. but anything before that feels real sluggish. when the car warms up is when it starts running like crap. I am still leaning to put a new distributor in there, only because it feels like the spark is weak and i do not have a spark tester.
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