should i go LS VTEC
There is no set amount of power for a LS/Vtec. You need the head, ecu that you have to get tuned, and the conversion kit. That is the bare minimum. Go here for the rest https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1812388
id recomend 'LS VTEC" yes/// not ls vtech thats my cordless phone lolnah bro jp ...
but ls vtec if built right is pretty reliable...
if u could get ur self a gsr block...
throw a ctr head on it...runs like butterrrr
but ls vtec if built right is pretty reliable...
if u could get ur self a gsr block...
throw a ctr head on it...runs like butterrrr
I did the ls/vtec and its not worth it. I thought I could just slap on a new head and call it a day. I ended up having to bring the car to a shop and it took them 9 months to finish. THe project ended up costing around $7k. Had to replace the pistons with high compression pistons, get your rods shot peened, new intake manifold, dizzy, vtec solenoid, idle control valve, new ecu,headers, and some work at the machine shop. Your compression is going to be arround 11:1 which means your gas mileage is going to suck. You also will have to run premium fuel, and your car will not run right unless you let the car warm up for a couple minutes.
After I got the car back the engine shook violently, and had to get new motor mounts.
Do yourself a favor and just buy a type R engine and tranny, I wish I did.
After I got the car back the engine shook violently, and had to get new motor mounts.
Do yourself a favor and just buy a type R engine and tranny, I wish I did.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fliped182 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did the ls/vtec and its not worth it. I thought I could just slap on a new head and call it a day. I ended up having to bring the car to a shop and it took them 9 months to finish. THe project ended up costing around $7k. Had to replace the pistons with high compression pistons, get your rods shot peened, new intake manifold, dizzy, vtec solenoid, idle control valve, new ecu,headers, and some work at the machine shop. Your compression is going to be arround 11:1 which means your gas mileage is going to suck. You also will have to run premium fuel, and your car will not run right unless you let the car warm up for a couple minutes.
After I got the car back the engine shook violently, and had to get new motor mounts.
Do yourself a favor and just buy a type R engine and tranny, I wish I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess some people learn the hard way. If done correctly, all your problems you've encountered can be easily avoidable. My LSV setup runs like a champ. I mash on it everyday too. No CEL's, No erratic idle, & purrs like a kitten.
After I got the car back the engine shook violently, and had to get new motor mounts.
Do yourself a favor and just buy a type R engine and tranny, I wish I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess some people learn the hard way. If done correctly, all your problems you've encountered can be easily avoidable. My LSV setup runs like a champ. I mash on it everyday too. No CEL's, No erratic idle, & purrs like a kitten.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fliped182 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did the ls/vtec and its not worth it. I thought I could just slap on a new head and call it a day. I ended up having to bring the car to a shop and it took them 9 months to finish. THe project ended up costing around $7k. Had to replace the pistons with high compression pistons, get your rods shot peened, new intake manifold, dizzy, vtec solenoid, idle control valve, new ecu,headers, and some work at the machine shop. Your compression is going to be arround 11:1 which means your gas mileage is going to suck. You also will have to run premium fuel, and your car will not run right unless you let the car warm up for a couple minutes.
After I got the car back the engine shook violently, and had to get new motor mounts.
Do yourself a favor and just buy a type R engine and tranny, I wish I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. If it took them 9 months to finish that's a POS shop.
2. 7K for LS/Vtec, you got served, should have done the labor yourself
3. The Rods don't NEED to be shot peened
4. With a good tune you can get better gas mileage than before the build
5. The car can run smooth like stock if it's put together and tuned properly
6. If your mounts were bad the car would have shaken violently w/ the stock motor also
After I got the car back the engine shook violently, and had to get new motor mounts.
Do yourself a favor and just buy a type R engine and tranny, I wish I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. If it took them 9 months to finish that's a POS shop.
2. 7K for LS/Vtec, you got served, should have done the labor yourself
3. The Rods don't NEED to be shot peened
4. With a good tune you can get better gas mileage than before the build
5. The car can run smooth like stock if it's put together and tuned properly
6. If your mounts were bad the car would have shaken violently w/ the stock motor also
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReallyPoorManTypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id recomend 'LS VTEC" yes/// not ls vtech thats my cordless phone lolnah bro jp ...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha i have that phone too
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha i have that phone too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P’cola GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a gsr block and type-r head and pistons, and you'll have a type-r thats stamped b18c1
trust me when i say it runs strong</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure it may run strong but does it run reliable!?
trust me when i say it runs strong</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure it may run strong but does it run reliable!?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mcdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sure it may run strong but does it run reliable!?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
drive it everyday and just beat a sc Gt mustang the other day on type-r throttle body and manifold.
Sure it may run strong but does it run reliable!?
</TD></TR></TABLE>drive it everyday and just beat a sc Gt mustang the other day on type-r throttle body and manifold.
IVE HAD MY SETUP FOR ABOUT 9 MONTHS STILL RUNNING THE SAME AS WHEN I GOT IT..
I GUESS IM JUST LUCKY..ALL I HAD WAS VALVE TERAIN AN ITS BEEN GOOD I RACE IT EVERY WEEKEND,..
LOL
I GUESS IM JUST LUCKY..ALL I HAD WAS VALVE TERAIN AN ITS BEEN GOOD I RACE IT EVERY WEEKEND,..
LOL
My LS/V is great, if you didn't know what you were looking for, you'd think it was factory. I'll probably swap the bottom end for a b18c1 or c5 bottom. I don't like sweatin' it everytime I approach 7.5K. I'd recomment it to anyone, it is the cheapest way to add more power besides nitrous (if you know what you're doing) B16 heads are everywhere, LS/V's are commonplace. All the mystery has been taken out of building them.
For the guy who spent 9 months and 7k building one, you could have built an entire car for that. It sounds like you got taken for a ride. It's really not much more work than changing a head gasket.
For the guy who spent 9 months and 7k building one, you could have built an entire car for that. It sounds like you got taken for a ride. It's really not much more work than changing a head gasket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P’cola GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
drive it everyday and just beat a sc Gt mustang the other day on type-r throttle body and manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did he know you guys were racing? I really doubt you took out a blown GT with basically a stock type R, unless the driver miss-shifted or some other malfunction occured
drive it everyday and just beat a sc Gt mustang the other day on type-r throttle body and manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did he know you guys were racing? I really doubt you took out a blown GT with basically a stock type R, unless the driver miss-shifted or some other malfunction occured
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